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Rough Idle

Discussion in 'Engine & Performance' started by ajspellm, Dec 7, 2009.

  1. brewski

    brewski Member

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    Rought at warm idle

    So I was pretty confident that a plug and coil pack change would be the fix, and took it in...to...the...dealer.

    Rather than just swap out those items, they wanted to run tests.

    4 days later I'm being told maybe VCTs or that the engine is about to die.

    87,000 miles and the engine is about to die?

    Thoughts?
     
  2. 01yellerCobra

    01yellerCobra Full Access Members

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    Find another place to take it. VCT's are loud when they go. And they never caused an idle issue on our car.
     
  3. brewski

    brewski Member

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    Thanks, good to know.
     
  4. brewski

    brewski Member

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    Codes

    Well, I haven't had a chance to take it elsewhere yet, but I did get a code reader.
    Stored coded
    P0341
    P0346
    Pending codes
    P0012
    P0022

    All of these seem to revolve around cam position sensors.

    Not sure what these mean, but...
     
  5. ExplorerTom

    ExplorerTom Full Access Members

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    Where does the PCV go into at the back of the motor? How do you change the hose? Do you need to remove the throttle body?

    While doing my spark plugs, I was a little rough with mine. I don't know for sure it it's leaking, but I get some light surging while accelerating. Seems to idle fine.

    No codes thrown or stored so far.

    The valve itself seemed to jiggle around just fine.
     
  6. steelnewfie

    steelnewfie Full Access Members

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    Realize poster has solved re cleaning IAC. My 2cents on idle.

    VCT's are cheap and easy to replace on 1st and 2nd gens. Do replace them on higher mileage units.

    First place to go when you have decent miles and idle issues and the dreaded rumble strip or mild misfire/OD shifting issues.... Is coils and plugs. Replace them all as a set, with OEM Motocraft parts (concensus seems to say). It will save you quite the headache. Torque them down good. They sometimes come loose. Yes it's expensive but worth the cash in the long run.

    Second place to go (and I don't see many of you looking here) is the cats. The catalytic converters on 5.4 powertrains get destroyed under normal operation, let alone a (commonly) misfiring one. Once I gutted my cats / replaced with new/high flow the difference was phenomenal in terms of just driveability. Power, torque, huge fuel economy difference. It was contributing to the variety of misfire codes along with random coil plug issues. If you have a unit with I'd say 125K+ I'd get new cats. The difference is incredible. And have a look at your old ones. There were little tiny f-kin pinholes left for airflow. The unit could not breathe. Caused all kinds of fkery. Swap or clean your cats. Same time you do your plugs and coils if you want to do justice to your truck.

    If you think you have fuel problems... Sending unit on gen2's guaranteed to fail especially in colder climates. Fuel filters get dirty fast as well. Contributes to idle flutter. Also loose manifold could cause the 0174 and others I saw when unit goes out of mix trying to compensate. Clean Mass Airflow Sensor as well, could make a difference.

    Don't pop your valve covers to fool with Cam phasers until all the above complete. Chances are you will do an expensive timing and phaser job that may not yet be required. Extremely difficult to diagnose even at dealerships. Best money is coils, plugs, cats. Work up from there. My two cents.
     

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