Service Engine Soon light

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djhl

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Yes to both above posts by johnboneske. Thanks for picture. That's the valve. Will concentrate on looking more closely at that line. And will be trying to get a smoke generator. But should that green fitting have some looseness? I can rock it a bit on the valve body's shaft, whereas cannot move the white fitting. As I said that line looks newer than others in car - ID numbers are bright and shiny. Interestingly I see my car has the line over to engine routed differently than yours. So maybe there was some "repair" done by previous owner just before he sold it to me. Thinking out of the box; if I wrapped that line (its only about 20 inches) with tape would that work as a temp fix if there were a leak in that line?
 

johnboneske

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Yes, it has some looseness. If you wrap it with electrical tape if you find a hole in it, it will work for temporary.
 
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djhl

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Can't find smoke machine on-island. The picture is exactly the valve and green colored fitting. Did wrap the hose and fitting with some tape. Took two tries. Really hard to reach for me. Tape seems to be taking tighter shape, either there was a fair vacuum leak or the engine heat is causing the tape to shrink some. In any case SES light has not returned, and code reader says no vacuum sys leak. Have driven car four or five times. Will keep an eye on. Thanks for help from all.
 

Plati

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johnboneske

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I agree, always use Scotch 33 tape on stuff that matters alot. Otherwise to hold stuff together the best is the cheap stuff from Harbor freight. Cheap, kinda thin but is rubbery.
 
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djhl

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Searched the local auto shops and no smoke machine to buy, except a big/complex one for many dollars.
Wrapped fitting and hose with electrical tape, and cleared the code with scanner. Have driven car many times now. That evap leak code has not reappeared on scanner. Tested many times. Clean engine, no codes on the "DTI" menu of scanner. But when call up the emissions menu I always seen to get the EVAP "not ready" code. Have I "locked out" that EVAP leak code when I deleted it? Per my manual I have to conduct 3 (or 5) "drive cycles" for the emissions "Monitor" to reset. Anybody know what a "drive cycle" is defined as on this 2002 5.4? Never get above 50mph here, so could I never do a "drive cycle"?
 

grantpa

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All great suggestions. Just be aware that "some" AutoZone employees will try to "diagnose" your DTC to sell you a COP or whatever. I'd NOT buy anything until you've researched the code(s) and the remedies.
 

1955moose

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On top of what Grandpa said, Papa moose says you can build your own smoke machine. Or pay a reasonable shop to do it for you. These SUVs have a buttload of vacuum hoses that can be a bear to find a leak old school spraying way. A smoker rears it's ugly vacuum leaking head straight away as they say in England. Remember tape is like a band-aid, you still have to stitch up the wound!

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk
 

Tonyray

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The hose can be bought on Amazon. search
Genuine Ford F75Z-9D289-AA Fuel Vapor Separator Hose Assembly.
But it's $58.99
 

BRIANGEE

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The evap monitor is usually the last of the drive cycle monitors to complete. It can take many trips and the criteria are many. You have to have at least a 1/4 of a tank of gas or the test will not run and then it's looking for different driving behavior, one of which is a constant 10 - 15 minute cruise at around 50-65 mph (don't quote me on it exactly = going off memory).

You can probably google the criteria - I know it's in the factory service manual (not the owner's manual). I believe you said earlier you don't have the roads or something to drive 50MPH on and if this is the case that might be part of the problem for that drive cycle monitor not being able to complete. But the drive cycle monitors do not light the check engine light - it's trouble codes that do that.

Also, to answer your earlier question about the green hose: yes, it should be able to swivel - it's a quick disconnect. It should have some amount of spin to it. It still seals that way. You can always give it a firm push to make sure it's seated though. I believe you could also just disconnect it from the intake and put vacuum or pressure to it to see if it's been compromised.
 
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