gixer2000
Retrofit or Bust
Caps dump significantly faster when shorted but not everyone carries around a jumper. So whatever works to get rolling again
Stuck at gas station truck won’t start
- Thread starter JExpedition07
- Start date
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See and there is my issue with that process. It is shorting the circuit out instead of just drawing the caps down.
More and more of the inner workings of our vehicles are computer based. Shorting them out, just increases risk of damage.
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Just pulling the power cables and putting them right back on will not do much. Pulling them and completing a circuit, like the headlights, accomplishes the exact same thing as the video above, just can take longer. In my opinion, in a much safer manner.
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I'm struggling to understand. I don't think its your responsibility to teach me but I do appreciate the clarification.
Loki ... You say "leaving a circuit open like the headlights" ... But to me turning the headlights on is closing not open. An open switch is one that is not connected, as it is before you turn to ON. So that is confusing me.
I would think a capacitor that keeps power to the memory when the battery is disconnected ... Would have a + side connected the positive terminal of the battery. The other side of the cap would be to ground. So in normal conditions the cap would charge up and stay there. In the video ... That charge gets drained off to ground or the other side of the cap (same thing). I think that's what's going on there, the cap gets all its voltage drained off. Its really charge but that charge results in a voltage across the cap plus and ground sides.
In the end, JE7 proved your method works! And no jumper needed and low risk. I'm guessing in your method the light drains the charge off that cap just like in the video.
Unfortunately I over think everything. When I had my new battery put in recently, the guy talked about how things can go wrong and you need to go to the dealer to get reflashed on some of the new vehicles. Don't they use a saver tool or something like that? I was led to believe that even changing a battery can be complicated these days.
So need to reset computers by draining KAM but that can cause a bunch of side effects?
Loki ... You say "leaving a circuit open like the headlights" ... But to me turning the headlights on is closing not open. An open switch is one that is not connected, as it is before you turn to ON. So that is confusing me.
I would think a capacitor that keeps power to the memory when the battery is disconnected ... Would have a + side connected the positive terminal of the battery. The other side of the cap would be to ground. So in normal conditions the cap would charge up and stay there. In the video ... That charge gets drained off to ground or the other side of the cap (same thing). I think that's what's going on there, the cap gets all its voltage drained off. Its really charge but that charge results in a voltage across the cap plus and ground sides.
In the end, JE7 proved your method works! And no jumper needed and low risk. I'm guessing in your method the light drains the charge off that cap just like in the video.
Unfortunately I over think everything. When I had my new battery put in recently, the guy talked about how things can go wrong and you need to go to the dealer to get reflashed on some of the new vehicles. Don't they use a saver tool or something like that? I was led to believe that even changing a battery can be complicated these days.
So need to reset computers by draining KAM but that can cause a bunch of side effects?
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MrS,
Completely Valid on the circuit. You are correct. Closed circuit, or completing the circuit is a more accurate terminology.
A battery change can cause unexpected side effects in modern Computer Controlled vehicles, none that are a real problem. Also if the battery is changed relatively quickly the capacitors aren’t drained and the KAM is not cleared, and very little has to be relearned, if any.
I have been programming on cars since I got rid of my 76 Nova and went to my first electronically controlled fuel injected car. That happened to be a Geo Storm, Yes a geo. It had a Lotus designed, Isuzu manufactured 4 cylinder, and could really light the tires with the right tweaks. Nova was terrible on gas, and needed something dependable to run back and forth to college.
When programming I learned the trick I told J07 to do. Sometimes it was needed to get things to behave like they are supposed to. I have never used the Jumper trick, and don’t plan to in the future. I have used the method I laid out on My Old 250, and many VW’s when I used to change tunes to get them to relearn shift stragedies, and forget what it previously knew. It works, as proven today.
No need to do this unless you are experiencing a problem. I have used it to help a friend with a Dodge 2500 that was having rough shifting. Disconnected the battery, left HeadLights on, let it sit, we had a Beer. Came back after a bit, connected everything back up, started up and went for a nice slow drive around the area. Now his random hard shifting has gone away. He uses a programmer, and had done a bunch of changing of the tunes recently. I think that got the Trans out of whack.
Have a great rest of ya’lls evening!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Completely Valid on the circuit. You are correct. Closed circuit, or completing the circuit is a more accurate terminology.
A battery change can cause unexpected side effects in modern Computer Controlled vehicles, none that are a real problem. Also if the battery is changed relatively quickly the capacitors aren’t drained and the KAM is not cleared, and very little has to be relearned, if any.
I have been programming on cars since I got rid of my 76 Nova and went to my first electronically controlled fuel injected car. That happened to be a Geo Storm, Yes a geo. It had a Lotus designed, Isuzu manufactured 4 cylinder, and could really light the tires with the right tweaks. Nova was terrible on gas, and needed something dependable to run back and forth to college.
When programming I learned the trick I told J07 to do. Sometimes it was needed to get things to behave like they are supposed to. I have never used the Jumper trick, and don’t plan to in the future. I have used the method I laid out on My Old 250, and many VW’s when I used to change tunes to get them to relearn shift stragedies, and forget what it previously knew. It works, as proven today.
No need to do this unless you are experiencing a problem. I have used it to help a friend with a Dodge 2500 that was having rough shifting. Disconnected the battery, left HeadLights on, let it sit, we had a Beer. Came back after a bit, connected everything back up, started up and went for a nice slow drive around the area. Now his random hard shifting has gone away. He uses a programmer, and had done a bunch of changing of the tunes recently. I think that got the Trans out of whack.
Have a great rest of ya’lls evening!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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Nice! This will be a great trick to keep in my toolbag. I wonder if JE7 did the headlights thing? He only said he disconnected battery. There's always something consuming power in an Expy so it could work without doing the lights part I guess.
I reconnected the battery once and the horn beeped. Kinda scared me because I was already on edge for battery to explode from a spark.
I reconnected the battery once and the horn beeped. Kinda scared me because I was already on edge for battery to explode from a spark.
OP
OP
I left about every light on I could. I had the interior light switch set to on, headlights on, and door open so puddle lamps I’d assume would draw until the last second too. I’m not much of an electric guru.
OP
OP
Just to update it’s started flawlessly every time since that little episode
Kenomni
Member
Recently I was parked at a store then came out to find the truck would not start. I did some basic checks then asked my wife, who was with me fortunately, for her key. It worked fine and we drove off. The battery in my key died. I replaced the key battery and it works fine now.
OP
OP
So I crawled under the expy this morning to check out where the starter is, I was ready to change it on the fly when this happened. Oh my that would have never happened if that was the issue! Who the hell pays these engineers??
You can’t see the top bolt or access, side bolt looks impossible only one accessible. In fact it looks like you’d have to remove the exhaust manifold and cat to get at the starter. What BS, guess I dodged a bullet LOL. I watched a video of a guy who used like 3 swivels and extensions to get at the top bolt and it barely worked.... holy moly
You can’t see the top bolt or access, side bolt looks impossible only one accessible. In fact it looks like you’d have to remove the exhaust manifold and cat to get at the starter. What BS, guess I dodged a bullet LOL. I watched a video of a guy who used like 3 swivels and extensions to get at the top bolt and it barely worked.... holy moly
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