Suspension Torque Specifications

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MWguns

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Page 4 from "Chiltons Ford pick-ups 97-03 & Expedition/Navigator 97-12"


So when there's a range, is there anything that dictates how high you go?
Personally, i just go with the median of the two numbers depending on what it is. Things like suspension parts, I personally go a few ft lbs under the max number

20171101_041654.jpg
 

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Lol so is the lower shock nut/bolt on a 3rd gen 87.... or 406???


Bit of a difference
 

MWguns

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Lol so is the lower shock nut/bolt on a 3rd gen 87.... or 406???


Bit of a difference
Well "3rd gen" can be considered a handful of years. But being that it is a suspension part, and you cant decide weather 86, 406 or what ever number between the two would be most ideal on a SUSPENSION part.... Might be in your best interest and/or family and friends best interest to just pay the extra few bucks to have the work done at a shop.

But that is your call. :emotions33:
 

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Well "3rd gen" can be considered a handful of years. But being that it is a suspension part, and you cant decide weather 86, 406 or what ever number between the two would be most ideal on a SUSPENSION part.... Might be in your best interest and/or family and friends best interest to just pay the extra few bucks to have the work done at a shop.

But that is your call. :emotions33:

Shops will either:

1) use numbers from published tables if thorough and responsible
2) "eyeball" it --- which is usually very very bad.... but can also be great in the rare cases where your mechanic is extremely experienced, while your published tables are full of shit
 

MWguns

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Shops will either:

1) use numbers from published tables if thorough and responsible
2) "eyeball" it --- which is usually very very bad.... but can also be great in the rare cases where your mechanic is extremely experienced, while your published tables are full of shit

Hell just run 'er on tight with pappys good 'ol impact until the air compressor tank is empty.. If you snap somethin or strip some threads it needed replaced anyways, right? Like the good ol' days. lmao
 

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Hell just run 'er on tight with pappys good 'ol impact until the air compressor tank is empty.. If you snap somethin or strip some threads it needed replaced anyways, right? Like the good ol' days. lmao

Pappys old impact run full-throttle for all applications would either exterminate the stuff that torques to 20-60... or leave the 250-400 stuff liable to fall right out
 

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Well, there needs to be an accurate torque value somewhere out there.

FWIW, there are plenty of reasons to do this work yourself, as opposed to "Might be in your best interest and/or family and friends best interest to just pay the extra few bucks to have the work done at a shop." Even in good shops, things can happen, and I have experienced costly strategic mistakes even in reputable shops....

So, was replacing front and rear wheel bearings (hubs) and shocks in my '16 Expedition, using Motorcraft shocks. Unfortunately, Motorcraft does not market a quick strut for this model, so I am forced to replace the shock separately, with new mounts, insulators, shocks. On the front, the shock attaches to the lower control arm with two bolts through the lower control arm, and even after searching, the most reliable torque value for this shock to lower control arm that I could find was the Chilton value of 406 ft-lb. As I was torquing it to 300 ft-lbs, the bolt sheared off halfway down. Clearly, this smaller bolt is not meant to accommodate a torque of 406 ft-lbs. The rear shock is different, with a single through bolt which will no doubt handle 406 ft-lbs.

As for me, I guess I will trust the lower 86 ft-lb value and LocTite that is listed for the 2nd Generation Expeditions......
 
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