Drew Nicholson
Member
Aloha all,
I just finally got an expedition that is exactly what we wanted (showed up at a dealer right after our new baby so we traded the wrangler for it) and I discovered waze over carplay did not show the correct speed. I did some digging and found suggestions that the Sync 3 update would fix it. I was on 18093, and I discovered some interesting things about the updating that I can't find as definitively noted elsewhere, so I thought I'd get them posted. Basically getting the update in was a total PITA for me.
I followed the Ford instructions exactly and nothing was happening, so I was off and running to investigate. Upfront I'll say I used a USB 3.0 key (because it's better ..., ha ha ha) FYI: The access light on the USB key would flash a few times and then stop. My USB 2.0 key didn't have a light, so that was another reason to start with the USB 3.0 key.
Short answers:
USB: Use a USB 2.0 key. Just do.
WiFi: If you don't have the router in the garage so you get an "excellent" on signal strength, just don't bother. Use the USB route. Use the USB route even if you do have a router in the garage.
1) the Forscan APIM change to activate nav entry while in motion appears to be a region change. The speed limit display changed from North American style signs to Euro style signs. So the first thing I did was take all the APIM settings back to original. This had no effect for me at the time. Still, I'd change it back if you have made this change because I'd hate to have an update do bad things because the system is confused about the regions. I expect it's best to have the region match. I'm sort of glad the update didn't work right away.
2) I kept trying to get the wifi update to work. It would do partial downloads, but they never completed., even though I had "good" signal strength, which the Ford web page is sufficient. I finally put an old router in the garage (I happen to have an ethernet port out there). Then I had "excellent" signal strength. The wifi update ran and completed without having to have the engine running. HOWEVER, the update went to 19025, NOT 20204 which the website gave me. I can report that 19025 solved the carplay problem. I suppose I could have stopped there, but I like wasting my time on technical problems. Ok, not really, but I don't give up so easy.
3) I was thinking about the possibility of a mis-formatted USB key so I used the Cyanlabs tool to prepare the USB key and then put the ford downloads on it (I had a new download now that the system was at 19025). I didn't think that would make a difference, but what the heck. ( I worked at Microsoft for 14 years and did the original port of windows to ARM that is known as Windows RT, so I think I know this sort of ****. I got real familiar with the bit patterns in first few sectors of a disk. )
4) I was thinking I'll try a USB 2.0 key, and I found a couple of clues suggesting it makes a difference. I did that, and removed the "delay" option from the autorun file, and it started updating immediately. So use a USB 2.0 key is my very strong suggestion. Now I'm on 20204.
Along the way I did plenty of two finger resets and master resets, and since I can't return the APIM to it's original state I can't say what the minimum process is. And just use the USB 2.0 key. Trust me.
IF you don't care to trust me, here's a technical explanation/theory. There's probably a software config issue or hardware issue with the USB interface that is screwing up the USB 3.0 signalling, so the USB 2.0 signalling simply works better. I could probably list at least 10 possibilities. I had to deal with this sort of thing when I brought up Windows on a phone in 2003. It was really painful. The fact that USB works as well as it does in any environment is actually amazing from an electrical perspective. Super amazing.
Anyway, I hope this helps other poor schlubs who are trying to find a definitive approach to getting the Sync 3 update to work when there are problems, which I didn't find anywhere.
FYI: No I'm not going to update to sync 3.4. The car is still under factory warranty, so that's a definite no. Plus I know far too much about how these things get made and supported to risk putting an unsupported build on my family car.
Mahalo
I just finally got an expedition that is exactly what we wanted (showed up at a dealer right after our new baby so we traded the wrangler for it) and I discovered waze over carplay did not show the correct speed. I did some digging and found suggestions that the Sync 3 update would fix it. I was on 18093, and I discovered some interesting things about the updating that I can't find as definitively noted elsewhere, so I thought I'd get them posted. Basically getting the update in was a total PITA for me.
I followed the Ford instructions exactly and nothing was happening, so I was off and running to investigate. Upfront I'll say I used a USB 3.0 key (because it's better ..., ha ha ha) FYI: The access light on the USB key would flash a few times and then stop. My USB 2.0 key didn't have a light, so that was another reason to start with the USB 3.0 key.
Short answers:
USB: Use a USB 2.0 key. Just do.
WiFi: If you don't have the router in the garage so you get an "excellent" on signal strength, just don't bother. Use the USB route. Use the USB route even if you do have a router in the garage.
1) the Forscan APIM change to activate nav entry while in motion appears to be a region change. The speed limit display changed from North American style signs to Euro style signs. So the first thing I did was take all the APIM settings back to original. This had no effect for me at the time. Still, I'd change it back if you have made this change because I'd hate to have an update do bad things because the system is confused about the regions. I expect it's best to have the region match. I'm sort of glad the update didn't work right away.
2) I kept trying to get the wifi update to work. It would do partial downloads, but they never completed., even though I had "good" signal strength, which the Ford web page is sufficient. I finally put an old router in the garage (I happen to have an ethernet port out there). Then I had "excellent" signal strength. The wifi update ran and completed without having to have the engine running. HOWEVER, the update went to 19025, NOT 20204 which the website gave me. I can report that 19025 solved the carplay problem. I suppose I could have stopped there, but I like wasting my time on technical problems. Ok, not really, but I don't give up so easy.
3) I was thinking about the possibility of a mis-formatted USB key so I used the Cyanlabs tool to prepare the USB key and then put the ford downloads on it (I had a new download now that the system was at 19025). I didn't think that would make a difference, but what the heck. ( I worked at Microsoft for 14 years and did the original port of windows to ARM that is known as Windows RT, so I think I know this sort of ****. I got real familiar with the bit patterns in first few sectors of a disk. )
4) I was thinking I'll try a USB 2.0 key, and I found a couple of clues suggesting it makes a difference. I did that, and removed the "delay" option from the autorun file, and it started updating immediately. So use a USB 2.0 key is my very strong suggestion. Now I'm on 20204.
Along the way I did plenty of two finger resets and master resets, and since I can't return the APIM to it's original state I can't say what the minimum process is. And just use the USB 2.0 key. Trust me.
IF you don't care to trust me, here's a technical explanation/theory. There's probably a software config issue or hardware issue with the USB interface that is screwing up the USB 3.0 signalling, so the USB 2.0 signalling simply works better. I could probably list at least 10 possibilities. I had to deal with this sort of thing when I brought up Windows on a phone in 2003. It was really painful. The fact that USB works as well as it does in any environment is actually amazing from an electrical perspective. Super amazing.
Anyway, I hope this helps other poor schlubs who are trying to find a definitive approach to getting the Sync 3 update to work when there are problems, which I didn't find anywhere.
FYI: No I'm not going to update to sync 3.4. The car is still under factory warranty, so that's a definite no. Plus I know far too much about how these things get made and supported to risk putting an unsupported build on my family car.
Mahalo
