Ticking in Motor

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Thunderbirdsport

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Motorcraft (or Wix, or Purolator) filters, and full syn oil is all that ever go into my engines, and if you want yours to last, that's what I recommend. I've rebuilt several engines (all Ford) that were ran with fram and cheap oil...two of those were lubed exclusively with trop arctic. That oil isn't fit to be used as fire starter at the brush pile IMHO.

I'm with navi on this....Motorcraft filters are the king. I remember reading an article a few years ago, MC filters are made either by purolator or wix and rebranded. Delco is the same way.

There's also a video, guy had quite a few different brands of filters, cut them all open for comparison. As expected, fram was absolute trash and didn't have the anti drainback, the filter element was crappy paper, and the thing just looked like it was made for pennies.

I had a failed 5.0 that was well known to me (did all the routine stuff on the truck) due to fram/cheap oil. Got a rod knock at 190K, I sourced a good engine from a wrecked truck, owner decided to just spend the extra to rebuild the bad one. Took a couple of new rods and had to have the crank worked on, but once it was done, he agreed to my suggestion of OEM filters and better lube and the truck now has over 300K and runs as strong as the day the new engine was installed. He passed in 2006 and I bought that very truck at the estate sale and gave it to a friend about a year later when his car got backed into at a truck stop and totalled.

I also had a modular engine in a Mark VIII that had some issues with noise, we did some work on it and made some changes and it's been as right as rain since then, going on 5 years now.
In fact, I did brakes and fluids on that car last week.
 

Trainmaster

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Perhaps the Jiff-Lube filters and oil got the best of your engine. Starting each time with no lubrication on the top end will cause the wear you're describing.

Add me to the Thinderbird and Navi advice. Use real Motorcraft filters in these motors.
 
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Ben Marshall

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Ok, did some novice inspecting and...
It’s definitely on the right/passenger side motor area just behind the battery. When I take the cap off the oil fill valve (lack of better term) it’s much louder. Not the dipstick but where you add the oil. I took the cap off just to look and the noise was drastically louder than with the cap on.


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1exped

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Probably rockers like others suggested. Per TSB, ALL of them must be replaced if one is bad. You can check the NHTSB website to get it. The tsb states any 3v engine built before 2016, if any rockers are damaged, replace all. Maybe that is overkill but it is Ford's suggestion.

Eventually it will pop off, if it didn't already. Depending on how/where it lands, there could be lots of carnage(or none, just noise), so take care of it asap.

Not uncommon on high mileage used trucks on a lot. Probably that is when the owner unloads it.
 

Expedition007

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I second the phasers... you can unplug them and see if the noise goes away or changes. 177k seems about when mine was starting unusual noises, I finally did chains, guides, phasers around 225k... all motorcraft parts from dealers around the country were ordered and gathered. Took me two days in the driveway.
 

NolesFan78

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Does it speed up with revs? If so that’s typical roller rocker.

Forgive me for leaning on you about this, but this thread has me worried, since my '14 Expedition is new to my family. I have the ticking most noticeable on the passenger side of the engine. It does speed up as the RPM's increase. Is there a way to fix this that doesn't involve taking the head off? I am just not up for that in this season of life.
 

Jachniw

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I've had exhaust manifold gasket leaks present the same way. Definitely something to dig deeper into.

Agree with this 100%.
Check exhaust manifold bolts. They are known for rusting and popping off. Results in bad seal between manifold and head.

Everyone instantly piles on the rockers and phasers. That's what I was thinking too!

I had the same condition on my 2008 w/135K. Further inspection found broken bolts on the passenger side.

With some run time and heat expansion the noise reduces - but does not go away. Do you notice a slight change after warming up to running temperature?
 
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