Timing chain - bare minimum?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

mkbruin

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2021
Posts
73
Reaction score
28
Location
Indy
My 2008 Expedition EL King Ranch is having a difficult time idling and is throwing codes indicating it needs a timing job.

Backstory: I bought this truck sight unseen from across the country last November for $12,000. It had been advertised as clean title and only 106,000 miles. I had someone local "check it out" and they gave me the thumbs up so I bought it. It was almost two months before I was able to actually pick it up though. After driving it 1,000 miles home it became clear there were issues. After additional research I was able to determine there is AT LEAST 315,000 miles on this body/chassis, engine mileage unknown. The wife wants this thing gone, so I am prepping for sale.

So... I have a $6,000 truck that I paid $12,000 for that needs a timing job. I won't pay $5k for a reman, I won't pay $3k for a sop to do the work, so I am left doing the job myself. The last time I threw a Rockauto cart together I came up with just under $1k worth of parts.

If you were doing the work, what is the bare minimum parts list you would put together?
Just chain/guide/tensioner? Oil pump? VCT Solenoid? Sprockets? Is there a complete list of what *should* be done?

Debating whether to do the work or just sell as-is and let the next owner deal with it...
 

2020FordRaptor

Full Access Members
Joined
Sep 1, 2022
Posts
344
Reaction score
140
Location
Nevada
My 2008 Expedition EL King Ranch is having a difficult time idling and is throwing codes indicating it needs a timing job.

Backstory: I bought this truck sight unseen from across the country last November for $12,000. It had been advertised as clean title and only 106,000 miles. I had someone local "check it out" and they gave me the thumbs up so I bought it. It was almost two months before I was able to actually pick it up though. After driving it 1,000 miles home it became clear there were issues. After additional research I was able to determine there is AT LEAST 315,000 miles on this body/chassis, engine mileage unknown. The wife wants this thing gone, so I am prepping for sale.

So... I have a $6,000 truck that I paid $12,000 for that needs a timing job. I won't pay $5k for a reman, I won't pay $3k for a sop to do the work, so I am left doing the job myself. The last time I threw a Rockauto cart together I came up with just under $1k worth of parts.

If you were doing the work, what is the bare minimum parts list you would put together?
Just chain/guide/tensioner? Oil pump? VCT Solenoid? Sprockets? Is there a complete list of what *should* be done?

Debating whether to do the work or just sell as-is and let the next owner deal with it...
Go back to the seller and say what the heck!
 

rwmorrisonjr

Full Access Members
Joined
Aug 26, 2012
Posts
355
Reaction score
99
Location
Memphis, TN
If you were doing the work, what is the bare minimum parts list you would put together?
Just chain/guide/tensioner? Oil pump? VCT Solenoid? Sprockets? Is there a complete list of what *should* be done?

Debating whether to do the work or just sell as-is and let the next owner deal with it...
Bare minimums are what you listed minus the oil pump (especially if you're going to sell it); add roller followers to the list while you're in there, especially if its ticking loudly. Check out the other threads here and FordTecmakyouloco (sp?) on Youtube for his complete walkthrough of the process.

Doing the work might net you more on the resale than leaving it for the next owner. Dropping ~$1k in parts and 8-10 hours of your labor might gain you $2-3k in this market, so factor that in when making your decision.

I also agree with 2020FordRaptor. Go back to the seller with all the info you found and hammer them for it. Even if you don't get any money back, you'll at least have the satisfaction of ripping apart a shady seller.
 
OP
OP
M

mkbruin

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2021
Posts
73
Reaction score
28
Location
Indy
I also agree with 2020FordRaptor. Go back to the seller with all the info you found and hammer them for it. Even if you don't get any money back, you'll at least have the satisfaction of ripping apart a shady seller.

Title jump, odometer tampering, and sales fraud.

Police wouldn't do anything about it, and I haven't been able to find a lawyer willing to take it (can't find anyone in CO with any experience with this sort of thing).

Still looking into various forms of recourse, but for now I need to maximize the sales price to limit my loss.
 
OP
OP
M

mkbruin

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2021
Posts
73
Reaction score
28
Location
Indy
Bare minimums are what you listed minus the oil pump

Present thinking is that a blown seal on the oil pump is resulting in low oil pressure at idle to the VCT and phasers which is causing the rough idle.
 

rwmorrisonjr

Full Access Members
Joined
Aug 26, 2012
Posts
355
Reaction score
99
Location
Memphis, TN
Present thinking is that a blown seal on the oil pump is resulting in low oil pressure at idle to the VCT and phasers which is causing the rough idle.
Sadly, that's the story of all 5.4 3Vs: the oil pump can't keep up with the flow needs to the passenger side head. It's most likely the pressure plate on the pump is failing and flexing too much to maintain pressure/volume. I'll recant my previous advice and say do the oil pump while you're in there; the extra $150-200 is worth it for possible resale.
 

rwmorrisonjr

Full Access Members
Joined
Aug 26, 2012
Posts
355
Reaction score
99
Location
Memphis, TN
Title jump, odometer tampering, and sales fraud.

Police wouldn't do anything about it, and I haven't been able to find a lawyer willing to take it (can't find anyone in CO with any experience with this sort of thing).

Still looking into various forms of recourse, but for now I need to maximize the sales price to limit my loss.
That sucks, and you are probably stuck in the realm of "caveat emptor". If it's a dealer, at least report them to the Colorado Auto Dealers Association (CADA) and the Colorado Department of Revenue (DOR) (they handle dealer licensing and taxation) as well as the county licensing office where they're located so they're on record for shady/fraudulent sales tactics. Might not help you but maybe steer the next buyer away from them or get their license yanked.
 

2020FordRaptor

Full Access Members
Joined
Sep 1, 2022
Posts
344
Reaction score
140
Location
Nevada
Lawsuit is my only option. So far I have been unable to find an attorney with any experience in civil suits for inter-state vehicle sale fraud and odometer tampering.
Yah, we're not letigus people but I would do the same.
 

KOTU

Member
Joined
May 28, 2014
Posts
23
Reaction score
22
Location
Los Angeles, CA
I just finished a timing job on my '07 Lincoln Navigator L. I followed the steps outlined in the 4-part Ford 5.4L 3v Engine Timing Chain Kit Replacement videos on the FordTechMakuloco YouTube channel. He recommends parts and tools available from Amazon, which I bought. If you are going to replace the water pump too, make sure to measure the pump's hub. Mine is 36mm. Take the opportunity and the time to clean all the individual parts. If you don't have an air compressor, pneumatic impact wrench, and torque wrench(s), get them. Follow other YouTube videos for ways to remove the air from the power steering lines and the radiator. I also replaced the condenser and the refrigerant line seals. Take notes while watching the videos and take a lot of cell phone pictures as you dismantle the parts. Pictures come in handy during re-assembly. ... Take your time have fun and avoid making up new swear words. ... lol
Oh, btw. I removed the bumper, grill, radiator, etc. This made the work easier than leaning over the fender into the engine. I was able to stand right next to the engine. A previous mechanic/owner had used the wrong tool in an attempt to remove the water pump pulley. The bolts were rounded off and torqued tight. I had to cut off the pulley. I bought the new pulley and bolts from Ford.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
53,391
Posts
500,598
Members
46,798
Latest member
geovanni
Top