Transmission Jerks when Coming to Stop

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Keith92487

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Hi I had the same problem on my 2007, ended up being the valve body bridge seal blew out, had the same issues until it completly blew out.

C1BCB55E-6A3C-4B40-981A-B5E1D61F6586.jpeg

B3D530D9-0DEC-4028-9568-F1665D120AAF.jpeg
 

Keith92487

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55E3F41D-C1D4-4A92-8186-C97FCA3A5FDF.jpeg 09BA1698-721F-4B83-A2E8-0FCB621A8457.jpeg 117A4630-BBE1-4BB4-B6C7-51ABA1ED7B05.jpeg I don’t have them on hand, the parts guy at the dealer was able to look them up, I changed out the 4 tootsie roll looking seals too, they had to order them because they were different lengths.

Be careful what you touch on the valve body when you drop it down, they are sensitive to static electricity, especially the harness pins. Wasn’t a very hard job, just take out the bolts that hold the valve body up, not all of them
 
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Hoos95

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View attachment 31270 View attachment 31271 View attachment 31272 I don’t have them on hand, the parts guy at the dealer was able to look them up, I changed out the 4 tootsie roll looking seals too, they had to order them because they were different lengths.

Be careful what you touch on the valve body when you drop it down, they are sensitive to static electricity, especially the harness pins. Wasn’t a very hard job, just take out the bolts that hold the valve body up, not all of them
Thanks for the pics, was able to read the part number on the bridge seal (7F401) and for my specific transmission the part number is 6L2Z-7F401-A.

Will see about removing the pan again and removing the valve body to see if it's broken.
 

Keith92487

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I replaced the O-rings on the harness plug going thru the case, there is videos on YouTube showing how to take it apart
 
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Hoos95

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Local Ford dealer has the valve body bridge seal in stock, so tomorrow I will drop the pan and remove the valve body to see if it's damaged. Are there any posts or videos on removing the valve body? Did a quick search and could not find anything (bolts to remove, torque spec, etc.), want to make sure I do everything properly and don't cause more damage.
 
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Keith92487

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Here is a link to the service manual directions.. tells you which bolts to take out, wish I found that when doing mine lol
http://juchems.com/ServiceManuals/viewfile0eab.pdf?dir=908&viewfile=Main Control.pdf

This should help.. make sure you know what direction the thermostat valve comes out, I pushed mine back in with some Vaseline to hold it up when I put it back together

Also this video gives you a idea how to remove the bulkhead connector

 
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Hoos95

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How did you make out?
The original issue I posted about (jerking when coming to a stop) was solved, that was only from initially dropping the pan and replacing with new fluid and filter. After doing that, the jerking stopped.

As for the shuddering (in the 40-50mph range) there is no change. It worsened when replacing the fluid after dropping the pan and adding 2 bottles of Lucas did not help. I haven’t taken the valve body off to see if the plastic seal is broken. When the transmission acts up in that range (grinds then shudders), I’ve been temporarily turning O/D off and that improves it.
 

Keith92487

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Maybe it’s good then for now, they are pretty heavy duty transmissions I towed a 9000 pound camper thru mountains and it took the beating with ease, when the seal finally failed my wrench light came on and had trouble with it going in reverse that’s the only reason I pulled it apart
 
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