Upgrading B&O sub

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Joe angrisani

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Ps there is a factory grommet under the pass side second row that I ran the 4 gauge through and wasn’t a bastard to get to , I’ll be running a 1/0 in it’s place , and the grommet is large enough, I’ll try to get a pic this weekend
As far as mounting the amp, there’s room under the 3rd row and it won’t interfere folded or up. And a 1200.3 isn’t small,
As far as power recommendations, ( and this may be because I haven’t defeated the dsp yet) , 300 watts rms won’t get it done, truck is big and will eat up 5-600 rms minimum, on the subs. When the B&O and factory head unit are up around 20-22 I’m beginning to lean on that 1200, I’d say probably 65-75% to give you an idea
 

Team_Z

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Sorry to bring up an old thread, has anyone ever done the Polly fill mod that the we did on our F150 subs? That improved the bass some.
 

heatfan4life

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5280tunage

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So I waited and waited for the JL stealth box, and it's finally here. https://www.jlaudio.com/products/sb-f-exped4g-10tw1-car-audio-stealthbox-ford-expedition-94688

Kinda lost interest, so having a custom fiberglass box built that will house two 8's. Will be "steath", and retain my cargo area. Stay tuned for the finished product
Yeah, I saw that was released, but man JL is proud of it, that price was ridiculous. The most expensive stealthbox I ever bought was around $800, this thing is 50% more. I kind of gave up for now too.

Be interested to see what the final product looks like on the custom enclosure. I just hate to lose that space, I use it for hitches and recovery straps, etc.
 

5280tunage

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Ps there is a factory grommet under the pass side second row that I ran the 4 gauge through and wasn’t a bastard to get to , I’ll be running a 1/0 in it’s place , and the grommet is large enough, I’ll try to get a pic this weekend
As far as mounting the amp, there’s room under the 3rd row and it won’t interfere folded or up. And a 1200.3 isn’t small,
As far as power recommendations, ( and this may be because I haven’t defeated the dsp yet) , 300 watts rms won’t get it done, truck is big and will eat up 5-600 rms minimum, on the subs. When the B&O and factory head unit are up around 20-22 I’m beginning to lean on that 1200, I’d say probably 65-75% to give you an idea
When you post a picture of the grommet location (I crawled under this thing and looked and looked and couldn't find one that wasn't "too close" to the exhaust), can you post one of amp mounting location? Is it back closer to the storage tray? I took a small usps box about the size of one of my amps and put it under the third row with the seats up, and when I put the seats down, it definitely crunched the box. Sort of gave up on that location at that point. Suppose there could be differences between the trims but curious how you got it to work.
 

heatfan4life

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Sorry guys for the delay. I wasn’t sure it was gonna work so I just used some stuff I had laying around
I had a pac loc, a JL 1200.1v3, and some kicker comp 15’s in a band pass ( not my intended subs just for now)
I tapped the loc into the l&r inputs to the factory sub amp in the left rear panel. I left the factory B&O sub functioning as it was but just tapped into its input for an output to my JL amp. The rest is obvious as far as connections. The 15’s are crossed over ( lpf set to) about 70 hz , and subsonic filter is at 15 hz, 2 db boost @ 35hz. The loc has a volume knob that I ran up to the center console. All of the factory anc and dsp are un touched. The 15’s fill the void that the factory 10 can’t and just extend the factory systems range. Of course I can turn the knob up and knock signs off buildings but when the gains are at a mature level it actually sounds pretty good. Does it need more, yes but it adds what the factory junk was missing. I’m going to ditch the 15’s, and put a single 13w7 in its place, it’ll need a bit more on the gains but I won’t have lost access to my third row lol
I’ll keep ya’s posted as I add but this was an easy good start. I suspect I’ll upgrade the 10 in the factory sub after the w7, then some 6.5” separates for the front doors and an amp. When I play with circumventing the dsp I’ll keep yas posted.
In summation a good amp and a 10-12” sub is easy to add and makes a huge difference
Absolutely, almost passed out when he told me the price
I had some things stored in there, but never go into it. Hoping to finish it up this week.
Yeah, I saw that was released, but man JL is proud of it, that price was ridiculous. The most expensive stealthbox I ever bought was around $800, this thing is 50% more. I kind of gave up for now too.

Be interested to see what the final product looks like on the custom enclosure. I just hate to lose that space, I use it for hitches and recovery straps, etc.
Absolutely, almost passed out when he told me the price

I had some things stored in there, but never go into it. Hoping to finish it up this week.
 

bstard2001

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Nice finished product, Are you still loving it?? I'm picking up my '23 next Saturday and have some changes in mind with the stereo, and very undecided in which route I wanna go replacing the sub. One option I thought about was the Stealth Box, the other option I wasn't sure how much space there is in the cargo area for a custom enclosure. How deep is the well under the cargo tray area? I know that the space back in the cargo area is somewhat limited so I don't want to take up any space back there with a box. Decisions, Decisions.
 
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