Welp, it finally happened to me.

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blkmonday

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This is what I'm starting to fear as I'm hearing the noises on cold startup. The cost of a rebuilt engine is not far off. What did you decide? Fix..rebuilt or move on?
 
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tofteik

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I went ahead and approved the repair, since the tech did a very thorough inspection inside out and the rest of the vehicle is still in good shape. I just love my baby.
 

BigOleFordFan

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View attachment 86163

Heard weird noise from the engine on one cold morning, the whole car was shaking and got a P0017 code. Still after 200k mile, I'd say I had a good run.
Did you not consider getting a new serpentine belt too, "while they are in there" ? Would be real simple since they are taking everything else off the front of the motor :D
 
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tofteik

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Did you not consider getting a new serpentine belt too, "while they are in there" ? Would be real simple since they are taking everything else off the front of the motor :D
I actually had the belt replaced by the same shop last year so I think mine is still okay, otherwise I'm sure they wouldn't have missed out a chance to take more of my money lol. The only thing that I wish I haven't done was the coolant flush I did in January since all that is going to waste now.
 

BigOleFordFan

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I actually had the belt replaced by the same shop last year so I think mine is still okay, otherwise I'm sure they wouldn't have missed out a chance to take more of my money lol. The only thing that I wish I haven't done was the coolant flush I did in January since all that is going to waste now.
Yea, I don't like throwing good stuff out either, but coolant is not terribly expensive, and in the bigger picture, it's just a small blip in the overall cost, so it's one less thing you have to worry about for a while going forward :D

Here's hopin for a successful rebuild !
 

Gumbyalso

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I have an '11 XLT with 302,000. Had it since new. Phasers have never been touched but I did replace rocker arms and lifters at 250k when I heard a tick. Slight tick now at idle but no codes, runs smooth, gas mileage is about the same as when it was new. At 302k it's only worth about $4,000 so doing the full phaser job + pumps would cost more than it's worth. I hope the phasers hold out. I plan on selling it after the holidays.
 

GaryH

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At 302k it's only worth about $4,000 so doing the full phaser job + pumps would cost more than it's worth. I hope the phasers hold out. I plan on selling it after the holidays.
I hear ya, but how much is it gonna cost to replace the vehicle? At 302k, I guess it's about time anyway.
 

Gumbyalso

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I hear ya, but how much is it gonna cost to replace the vehicle? At 302k, I guess it's about time anyway.
Yeah, it's time. I ran my 2000 Expy EB 5.4L to 386,000 before selling it earlier this year. That old 2V 5.4 was pretty tough. I had it since new and never did any engine work other than wear items like plugs, COPs, PCV, belt, hoses. It burned oil but that was it. Never had a tranny issue either. But this 3V is a different critter. And the hubs, ball joints, tie rod ends are all original. No problems with them now but it's probably a matter of time.
 

ManUpOrShutUp

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I've been expecting mine to need this work done for awhile, but at nearly 221k she's still going. The road salt has eaten up so much of the truck at this point though that I wouldn't put the money into it.
 
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drankinatty

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I second adding the Melling high-volume pump in place of what they've quoted. The Melling pump has been mentioned in various websites for several years when doing this job.

Having just completed this job last weekend, I would 3rd the Mellings 340HV high volume oil pump. Stock pump 18 psi at hot-idle, Mellings pump 30 psi at hot idle. Plenty of volume and pressure to keep the VCT solenoids and cam phasers well-oiled and happy (and silent).

I also don't see replacing the VCT solenoids on the list. You have the valve covers off anyway, for an additional $40 or so, may as well put new VCT solenoids in. (much easier than removing the seal and solenoid with the valve cover on).

That is more than a fair price on labor and parts (presuming Ford parts). Done right, it's a 30-40 hour job. Not a difficult one, but more of a marathon. Doing it with the engine in the car and working beneath the A/C hardlines on the passenger side is an exercise in patients and contortionist maneuvers.

I did mine at 254K miles after the motor ate both plastic guides -- but before the chains fully cut a groove through the front cover :) The engine has never run better or more quietly. Runs like a sewing machine now.

Give serious consideration to the oil pump change while the front cover is off. You don't have to drop the oil pan, so literally, you just stuff the oil pan opening with shop towels to prevent any dropped bolt from rolling rearward, unbolt the 2 bolts holding the oil pickup-tube to the pump, and the 3 bolt holding the pump to the block, slide the old pump out, (prime the new pump with a few ounces of 5w20 or 5w30), slide the new pump on with the flat sides of the crank oriented with the slotted opening in the pump, put the new O-ring on the pickup tube and bolt it back together - Done!

Good luck with your timing chains/phasers job. I was pleasantly surprised with how much better the engine ran and how much quieter it ran. It is much quieter than when bought new in '05 thanks to the new pump.
 
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tofteik

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To update y'all about the situation, I asked the advisor about the pump, he also told me about the lifters and rockers situation, apparently 8 was having some play in them. So I agreed to also upgrade the pump and replace the lifters and followers. This is the total damage.
Screenshot 2025-11-18 130114.png
Screenshot 2025-11-18 130152.png
I love my baby but this is really testing me y'all. :sad72:
 

drankinatty

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Luckily all my roller-followers were in good shape. I probably should have changed them and spent the couple hundred extra for the set, but inspection showed no play in the needle bearings, and they are happily doing their job quietly.

There is more to consider in the cost calculus of timing chain job v. 5 years of car payments. My younger brother (now 57) has gone the newer car route and laments the choice. The gen 1-3 expeditions were well designed (absent the plastic timing chain tensioners and guides...), and while using some 300+ parameters in the PCM, their use of technology was judicious. Beginning in '22 or '23 (?) the mandatory telemetry aspect of new vehicles causes significant privacy concerns.

Some of the big 3 already having been successfully sued for selling customer driving habit data to the insurers without customer consent (it doesn't take much thought to understand how that can adversely affect the rates offered to the unsuspecting customer ...) I'm not an anti-tech zealot either, I enjoy working with embedded systems, circuit design, writing firmware, down to the nitty gritty of comm protocols, waveforms, etc... or soldering the transistors, mosfets, inductors, etc. to perf-board, but it has its place and can be used for both beneficial or nefarious purposes in equal measure. (ET Phoning your driving habits back to the mother-ship is just one example...)

But I digress. With good compression in each of the cylinders, the timing chains, phasers, solenoids and oil pump will provide years of saving those car payments. (replacing roller-followers, and other parts that show a need) Good luck with whatever route you take. One of these days I may be forced to dive into how to disable ET phoning home on a new vehicle, but as long as the A/C is cold, the motor purrs like a kitten and the drive is comfortable, I'm happy to keep the current expeditions rolling along.
 

Dennis_H

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I (well local Ford shop) did mine a year ago at just over 200K and it ran about that. I did timing, one cam, plugs, oil pump. Soon after I also needed to do power steering hoses since they probably got flexed too much for a 15 year old vehicle. It does purr now and will keep it another 100K.
 
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tofteik

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I (well local Ford shop) did mine a year ago at just over 200K and it ran about that. I did timing, one cam, plugs, oil pump. Soon after I also needed to do power steering hoses since they probably got flexed too much for a 15 year old vehicle. It does purr now and will keep it another 100K.
This shop is one of the best in my area so I trust them not screwing me over, my power steering parts are still okay, though I did do a drain and refill last year, so far so good :tongue:. I did have to replace my front struts, overhaul the A/C system, changed spark plugs and coils, flushed rear diff, pads and rotor replaced, all last year so I should be up to date maintenance wise. Only thing I haven't touched is the transmission, but the previous owner flushed it 40k miles ago. I guess that's next on the list.
 
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I had the timing chain tensioners fail at 298k in my 2013. Decided to just put a Jasper rebuilt in it instead of dropping $3500 on a timing job and having 300k miles on the rest of the engine. $12,500 all in with a three year / 100k parts and labor warranty. Runs like it always has and no oil use in the first 10,000 miles.
 
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