What oil/filter do you use?

[Pappy]

Kinda what I figured. My '02 owners manual says

"Only use oils “Certified For Gasoline Engines” by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Use Motorcraft or an equivalent oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153–H." and "WSS-M2C153-H with API Certification
Mark".

I expect that if T6 5W-40 were held only to the 2002 API requirements it would far exceed them. But since these requirements are now 15 years old, they have been refined and tightened. My wife drove this vehicle for most of its life and she used the cheapest oil and filter the quick-change oil place would install. I'm going to go with T6 5W-40 at the next change, assuming it stays readily available and the cost doesn't increase significantly.

I'm also strongly thinking about an Amsoil (or equivalent) dual bypass filter. I'd like to be able to fill the filter before installation, and that can't happen with the stock arrangement, so if I'm going to a remote mount, why not get the benefit of 2 micron filtration? Is there any system comparable to the Amsoil that is of equal or better quality, and less costly?

 

[USMCBuckWild]

Kinda what I figured. My '02 owners manual says

"Only use oils “Certified For Gasoline Engines” by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Use Motorcraft or an equivalent oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153–H." and "WSS-M2C153-H with API Certification
Mark".

I expect that if T6 5W-40 were held only to the 2002 API requirements it would far exceed them. But since these requirements are now 15 years old, they have been refined and tightened. My wife drove this vehicle for most of its life and she used the cheapest oil and filter the quick-change oil place would install. I'm going to go with T6 5W-40 at the next change, assuming it stays readily available and the cost doesn't increase significantly.

I'm also strongly thinking about an Amsoil (or equivalent) dual bypass filter. I'd like to be able to fill the filter before installation, and that can't happen with the stock arrangement, so if I'm going to a remote mount, why not get the benefit of 2 micron filtration? Is there any system comparable to the Amsoil that is of equal or better quality, and less costly?

To my knowledge there are several sub-2 micron filtration systems on the market, but they are designed for other applications.

Could you mod it to make it work? Sure.
Will it be inside the oil pressure requirement of the engine? Don't know.
Don't forget: these engines require a pretty narrow oil pressure range (in RPM spectrum) to run multiple key systems inside the engine. Straying from that range can and almost certainly will result in catastrophic failure.

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

John, their not morons, just being overly cautious. We were so used to changing oil at 3k, that we still feel we have to. Back in the day when all we had was petroleum oil, you had to drop oil at no longer than 3,500. Reason was oil started to break down, and was losing its ability to protect. Full synthetics will go out to 15k, but you still have dirty oil pumping through your motor. I changed my oil/filter last weekend with a tick above 6k. I run Mobil 1 5w30, with a premium fram filter. I know I could go way further, but I do a lot of low mileage stop and go driving. The reason I run fram is my 4x4 is a pain to get filter off, the fram has the rough grippy stuff at the end. 3 years, and 26,000 miles, no issues.


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That's the thing. If you look at any one of the hundreds of oil analyses posted on BITOG, most of which are for conventional oil, they are not losing their ability to protect anywhere near 3K. 5-6K is being cautious. 3K is just being an idiot since there is absolutely no scientific evidence to even suggest that it is beneficial in any way (assuming we are talking about a healthy engine).

 

[08T1]

Bang on buckwild.

 

[USMCBuckWild]

That's the thing. If you look at any one of the hundreds of oil analyses posted on BITOG, most of which are for conventional oil, they are not losing their ability to protect anywhere near 3K. 5-6K is being cautious. 3K is just being an idiot since there is absolutely no scientific evidence to even suggest that it is beneficial in any way (assuming we are talking about a healthy engine).

In the post you quoted, 1955moose clearly stated "Back in the day when all we had was petroleum oil". He was refering to a time well before the oil refinement technology, additives and conditioners added to oil today. I would assume he is talking about the 1950s-1990. Go to API website and look at the changes in oil specs over the years; they show the specs from 1920-Present and explain what is reverse compatible.

Its not fair to compare todays oils (and specs) to the oils available just 15 years ago let alone 40-50 years ago. Yes, BITOG has thousands of UOA available to review. But how many are from 1951-1988 when only conventional 'dino' oil was commercially available and the engine oil had to be changed every 3k?

http://www.api.org/products-and-ser...ies-and-documents/oil-categories#tab_gasoline

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

In the post you quoted, 1955moose clearly stated "Back in the day when all we had was petroleum oil". He was refering to a time well before the oil refinement technology, additives and conditioners added to oil today. I would assume he is talking about the 1950s-1990. Go to API website and look at the changes in oil specs over the years; they show the specs from 1920-Present and explain what is reverse compatible.

Its not fair to compare todays oils (and specs) to the oils available just 15 years ago let alone 40-50 years ago. Yes, BITOG has thousands of UOA available to review. But how many are from 1951-1988 when only conventional 'dino' oil was commercially available and the engine oil had to be changed every 3k?

http://www.api.org/products-and-ser...ies-and-documents/oil-categories#tab_gasoline

"Back in the day when all we had was petroleum oil, you had to drop oil at no longer than 3,500. Reason was oil started to break down, and was losing its ability to protect. Full synthetics will go out to 15k, but you still have dirty oil pumping through your motor. I changed my oil/filter last weekend with a tick above 6k. I run Mobil 1 5w30, with a premium fram filter."

The context of his post implies that he was referring to longer intervals only being viable due to synthetics, especially since he noted that he uses a synthetic and changed it at 6K miles.

 

[USMCBuckWild]

"Back in the day when all we had was petroleum oil, you had to drop oil at no longer than 3,500. Reason was oil started to break down, and was losing its ability to protect. Full synthetics will go out to 15k, but you still have dirty oil pumping through your motor. I changed my oil/filter last weekend with a tick above 6k. I run Mobil 1 5w30, with a premium fram filter."

The context of his post implies that he was referring to longer intervals only being viable due to synthetics, especially since he noted that he uses a synthetic and changed it at 6K miles.

You are correct. He began with "way back when" and then moved on to modern day synthetics. There wasn't a transition leading to the new synthetics train of thought, which is why it was confusing.

Not poking at you, just clarifying the point.

 

[1955moose]

Wow, you guys really know your oils! It's amazing the difference the new oils are making, its a shame manufacturers try new items like variable valve timing, and other items that cause so much grief. Buck wild knows his stuff on oils. I know I could go way further on my oil changes, but as this is my only vehicle, I need to keep it going. Besides it gives me something to do. Good classroom though on the diesel oils, I enjoyed reading it. Moose.

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[USMCBuckWild]

Wow, you guys really know your oils! It's amazing the difference the new oils are making, its a shame manufacturers try new items like variable valve timing, and other items that cause so much grief. Buck wild knows his stuff on oils. I know I could go way further on my oil changes, but as this is my only vehicle, I need to keep it going. Besides it gives me something to do. Good classroom though on the diesel oils, I enjoyed reading it. Moose.

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Thanks for the compliment. I don't "know" my oils, I just know what I have been taught and how to interpret the data provided (.mil spent a lot of money sending me to 5 petroleum schools/courses and allowing me to earn certifications as an API certified petroleum laboratory technician). I'm no expert, the information just makes sense to me. Haha There are others here who know much, much more than me.

It gives me a sense of purpose to utilize my training to help educate others on whats really out there with oils and petroleum products instead of people relying on marketing and info-mercials. I am a very frugal person amd want to ensure my investments (vehicles) last as long as possible, others are in the same situation.

 

[1955moose]

Back in the 70's when I went to Automotive training, we never spent 1 minute on oils. We were learning engines, transmissions, electrical diagnosis. Truth be told it was a 1 year course, all of us used either castrol, Pennzoil, or Valvoline. Amsoil was just coming on the market. We pretty much all used Dino oil, me 20/50 weight, because that's what all the gearheads recommended. Would have been nice to try the synthetics. Motorcycle engines rarely went more than 30k back then, these days most bikes go over 100k, unless you totally trash them. Thanks again good info for our members. Moose.

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