Which Tune? MPT vs Livernois vs 5 Star vs Unleashed

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LokiWolf

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Helps heat dissipate more efficiently especially when towing. They are actually way better than non drilled rotors. I’ve never heard of the holes cracking, but we can the the chemical engineer know it all school is on brake PFA and rotors too now

HaHa. Chemistry Degree, not Chemical Engineering... I have always defended you, but dude you really have a hard time with somebody who might know more than you. I have a few more years under my belt, and have done a lot of things in my 43 years on this planet. Still think of myself as young, and keep doing things and learning.

For clarity, you NEVER talked to ZFG and asked about tuning a 15-17 Expedition on E85. The only Expedition owner other than myself that has talked to Adam in the past few days is MB. I never thought of you as a liar, but it is looking that way.

I agree with you partially on the Drilled Rotors, the cracking does not happen on quality brand drilled rotors. I have seen it a few times, mostly on tracked(Road Race, Solo) cars. Most of the time when the person put really aggressive pads, and didn’t heat cycle the rotor to bed in the pad properly.

Drilled rotors do decrease surface area, and if you don’t also improve the quality of pad under cold braking they can increase stopping distance, the inverse of that is under heavy brake load after multiple stops, they will fade MUCH less. It depends on your use case. Towing when going downhill, a drilled rotor would help keep brakes cooler if you are having to use them a fair amount like SFG said.

Some companies will put less warranty on a drilled rotor than a dimpled or slotted, because it does have a slightly greater risk of cracking. Slight, especially if a quality company.

I typically do slotted or dimpled and slotted for my street vehicles, and drilled for the track cars. That is me. Don’t currently have a Track car. My Dad is still driving Spec Miata’s at 68 and they have to be OEM like solid, so no drilled for him.

Also the whole lock up the wheel thing is BS. Almost any car can lock up wheels at lower speeds. It doesn’t mean better/more aggressive/larger brakes won’t decrease stopping distance. They get you down to lockup quicker and with modern ABS allows you to stop even quicker. There is a diminishing point of return without added grip.



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Sunflowergirl

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HaHa. Chemistry Degree, not Chemical Engineering... I have always defended you, but dude you really have a hard time with somebody who might know more than you. I have a few more years under my belt, and have done a lot of things in my 43 years on this planet. Still think of myself as young, and keep doing things and learning.

For clarity, you NEVER talked to ZFG and asked about tuning a 15-17 Expedition on E85. The only Expedition owner other than myself that has talked to Adam in the past few days is MB. I never thought of you as a liar, but it is looking that way.

I agree with you partially on the Drilled Rotors, the cracking does not happen on quality brand drilled rotors. I have seen it a few times, mostly on tracked(Road Race, Solo) cars. Most of the time when the person put really aggressive pads, and didn’t heat cycle the rotor to bed in the pad properly.

Drilled rotors do decrease surface area, and if you don’t also improve the quality of pad under cold braking they can increase stopping distance, the inverse of that is under heavy brake load after multiple stops, they will fade MUCH less. It depends on your use case. Towing when going downhill, a drilled rotor would help keep brakes cooler if you are having to use them a fair amount like SFG said.

Some companies will put less warranty on a drilled rotor than a dimpled or slotted, because it does have a slightly greater risk of cracking. Slight, especially if a quality company.

I typically do slotted or dimpled and slotted for my street vehicles, and drilled for the track cars. That is me. Don’t currently have a Track car. My Dad is still driving Spec Miata’s at 68 and they have to be OEM like solid, so no drilled for him.

Also the whole lock up the wheel thing is BS. Almost any car can lock up wheels at lower speeds. It doesn’t mean better/more aggressive/larger brakes won’t decrease stopping distance. They get you down to lockup quicker and with modern ABS allows you to stop even quicker. There is a diminishing point of return without added grip.



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I never talked to Adam, someone else answered :****:
 

LokiWolf

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I never talked to Adam, someone else answered :****:

HaHaHaHa!!!

Dude, put the shovel down. When in doubt I guess, double down in the lie and hope nobody calls you on it.

I am calling you on it. ZFG is currently a 1 person shop. Adam is the only one that answers his phone...




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Sunflowergirl

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HaHaHaHa!!!

Dude, put the shovel down. When in doubt I guess, double down in the lie and hope nobody calls you on it.

I am calling you on it. ZFG is currently a 1 person shop. Adam is the only one that answers his phone...




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Oh so now it’s a one person shop doing all those tunes and revisions. Even more of a reason not to use them. It was not Adam who answered the phone, he’s got more people that do dirty work for him in sales
 

LokiWolf

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Oh so now it’s a one person shop doing all those tunes and revisions. Even more of a reason not to use them. It was not Adam who answered the phone, he’s got more people that do dirty work for him in sales

Nope. Again. Wrong. Only person who answers his business number is him. No Dirty work. Keep digging. Just making yourself look bad.

Yep one guy. One guy making great tunes, giving amazing customer service, and making the established shops sweat.


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Sunflowergirl

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Dang you got me.... alright take your ZFG tune on your 4th gen and head on back over to your side. You don’t own a 3rd gen anymore so no reason to be here. Go help out those guys on the other side
 

Sunflowergirl

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Nope. Again. Wrong. Only person who answers his business number is him. No Dirty work. Keep digging. Just making yourself look bad.

Yep one guy. One guy making great tunes, giving amazing customer service, and making the established shops sweat.


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I’ll even refrain from posting on the 4th gen side if it means I don’t have to see posts made by you!
 

LokiWolf

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I’ll even refrain from posting on the 4th gen side if it means I don’t have to see posts made by you!

HaHa...

Let's see if I understand?

I have owned 2 EB powered 3rd Gens(Like You), I was asked by the OP in his original post for my input, I gave intelligent feedback on 3 separate tuning companies, and caught you in a blatant lie to discredit one of those tuners. I even gave you 2 chances to come clean on your blatant straight up lie.

Out of that, you get to the conclusion that I should stay out of the 3rd Gen area? Sure...That makes sense...:rolleyes::banghead: I generally do not comment on 3rd Gen stuff anymore, but was asked. I will continue to post where I can provide valid good info, especially if somebody specifically asks for my input.
 

Sunflowergirl

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HaHa...

Let's see if I understand?

I have owned 2 EB powered 3rd Gens(Like You), I was asked by the OP in his original post for my input, I gave intelligent feedback on 3 separate tuning companies, and caught you in a blatant lie to discredit one of those tuners. I even gave you 2 chances to come clean on your blatant straight up lie.

Out of that, you get to the conclusion that I should stay out of the 3rd Gen area? Sure...That makes sense...:rolleyes::banghead: I generally do not comment on 3rd Gen stuff anymore, but was asked. I will continue to post where I can provide valid good info, especially if somebody specifically asks for my input.
Oh yeah you didn’t know, if you don’t currently own say, a 2019, you are not allowed to post in the 4th gen forum bc ppl get offended. If you don’t own a 2017 you cannot post in the 3rd gen forum bc ppl will get offended. It’s all about what you CURRENTLY own apparently. At least that’s how I see it with a few of these special ppl on here, they don’t care if you own 17 gen 1 Ecoboost, if you currently own a gen 2, better not post in gen 1 side and vice versa
 
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