'new' engine, misfire on cyl 8

Swap coil to a new location. It new code is set, you found your problem. Beware: driving on a misfire will kill your Catalytic Converter(s). Disconnect the fuel injector on misfiring cylinder, if you are forced to drive it.

When I was young, less than 11, baths were an option. Then I discovered girls, and took one everyday! Today its showers everyday! After getting dirty working on a car/truck all-day, nothing feels better than that hot shower!

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okay, so I pulled the plug and the coil pack. I replaced the coil pack on general principles, along with both front wheel bearings. plastic pos's were all messed up - luckily they didn't grenade and my races were fine.

so now with a new coil pack on #8 , it purrs like a kitten and you cannot even tell it is running.

and the vibration from the wheel bearings is gone.

now im preparing for the rest of the coil packs to go bad, since I replaced one.

Actually if you didn't get them wet, you'll probably be OK. Water or coolant seems to be about the only thing that shorts them out. If you hose off again, please cover everything in plastic! Or better still clean by hand with rags and cleaners like simple green.

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Yeah I learned my lesson with that one lol.

Now the negative battery terminal broke.

Man.. I’m having bad terminal luck lately.

Bad luck comes in threes, then done. Between the coil, the bearings, and now the battery cable, your done! Positive things from here.

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Hopefully the gas mileage will settle down a bit. I topped it off yesterday and it went from full to 3/4.... in 45 miles. Almost all freeway.

I’m gonna gather a look at the pcv and iat once I do the terminal, clean the MAF, and if all else fails I’ll hook up the Solus to it and get the live graphs

While your at it, yank the front plug on the drivers and pass side and see if they look new. If they do, yank number 4 and see if it looks new. Alot of shops will do a shoddy tune up and only do the plugs that are easy to get to. When u have the front 2 plugs out, look at the boots. If they look brown, flared out on the ends, or feel sticky you should change them. If u need new ones autozone had a full kit with 8 boots and springs. If i recall its duralast part number 90003. If you do.replace the boots, get a tube of dielectric grease like what was mentioned earlier, and put a glob on the end that goes on top of the plug, and smear some around the little sealing ring on the boost about an inch below where it pushes onto the coil. Also, if you are going to replace the springs, use a pair of gloves and yank them off the bottom of the coil. Check the terminal where thr spring pushes onto. If theres any green stuff or corrosion, get a small flathead screw driver and gently scrap it off to clean the metal. What i found makes it very easy to install the springs is take a 13mm 3/8 shallow socket, put the 13mm end over the end of the coil and insert the spring thru the end that your ratchet goes on. Push down and youll feel it grab onto the terminal. The socket prevents the spring from cocking sideways and assures that you can push it onto the coil far enough. If you dont replace them, make sure all the boots are good, and all the plugs are new as well as running some injector cleaner on your next fill up, and clean the maf sensor. Also make sure ur air filter is clean. If you do that your mileage should increase signifigantly.

Hope this helps,

Andy

NEVER wash a Triton V8... liquids under the hood can kill both coils and injectors easily on Ford 8 cylinders

and be reaaaaally watchful for coolant leaks or spills (that stuff refuses to evaporate)

plugs were all good. after checking mileage out of a few tanks, I'm now getting 18.5MPG. I DEFINITELY cannot complain about that. Did the GOTTS mod and cleaned the MAF. Still need to clean the IAC, as it sounds like there is a very loud hum at idle that goes away once I give it gas.

I know I need to cut the hoses to flush the heater core, but I am putting that off as long as I can, since its such a PITA.