1998 limited slip

[Lightnig]

 

[Captain Morgan]

Thanks for the diagrams and info.

I changed clothes and crawled under in the dark, took pics with my phone by pointing in that general direction.

EXPEDITION PICS Slideshow by Captain_Morgan_2600 | Photobucket

To me, it looks like I have a 9.75 whatever-its-called by the shape, larger on the left with a slight dip at the bottom.



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[FordandPolaris]

Yes you have the 9.75. Probably the best route is to look for a LSD swap-in or another axle out of an Expy (or F-150 from same model years) that had the LSD. The only thing with doing an F-150 axle is you would have to fabricate the linkage for the lower and upper control arms, since I am pretty sure they were set up a little different.

 

[Captain Morgan]

THANKS!

The code on the pumkin is:

0 5 930 E-1
3 31 9 75 8825


S930-E Expedition 97-99 Navigator 98-99 3.31 9.75 NL


So something like Dana Trac Lok would work?

Are there certain name brands that are good, but not ARB prices?



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[tonydiv]

If you're going to go the new route, then the Dana or this

G2 Axle and Gear Part 45-2012 - Ford 9.75in. Limited Slip - 4 Wheel Parts

Would be a good choice.

They are both 'on road friendly' units that hold up to some pretty good punishment. Neither are going to work as well off road as a locker, but they are also half to 2/3rds the price of those units. You can spend a few bucks more for an Auburn Limited slip, but to be honest, I don't think that you'd notice a big difference.

You may be able to save a few bucks by going used, but you'll probably still have to rebuild the used diff (new clutches).

 

[Captain Morgan]

You could also look at this as an opportunity to change the gear ratios to give the truck some more pep. A jump to 4.11 to 4.30 ish gears would make the truck run and shift more like it did when the stock size rubber was on it.

Mine had 3.73 gears in it stock and I was going to bump up to 4.56, running 35 inch rubber.

If I did this, it would require buying new gears in addition to the differential, and I would need to replace the gears ob both the front and back right?

Maybe this is better served as a 2 step process?

I'm not a crawler, but I do see some rugged country and want to have better traction (at least rear, i have no idea about front) in snow and ice with my big honkin snow chains. I think an average part should do as I doubt I'll keep this truck for too many years. I don't even drive it to work any longer, I have a cushy 10 minute bus commute so I have to leave the battery on a charger. When I drive it, it's to hop down the road a whoppin 2 miles to a burger joint etc.


Thanks again!


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[Captain Morgan]

I talked with a guy at 4wheelparts, and narrowed down some things.

Lockers are out.

Clutch limited slips are less reliable for larger tires than the all gear diffs.

If I go all gear and no clutch, the Detroit - Ford 9.75in. 34 Spline TrueTrac looks like a solid piece.

He suggested that I buy the gears with the diff as a kit to save money, but this is a nice chunk of change!



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[FordandPolaris]

Man for that much money I would just hunt down an LSD used axle.

 

[tonydiv]

Since the labor is basically the same, it's best to do gears and diffs at the same time.

If you do it in stages, you will end up paying double the labor.

Remember, that the only thing that you can put in the front diff is a selectable ($$) locker. That's why so many people keep them 'open'.

 

[Captain Morgan]

Speaking of labor, this isn't something a lay person can\should do?

Requires shims and experienced mojo?

What about just the LSD, is that something a backyard mechanic can do?


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