AvroAero
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Transfer cases are expensive dude so hope you don't end up with any surprises! I never stripped my Tcase but how did the gear that the motor connects to look?
98 expy 4x4 fubar.
- Thread starter 737jet
- Start date
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737jet
Full Access Members
Sorry, I didn't mean it to sound harsh you guys not caring, I just wanted to justify why I'm posting this thread up with up to second updated.
Yeah where I live, you don't need 4x4 at all. Even camping, 285 70 17's are about 32.5 inches in diameter and they never seem to get stuck. It's when I feel like taking a break from the city life, heading to the woods that I feel more cofident that the 4 by is there. Especialy low.
Stealership here in richmond bc were really nice actually. They called every time they thought it would be another hour's labour. They must have had the truck for like 6hours.
They only charged me for one though.
I got the truck back and washed for $131 and they were nice enough to tell me what the culprit was. The 4x4 dash switch.
I find it hard to believe. I tested it myself after at home. You basicly take it out, look at the 4 pins in the connector and measure the resistance between connectors 2 and 3.
switch in 2wd, the resistance between connectors 2 and 3 should be 3700 to 4100 ohms
switch in 4hi, the resistance between connectors 2 and 3 should be 1050 to 1150 ohms.
Switch in 4lo, the resistance between connectors 2 and 3 should be 340 to 380 ohms.
Mine has 1.5 ohms at the most. Switch is easy to get too. You don't even need a tool. Pry off the cover around the stereo/climate control. It should just pop off with the vents.
Disconnect the four wire connector from the back and do the resistance check.
Yeah where I live, you don't need 4x4 at all. Even camping, 285 70 17's are about 32.5 inches in diameter and they never seem to get stuck. It's when I feel like taking a break from the city life, heading to the woods that I feel more cofident that the 4 by is there. Especialy low.
Stealership here in richmond bc were really nice actually. They called every time they thought it would be another hour's labour. They must have had the truck for like 6hours.
They only charged me for one though.
I got the truck back and washed for $131 and they were nice enough to tell me what the culprit was. The 4x4 dash switch.
I find it hard to believe. I tested it myself after at home. You basicly take it out, look at the 4 pins in the connector and measure the resistance between connectors 2 and 3.
switch in 2wd, the resistance between connectors 2 and 3 should be 3700 to 4100 ohms
switch in 4hi, the resistance between connectors 2 and 3 should be 1050 to 1150 ohms.
Switch in 4lo, the resistance between connectors 2 and 3 should be 340 to 380 ohms.
Mine has 1.5 ohms at the most. Switch is easy to get too. You don't even need a tool. Pry off the cover around the stereo/climate control. It should just pop off with the vents.
Disconnect the four wire connector from the back and do the resistance check.
737jet
Full Access Members
Crap. I had the multimeter on the wrong settings. Turns out the switch is okay. I bought a used one anyways, threw it in, no go. Still dead.
It's at ford. They're going to test the switch and if it's okay, they'll give me the money back for diagnostics.
Doesn't matter, gonna have to spend it back anyways because the problem isn't solved yet.
My lock/unlock key doesn;t work now either. They seem to think the battery died in it. Didn't you guys just test the GEM? Doesn't it control the remote?
It's at ford. They're going to test the switch and if it's okay, they'll give me the money back for diagnostics.
Doesn't matter, gonna have to spend it back anyways because the problem isn't solved yet.
My lock/unlock key doesn;t work now either. They seem to think the battery died in it. Didn't you guys just test the GEM? Doesn't it control the remote?
737jet
Full Access Members
Okay, got a call back from ford. Here's the deal so far.......
They said the've worked on it for appx 3 hours and have found a short somewhere in the wiring.
Because they charged me for the misdiagnosis yesterday, they called it even up to now.
They figure another couple hours on monday!
They said the've worked on it for appx 3 hours and have found a short somewhere in the wiring.
Because they charged me for the misdiagnosis yesterday, they called it even up to now.
They figure another couple hours on monday!
737jet
Full Access Members
Yeah man, man hats off to them. I hate shorts. I usually just cut the wire at both ends and lay in another.
In this case, they have to find were the one end is. These wires are a certain color on one end and end up changing on another.
They are close though!!!
In this case, they have to find were the one end is. These wires are a certain color on one end and end up changing on another.
They are close though!!!
737jet
Full Access Members
Gotta call today. not sure what the bill will be yet. Monday will find out.
GEM and the box or something it goes into is shorting according to ford.
GEM and the box or something it goes into is shorting according to ford.
737jet
Full Access Members
So, the Gem and the fusebox or maybe 1 is the culprit. They had it apart and after I looked at the harness to fusebox terminals, I saw the problem. There was green corrosion on the male blades on the fusebox sides.
For those who haven't done this, it's very easy to take this module and fusebox out. Don't think at all that wires and sparks will be everywhere. It's very very simple and the wires are all in a connector.
First, pop off the dash peices beside the steering wheel column
On the left side, there will be one 9/32 screw holding the lower dash panle on. Take that and all of the rest holding that lower dash panel on. Take the e brake release handle and the hood handle off too.
Last, there is a pair of 9/32 screws on the metal just under the fuses. After that panel is off, take off the 4 10mm bolts and nuts around the fuse panel.
You have to look for a tab now. It's on the fuse panel near the bottom of the fuses. It needs to be pushed up while you push the fuse box forward, towards the front bumper.
Once the fuse panel is loose, you'll see the wiring harness. Unclip the ones going to the gem (I used my fingers). For the main harness, there's two 10mm bolts that hold the harness on. Take them off, pull side to side and pop off the harness. This is where you should see some corrosion.
Very easy so far. Now the GEM / Fusebox assy is in front of you. Take off the 3 screws. They'll be phillips head or torx head. Gently pry it out and read the # off the GEM module to replace.
I picked up mine from the wreckers. Can't afford new. Hope it works too. Wreckers don't offer warranty with electrical.
I tried doing it myself to my truck but Ford's tech was off today and they said they'll have it all back together for tomorrow. I figured I'd swap it with a used one as they were going to put it all back together anyways.
I wanted to post pics but not sure if this site will let me.
For those who haven't done this, it's very easy to take this module and fusebox out. Don't think at all that wires and sparks will be everywhere. It's very very simple and the wires are all in a connector.
First, pop off the dash peices beside the steering wheel column
On the left side, there will be one 9/32 screw holding the lower dash panle on. Take that and all of the rest holding that lower dash panel on. Take the e brake release handle and the hood handle off too.
Last, there is a pair of 9/32 screws on the metal just under the fuses. After that panel is off, take off the 4 10mm bolts and nuts around the fuse panel.
You have to look for a tab now. It's on the fuse panel near the bottom of the fuses. It needs to be pushed up while you push the fuse box forward, towards the front bumper.
Once the fuse panel is loose, you'll see the wiring harness. Unclip the ones going to the gem (I used my fingers). For the main harness, there's two 10mm bolts that hold the harness on. Take them off, pull side to side and pop off the harness. This is where you should see some corrosion.
Very easy so far. Now the GEM / Fusebox assy is in front of you. Take off the 3 screws. They'll be phillips head or torx head. Gently pry it out and read the # off the GEM module to replace.
I picked up mine from the wreckers. Can't afford new. Hope it works too. Wreckers don't offer warranty with electrical.
I tried doing it myself to my truck but Ford's tech was off today and they said they'll have it all back together for tomorrow. I figured I'd swap it with a used one as they were going to put it all back together anyways.
I wanted to post pics but not sure if this site will let me.
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737jet
Full Access Members
Okay, bill to figure out it was the gem or fusebox and to put it in was $400.
I figured since they were going to put the old one in anyways, I'd give a used one a shot. It worked. You'ld think that after ford issues a TSB about the common problem being the water leaking onto the fusebox/Gem, the tech's at ford would easily just point it out.
Instead, I get answers like " it's your 4x4 switch" or " Nope, not the GEM, it's a shorted wire" and finaly Yup, it is the either the GEM or the fusebox, better replace both"
If they had just researched ford's tsb, they would have found the problem in a half hour.
The old fusebox/GEM is at work, I'm going to take it apart and repair it. I'm going to take lots of pic's and write a detailed procedure on how to remove, clean and water proof the GEM and fusebox so if anyone else complains about this problem, they will have an accurate fix.
Should have this up in a week.
I figured since they were going to put the old one in anyways, I'd give a used one a shot. It worked. You'ld think that after ford issues a TSB about the common problem being the water leaking onto the fusebox/Gem, the tech's at ford would easily just point it out.
Instead, I get answers like " it's your 4x4 switch" or " Nope, not the GEM, it's a shorted wire" and finaly Yup, it is the either the GEM or the fusebox, better replace both"
If they had just researched ford's tsb, they would have found the problem in a half hour.
The old fusebox/GEM is at work, I'm going to take it apart and repair it. I'm going to take lots of pic's and write a detailed procedure on how to remove, clean and water proof the GEM and fusebox so if anyone else complains about this problem, they will have an accurate fix.
Should have this up in a week.
