Getting Rough idle / Oil Fouled Plugs / No Power / Misfires

[Bommer]

Hello everyone,
I've been a visitor to this board quite a few times for small issues.
I had a look around and couldn't find anything that seemed fully applicable to my current issue.

I have a 2005 Expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4L.
This morning I came to an intersection with red light camera and made a very hard stop to avoid a ticket.
When I came to a full stop the engine started shuddering and I had a lack of acceleration and a solid MIL.
I figured about a block from a parts shop I would limp it over, but the MIL began flashing and I couldn't get past 1000 RPM.

I stopped the truck and checked the oil thinking this could cause the noise and roughness. Oil level was sitting at the bottom of the thatch.

I left the engine off for about 10 minutes, and when I re-started it, the truck idled smooth at ~800RPM then dropped to about 250 RPM when it warmed back up and shuddered like crazy and stalled. (imaginge sitting in a paint shaker with leather seats)

I figured the blinking MIL would be a misfire so I limped it at about 4km/h to the parts shop about 500 meters up the road.

I scanned the codes and received: P0305, P0308, P0307.
I didn't think that 3 coils would go at once, so I tried swapping them with the 1, 2, and 3 cylinders and cleared the codes.

Upon restart I received the same 3 cylinders misfiring (5, 7, 8).

I pulled the plug from cylinder 5 and it was fouled with oil.

I had new plugs anyway so I replaced all 8 (which all had oil on them) and re-started the truck... same shudder, but only misfiring on 5 & 8. After running about 2 minutes I pulled cyl 5 plug and found it already had oil on it.

Then I received: P0011, P0022, P0300, P2196, P0305, P0308

The exhaust during all of this smells very rich and there is quite a bit of water(?) dripping from the tailpipe, there is no scent to the dripping liquid.

So... Anyone else experience anything like this?

I was thinking (and am probably completely wrong) perhaps the hard stop let oil run to the front of the cylinder head and it got sucked into the engine via vacuum line (there is some oil residue in the vacuum line from front passenger valve cover) where it was introduced to the cylinders causing spark plug fouling and misfiring, causing the O2 b1s1 rich reading and possibly, after running the engine a few times, stopping up the catalytic converter as the final code i received was P0420 before I gave up for the day.

Any input is appreciated.

 

[Bommer]

So my brother and I took a look at the truck.

He mentioned that it looks like the entire driver's side of the engine is not firing. (pulling coil wires did not change the idle at all, even when pulling all 4 wires at one time)

He pulled the MAF connector and re-started the truck and the driver's side of the engine began firing again.

I only get the MAF P0102 code and no misfire codes when MAF sensor is disconnected.

Also, from the noises during starting he said that there could be an issue with the VCT on that side, causing the misses and causing the engine to disable the cylinders.

This would explain as well why the engine starts fine, then gets one miss, then starts running like a paint shaker.

I cleaned the cyl 5 plug again and put it back in and ran the engine with MAF disconnected, the plug didn't foul like it had previously so I guess what looked and felt like oil could have been carbon buildup from the misfires mixed with gas.

He mentioned that bad oil pressure could have been causing the issue, but likely if this is the case then all of the driving done previously along with starting the engine during diagnosis could have more or less made this engine a write-off

He told me to bring it into the dealership where he'll work on it for me (my brother's a certified Ford AST).

Also he mentioned a new engine will run about $3500. $4000 installed.

 

[Bommer]

So my brother checked the engine and found no cylinders firing on the left engine bank.
Turns out it was the VCT solenoid.
The old solenoid had no screen left intact and the rubber o-ring was missing.

Replaced and all codes cleared.
I had him set the computer to re-learn since pulling the battery no longer does so.
More low end torque than when I bought it 2 years ago and no more ticking, and that's just one solenoid. May pull the other when I have some time off to inspect/replace it as well.

All in all the $200 - $3500 estimate ended up costing me $235 with tax and an oil change.

I'm just under 200,000km now, lets see if I can get another 100k out of this ride.