Head gasket

[lynn]

2000 5.4 180,000 mile leaking head gasket. I'm debating if its worth the trouble to fix it? how hard is to do?

 

[podsquad]

I have a 1998 EB 5.4(original owner) with an E40D transmission and 337,000 miles and the head gasket has been leaking for probably about 6 years. I first became aware of the leak when the gauge went to H. I bought a thermostat with a check ball so that gas would be able to pass through the thermostat before it opened. I also spray the throttle body once in awhile with some fogging oil with the hope of trying to preserve the gasket from further corrosion. It leaks a small amount of coolant that I have tried to stop. For about a year now I developed an intermittent hard start....which I think I finally figured out. Apparently, when I release the pressure from the radiator cap and burp the upper hose before I shut the truck down the truck never has a hard start on a cold engine. I have toyed with the idea myself of having the head gaskets replaced....and to do the timing chain guides and rusted radiator support at the same time. My mechanic would charge me around $1000 for labor....I would buy the parts. My engine and transmission is all original. It is also time to replace the tires. I usually set a budget for repairs on the truck. I keep the truck for a number of reasons...I could park it anywhere and not care who might scratch or put a dent into it, great for hauling(cargo area) something, insurance is cheap, etc. In answer to your question it comes down to the condition of the truck, how well maintained(oil changes)....and be sure there is a head gasket issue. You might be able to 'milk' the head gasket a bit longer.

 

[Hamfisted]

2000 5.4 180,000 mile leaking head gasket. I'm debating if its worth the trouble to fix it? how hard is to do?

Depends on what you think is hard to do. What mechanical experience / skills do you have? ( Have you ever pulled the heads off or done this type of repair before ? Doesn't sound like it....) What assortment of tools do you have ? How much spare time do you have to do the job? What's the Expy worth to you ? Would you have the heads rebuilt as part of the job ? Is the motor burning any oil ? What's the condition of the rest of the vehicle ? Is water getting into your oil ? Or is it just blowing out the coolant reservoir ? To me, the Expy's not worth much with a blown head gasket, and I can do the work myself. So I would fix it. But everyone's situation is different. A shop would probably charge you between $2000-$3,000 to do the work.







.

 

[Billme]

The fact that the year 2000 model is the most numerous on this site, tells me it will be highly collectible in the coming years..
It’s worth it to me to get mine back in top shape due to the body in very good shape.

 

[lynn]

I bought some time by putting in some head gasket sealer. Surprisingly it worked no more gases in the antifreeze and it actually runs alot better. So when I get the time I'll tear it apart.

 

[MesaGuy]

I would say for the average home mechanic, its a crap ton of work. To do the job you must:
1. Remove the Timing Chain Cover
1a. Remove the Power steering pump (access is tricky and slow, but not hard).
1b. Remove the fan/AC belt.
1c. Remove the Fan assembly (to make room to remove the timing chain cover.)
1d. Remove the Alternator.
1e. Remove the Crank Bolt.
1f. Remove Crank Pulley (Harmonic Balancer) using a puller.
1g. Remove the mid-cover belt tensioner.
1h. Remove the 10-ish bolts holding in the Timing Chain Cover.
1i. Remove the Timing Chain cover.
2. Remove everything off the top of the engine.
2a. Remove the air intake ducting and air filter assembly.
2b. Remove the Throttle Body and decorative cover.
2c. Remove the EGR and associated valves
2d. Remove the vacuum hoses.
2e. Remove the COP (Coil on Plug) coils, one per cylinder.
2f. Remove the heater core feed/return radiator upper hoses. (Block rear valve cover access). HARD.
2g. Reroute and adjust the wiring harness
2h. Remove Valve covers
2ii. Remove the fuel rail.
3. Remove the right and left exhaust manifold. (Unless you know which side you gasket leak is on. Then 1/2)
3a. Remove the oil filler feed tube.
3b. Remove the heated gases tube on the driver's side.
3c. Remove the upper engine mount bolt (blocks access).
3c. Remove the (rusted and decayed) bolts holding on the exhaust manifolds.
3e. Remove and fish-out the exhaust manifold.
4. Remove the air intake manifold.
4a. Remove Throttle body (already did this).
4b. Remove Air Intake mount bolts. (The tricky ones in the back).
4c. Remove the air intake without cracking it at the front in a classic fracture weak spot.
4d. Clean the air intake vacuum check valve (part of PCV system) while the intake is out.
4e. Stuff cloths into the lower intake ports so nothing falls in there.
5. Remove the Timing Chain (and you will have to reset timing positions on the way back in)
5a. Replace the crank bolt into the lower crank
5b. Manually crank the engine using the main crank bolt to position for proper reassembly later.
DUE THIS NOW. For perfect position, there is a tool on amazon. For close, you can eyeball it
based on youtube videos.
5c. Use a special tool for each valve bank to lock the cams into position. Different tool for 2V vs. 3V.
Locks each valve CAM into place, so that its pre-placed when you put it back in. Otherwise, on
reassembly, you have to set the CAMs manually, and you better know what you are doing then.
Using the lock tool, they go back in the way they came out, I recommend, but the tools are pricey
on amazon, .... Around $100-150.
5d Remove lower crank bolt without moving the chain.
5e. Compress the timiing chain against tensioners, and put in check/lock pins.
5f. Remove the timing chain plastic guides. (And while apart, you should replace them.....)
5g. Remove the tensioners. (And inspect, and possibly replace.)
5h. Remove the lower crank gear, and the the timing chain.
6. Drain the radiator (and save the fluid for reuse in a clean container, or else replace radiator fluid.)
6a. When you remove the heads, the channels will fill if you don't drain first. Don't get fluid into
you heads for no reason.
7. Remove the head bolts. (These bolts are TIGHT!!!!!!).
7a. You need a large breaker bar, the 30+ inch size. And maybe a pipe also.
7b. There are a lot of bolts, and you need a good selection of extenders to get around valves.
7c. For reassembly later, YOU MUST have a 200+ ft./lbs torch wrench to torque them to spec.
They have to be torched to spec, or else, it will leak, you engine will come apart, the bolts
might strip (too loose), the bolts might strip on assembly (to tight).
7d. Such a torque wrench is expensive. $100-$150 dollars (or more.)
7e. Loosen, but leave in the last two bolts on each head, one at front and back.
8. Remove the heads
8a. PREPARE. The head surfaces are critical. You cannot drop the head, you cannot put it down and
scratch it, you must be ready AHEAD of time. So, get some cardboard that is clean to put the
heads down on the ground. Get MORE cardboard to rest the heads on during removal at the
front of the bay, e.g., over the radiator.
8b. Remove the already loosened last two head bolts and remove them.
8c. Try to free the head using just your hands. Push pull, but ALWAYS be ready to hold it against
gravity. It it won't free, hit it with a rubber mallet.
8d. Lift the head and valve assembly up, don't drop or put down, move to the prepared cardboard
above the radiator. Have a helper (strong person), move from radiator top to ground.
8e. When lifting, you have to climb up on top of the engine. If doing the whole thing yourself.
Choreograph you moves for lifting, transfering head from engine to radiator top cardboard,
moving yourself, while keeping head balanced and secure, and then lifting from radiator cardboard
and lowering to ground or workbench cardboard.
9. Remove head gaskets.
9a. Use PLASTIC scrapers. You do not want to mar the machined surfaces.
9b. Clean the engine's top of block. Clean everything.
9c. Use a plastic sink pad (3M green pad) to clean it good, no scratches.
10. Replace head gaskets. They are one-shot on replacement. If you blow it, buy another one.
11. Reverse the process.
12. Clean the lower head surfaces.

AA. GOOD TIME TO INSPECT YOU VALVE HEADS AND ASSEMBLY.
BB. I would replace all the ROCKERS!!!
CC. I would replace all the TAPPETS!!!!
DD. I would replace any valves that look bad.
EE. I would actually replace all the valve stems.
FF. I would replace all of the VALVE stem seals!
GG. BEFORE DOING ANY OF THIS HEAD rejuvination, NOTE THE POSITION OF THE CAM in
complete detail! Take a LOT of pictures. When you are doing, you will need to reposition
the CAM back to the EXACT same place.

RE-ASSEMBLY:

13. Replace head, transfer to cardboard on radiator. Get in position above engine. Lift and lower
straight down onto head gasket and studs.
14. Replace two headbolts, loosely fit one front, one back.
15. HEADBOLTS are one-time use. So, YOU NEED TO BUY NEW ONES!!!! (Expensive.)
16. Replace the NEW headbolts and swap out the two temps if you just bought them....
17. Tighten per the FOLD tightening pattern. (Find online, or youtube video).
18. Tighten to to VERY TIGHT, using the TIGHTENING ORDER. Usually 2, or 3 rounds of tightening.
19. Repeat on other head if you removed both heads.
20. Replace the Timing Chain Tensioners if doing so. (Recommended).
21. Replace the Timing Chain Guides (recommended)>
22. Replace the Timing Chain using the guide marks on chain, the upper CAM gears, and the lower crank
gear. Usually have to put the lower gear and chain on together.
23. Double check marks, then release the tensioner lock pins by pulling them.

INTERMEDIATE TEST AND CONFIRMATION:
TT. TEST YOUR REASSEMBLY AT THIS POINT, MANUALLY. Put back in the crank bolt. And manually crank the engine through TWO full rotations of the timing chain. See the lower special colored timing chain mark.
Rotate the crank through one rotation of the chain (e.g. LOTS of ratchets, as the colored mark moves on
through, until it returns to the lower crank gear. Then do it AGAIN (two rototatios of main chain for one rotation of the engine timing cycle!) When done, the colored mark should be back on the lower chain gear mark, and the upper marks should match also. (But not after the FIRST chain rototation, only after TWO!)
If you cannot rotate the engine by hand all the way through, something is MESSED UP, and if you fire it up this way, you will bend a valve, or do something else WORSE. Assuming you test rotation has passed, then complete reassembly as below.
TT-b. Remove the Crank Bolt again, so you can put the cover on in the next step....

24. Install the timing chain cover and bolts.
25. Install air intake manifold.
26. Install the valve covers and valve cover gasket.
27. Install rear vacuum and coolant hoses before throttle body, while access is good.
28. Install throttle body using new gasket.
29. Install exhaust manifolds and exhaust manifold gaskets. (Replace gaskets recommended).
a. Might have to again remove the upper engine mount bolt, then put it back in.
30. Install oil dipstick pipe, make sure oil seal seats properly.
31. Install upper exhaust gases engine venting pipe.
32. Install the fuel rail.
33. Install upper vacuum hoses.
34. Install the COP's and plugs (if you removed the plugs.)
35. Reconnect the wire harness.
36. Install serpentine belt (AC/fan) tensioner
37. Install Alternator.
38. Install power steering pump.
39. Install Harmonic Balancer pulley and crank bolt.
40. Install serpentine belt.
41. Install Fan.
42. Reconnect Radiator hoses.
43. Refill radiator and coolant system.
44. Replace EGR valves, and Power Steering resevoir on top.
45. Reconnect all vaccuum hoses.
46. Double check all electrical connectors.

OPTIONAL ITEMS:
a. Good idea to replace Timing Chain
b. Good idea to replace Timing Chain Cover's oil seal.
c. Good idea to replace Chain Guides.
d. Good idea to place Timing Chain tensioner
e. Good idea to replace rockets and tappets.
f. Good idea to repalce valve stem seals.
g. Good idea to replace worn or horribly fouled valve stems.
h. Replace PCV valve.
i. Replace Exhaust manifold gaskets. (They are reuseable, but but mettle, and compressed)
j. Replace throttle body gasket.
k. Replace valve cover gaskets with new silicone ones.
l. Replace intake manifold gaskets.
m. Replalce the head gasket (the Whole POINT of this.)
n. GREAT IDEA to replace the OIL PUMP with the Timing CHAIN COVER OFF. (YOU have done most of the
WORK, so do the last little bit. On the 3V engines, MUCH BETTER PUMPS available from MELLING. On the 2V, new pumps are fine, but no better than the original.)

MUST REPLACE THE HEAD BOLTS. (If you do not, they CAN crack or break, though UNUSUAL).

So, YES, replacing the HEAD gasket is a lot of work, because you have to take the entire top and front of the engine off.
Professional mechanic in a shop might do most of this work, except the valve cover removal, and then actually take the engine out of the vehicle. And then complete the breakdown listed here with the engine on an engine stand. That' affords much better access and positioning, but is not absolutely necessary. The job can be done "in situ" in the car. Which way you go would depend on if you have an engine hoist and stand that can accomodate the 5.4L V8 or 4.2L V8 engine of the Expedition.

You need a lot of tools for this job, but the noteable expensive/special ones are:
Very large Torque wrench for the retorquing the head bolts.
Smaller torque wrench for other bolts
Positioning tool for crank
Lock tool for valve assembly and camshafts.
Fan bolt thin-head wrench (can be a pain)
heater hose quick disconnect release tool. (Can be done with 90 degree long handle needle nose from HFT)
Large ratchets for turning engine.
Harmonic balancer pulley puller
Universal+7mm socket for removing two of the COP on the V8 engine. (Or else remove fuel rail first.)

I have done the job, at home, three times.
Once, because I didn't manual check it (SO CHECK IT!), and messed/missed the proper the timing chain marks and alignments, and bent a valve when I tested the engine with starter (no fuel). Do do it manually.

Second, to Replace the valve stem and broken rockers that resulted.
Third, to replace one head, because I had damaged the valve seat on one Valve, but missed it the second time, and the engine had no compression on one cylinder as a result. (And I got the head at a junk yard, so I had to do the job 1/2 way (with some cheats) a 4th time on THAT vehcile, to obtain the replacement head.
I am a home shade tree mechanic, self taught (and at that time, not very good, probably up to OK now), who had a pretty goodly amount of tools. I was unemployed and broke at that time, so I had time, and no money, so I did it myself.

I would not recommend most people try this as a money saving adventure. Only if you want to work on cars and learn about how to do it.

 

[Machete]

Your better off buying a used engine from a yard....