Help! Changed my TPS and now it won't crank!

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jay0555

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I changed my TPS and now my 5.4L won't crank. You can hear the relays clicking, but engine won't even turn over. I removed the throttle body changed the TPS and put everything back together. It seems to kill my battery too every time I crank it. So, I have to recharge and try again. Any suggestions?

2011 Ford Expedtion XLT EL
5.4L 3V
140K miles
4x2
 

Plati

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How old is your battery? Is it still good?
Maybe it just choose this week to die?
Similar timing happened to me before ….
 
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jay0555

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i'm getting it tested and will charge it back or get a new one this afternoon. Could it not be even turning over b/c I have the torque specs wrong or gasket leak??? Those are the next 2 things I'm going to check
 

RogerD1959

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F.Y.I. Jay0555, I'm with MrSticker's reply regarding the battery. Besides, you break vehicle ownership tradition, if something else does not need tending to after you fix the part that did.

On the 2015's and newer, so not sure about your 2011, if you replace the battery with a new one, don't forget to reset the battery monitoring system. You typically cant see what is up with it unless you have a scan tool, ELM327 Bluetooth thingy, and software to read and clear fault codes, real time PID reporting, run KOEO and KOER tests, etc. It reads the PID's assigned to the ECM's diagnostic programming code telling you; How long the existing battery has been in the vehicle. What the batteries charge level is. What the, not sure about my wording here, but what the loaded charge state of the battery is. Amount of electricity flowing to the battery from the vehicles generator (2016's), or perhaps alternator if that is what yours has. What the batteries temperature is, etc. Ford technicians know to do this, basically set the battery in service days to 0 when they install a new one, that resets the BMS. AutoZone, Walmart, Advance, quick lube places, etc., don't, mainly because they did not know about this, or they neglected to inform the service person installing the new battery, they did not get the memo, what ever. I was dumb as a duck about it until I replaced the factory 4 year old, actually to the day almost, AutoZone replaced it and sent me on my way. Because I am a **** retentive person, I did not like the 1,400+ still increasing day by day in service days FMCO battery, kept showing up in my CarBit monitoring software. Leaving the vehicle locked, the proximity key well out of range of the vehicle, for 8 plus hours doesn't work either. Plugging, "0", in the reporting PID's 1,400+ day value doesn't work either. Forscan software, a very good OBD-II adapter - ELM327 scan tool, or your local Ford dealer service department, you can do it yourself or they can.

Why this is so important, and necessary for vehicles equipped with the BMS programming, that it must be done with a new battery installation. As batteries age they place more demand on the vehicles charging components. Ford ECM's and the related BMS programming keep up with this subtle over time increasing demand. The system adjusts, for example, the charging output of the vehicles generator in my case, to accommodate the batteries age and demand. That is the quick explanation from my dealerships service department. That said, when AutoZone replaced my old battery, my vehicles generator was sending 13.8 - 14.7 volts to charge the battery. Once and a while that would actually increase briefly to 15.1 volts long enough to generate a charging system fault code for scanning equipment to pick up on, and does not trip the idiot light, "Check Engine Light," on the dash. The fault code gives Ford technicians a heads up about a pending issue when you run the vehicle through a Ford Service bay for the regular oil change or other simple service. Nope, they are not trying to stick you with a new battery purchase, if that pops up at your next vehicle service. When the new battery gets put in, the charging system still sends the 13.8 - 14.7 volts to the new battery when it only needs 12.5 - 13.5 volts to stay charged up, and only needs the higher charge rate under load, or if you forget to turn things off, or unplug the ice chest in the back, when you shut off the ignition, (temporary demand vs. sustained demand). So, not resetting the BMS to 0 if so equipped, means at the very least, premature failure of the new battery due to overcharging/oversupply, or worse, replacement of the vehicle generator - alternator as sending too much juice to a new battery can cause them to overheat and eventually fail. It's how Ford explained it to me, since I have the equipment to mess with it, I reset the system myself. Best of luck fixing your other problem. If I cant clear it, reprogram it, or reset it, I have to let Ford fix it. I'm too old for messing around under the hood too much, or under the vehicle at all. God, I would never get up off the ground!
 

762mm

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Since you messed with the throttle position sensor, you might need to do a reset on the throttle body so it re-learns new values.

Watch this :

 
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jay0555

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Thanks for all the help guys! I reset the throttle body per the video. I tested the battery and low and behold it would not take a charge. Once I replaced the battery the engine cranked up without an issue. Interesting how the battery would go dead during a TPS change (its not like they put a light under the hood for me or anything). Thanks again! Hope this helps someone else in the future.
 

Plati

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Thanks for all the help guys! I reset the throttle body per the video. I tested the battery and low and behold it would not take a charge. Once I replaced the battery the engine cranked up without an issue. Interesting how the battery would go dead during a TPS change (its not like they put a light under the hood for me or anything). Thanks again! Hope this helps someone else in the future.
Its kinda funny how quick batteries go from "just fine" to "not worth a $hit" these days. I don't know if that's new or I just never noticed it in the past. Last year I bought a battery tender and tested it by leaving it on the 2003 for a couple days. Next day (out on a 10 minute drive) I couldn't get it to crank. Weird. Did the Tender kill it or was that just coincidental timing? I'm sure there's some chemistry explanation.

I'm paying more attention to batteries from now on. Will measure the voltage a couple times a year and see how it tracks. I might buy a battery tester. Batteries only seem to last 5 years if lucky. I want to be in front of any failure, but I also have a Jump'n'Carry on board.

I don't quite understand these "relearning" things. I would think if you could get it started … it would be "relearning" all the time. Shift points, battery stuff, fuel mixtures, etc. Maybe these vehicles are too complicated for my tiny little brain. Seems like you have to be an aircraft mechanic to do simple things now, or have YouTube.
 
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jay0555

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Yes, I consider myself a YouTube mechanic. thanks again for all the help, glad it was just the battery and nothing I broke (this time).
 

762mm

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Yup, many formerly great batteries ain't worth squat these days. Take Optima AGM batteries, for example: ever since they moved production to Mexico (if I recall), the quality tanked. The early failure rates on these are enormous!

I had an 8 year old Optima red top on my old Explorer that was still as strong as new when I sold the truck; someone else in the family went through 2 new gen Optima yellow tops in under 3 years on their Toyota... even though the yellow top is supposed to be better. They bought the Costco brand AGM to replace the second busted Optima and didn't have further issues. Coincidence?

This is common with new gen Optima batteries nowadays, as per what I hear. And those are supposed to be "top of the line" batteries!
 
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