New Headliner - Individual Light Stations Not Working *ONLY* When Doors Closed

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tdfuller

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New update.

A week ago took Expedition back to the shop that did the headliner. They were thorough, and spent about two hours. They dropped the front overhead center map console, both 2nd row overhead captain's chairs lights, the rear cargo light, as well as opened the C-pillar cover right rear side to expose the two cannon plugs. These things were all checked. They also removed the trim to the sunroof to look down the head of the top of the headliner. The only thing not done on this return trip was to completely drop the new headliner, and the board it is attached.

But, there seemed to be no apparent need to drop the headliner completely, as the wires that run along the top of the headliner aren't touched, just the connectors to the interior demand lights and front seat visor lights and two canon plugs. No apparent problem was noted.

So, a week later... That is this past Monday.....

I took it to my regular mechanic to have a look while scheduled for regular oil/filter change... and...

He found Fuse #24 blown. Fuse #24 as shown in the Owner's Manual and on whtbronco's Power Distribution Box visual above.

It is "hot at all times" and controls the "interior demand lamps - front map/dome lamps, 2nd row dome/map lamp, glove compartment lmap, cargo lamp, roof rail lamps, battery saver relay coil, battery saver relay power."

Fuses don't usually blow unless something causes them to blow...

... When he replaced with a good fuse, more weird things started to happen. The front overhead center console on/off switches begin to work, however the driver side overhead map bulb remained ever so slightly illuminated even when switched off, and both 2nd row overhead lights then remained on all the time, even with the doors closed! Clearly, the problem was not resolved.

... At that time, his thought was to try to replace the Headlamp Power Switch Assembly - which I believe is P/N SW3935. The shops manager put one on order from a local Autozone due to arrive Tuesday.
That was Monday at the close of business of his shop... and that's when things got more weird.

The next day, Tuesday, I got a call from the shop's manager that the vehicle was ready for pickup. I got over to the shop and while the shop did bring in a Duralast headlight switch the front manager said that the switch was missing two pins and could not be used on my vehicle and that a proper switch SW3935 will need to be ordered. The upfront manager said I could talk to the mechanic doing the work and the manager provided me a printed schematic with a brand new (good) 15 amp fuse taped to the spot on the schmeatic where it goes.

The mechanic hand wrote on the schematic that this good fuse taped to the schematic was "pulled out." This fuse is not in the power distrribution box at this time. The manager directed me to chat directly with the mechanic.

When I talked with the mechanic, the tune of the mechanic changed from the previous day. The mechanic shifted his position to believe that a new headlight switch probably would not solve the problem. When I mentioned to him that the upfront manager was going to bring in another headlight switch - proper one - without the two missing pins, the mechanic said that was news to him.

So the good news is that the "problem" is back to where it was as originally described in this thread, with the 15 amp interior demand lamps/battery saver relay fuse pulled.
The bad news is the problem is still not solved, and the mechanic appeared to shift his stance from Monday, where he thought it was the headlight switch, to Tuesday thinking less so that it was and just ready to get the vehicle out of the bay and on its way.

My view is that the blown fuse #24 provides a clue. I guess it is possible a wiring short is causing it, or, the headlight switch is causing the short.

Thanks for any new advice,
Todd
 

whtbronco

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It could be the headlight, interior dimmer, switch I suppose. It's pretty easy to swap it out. You could always try a junkyard for a replacement switch. I hear from family there are lots of junkyards around Charlotte still. The good news is many yards will let you pull the parts yourself meaning you can test the disassembly on theirs before trying yours. Anyway this might be an option save you some time and money.

HEADLAMP SWITCH
REMOVAL
All vehicles

  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
Expedition
113408026


  1. CAUTION: Cover the end of the tool with tape to prevent damage to the trim panel.
NOTE: Use a thin-bladed tool to remove the headlamp switch bezel assembly.

3. Remove the headlamp switch and bezel assembly.
  • Disconnect the electrical connectors.
113408028

4. Remove the screws, release the tabs and remove the headlamp switch.
INSTALLATION
All vehicles

  1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
 
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tdfuller

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Thanks whtbronco. Does not seem hard or overly time consuming to swap the headlight switch. Sounds like worth trying.
 

100branson

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Tdfuller did that fix your issue? I appear to be having same exact issue even fuse 24 being blown
 
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tdfuller

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The headlamp switch has not been tried yet. Did you change or otherwise mess with your headliner? I'd love to get this thing resolved. But since early December have not touched it nor anybody else. The mechanic I go to caught COVID, then others in his shop caught COVID; that, then the holidays, then we had a lightning bolt strike almost hit our home December 29. Fortunately, our home was not physically damaged and nobody was hurt, but we had lots of electronics and HVAC damage. Took us about a month to get everything resolved.....Maybe you and I can motivate each other and compare notes?!
 

Aspen03

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Did they just visually inspect the connectors or did someone actually test the circuit at each location? Are you using conventional bulbs or led? Are these the same bulb housings or something that was pre installed in the replacement headliner?

We have a pair of 03's and have never experienced this issue though we've never replaced a headliner. I've had lights stay on due to faulty door jamb switches and the rear glass latch. If this wasn't an issue before the headliner swap I would bank on the switch not being the issue, it would have to be an awfully big coincidence if so as you wouldn't even interact with it in this scenario.
 
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tdfuller

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Yes, connectors were inspeced. Took it back to the headliner shop and then pulled it down part way. There are only a couple of bundled connectors. Not sure if anyone tested circuit at each location though. Conventional bulbs. I am hoping 100branson will respond further. He says he is having the same issue. If he did not touch his headliner there is another clue. Intuitively I agree that messing with the headliner is awfully suspect, but I've owned cars, boats, and airplanes and seen not one, but several instances of bizaare things (failures) happen at almost the exact time that were completely coincidental.
 

100branson

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Tdfuller I'm not sure if the headliner was ever removed actually bought it from the Toyota dealership this way and never realized till we drove it at night from what I've seen it doesn't look like the headliner has been removed but the trim around the back and c pillars look like they were pulled before.
Carfax shows this SUV had a minor rear end accident.
I do have a junkyard headlight/gauge dimmer switch to try
My next thing is to try a thermal camera and see what wire starts to heat up when fuse 24 is in and work from there that's more a shot in the dark
 
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tdfuller

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okay 100branson!! Sounds like a plan. Please keep me (this thread) informed of what works and what does not. I will do the same. Thanks.
 

100branson

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I work away from home so I haven't had much time to mess with it I tried a new fuse for fun to see what happens it blew instantly then I put a 20amp in for a few seconds didn't get warm or anything then stuck at 15 amp back in and everything works good for now did a walk around everything seems good so far ( I know this was a bad idea) mind you I bought it this way I was originally hoping problem might have been fix or etc this is a place to start
 

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