No pedal after start up, pedal if vacuum hose off and plugged from the brake booster

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Swaync11

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Hello,
I have a 2004 ford expedition 4.6 2x4 with no traction control. Last year we put new brake lines on because they were so rusted we had a leak. This year all of a sudden we were going through brake pads in the rear driver side so we put on a new caliper. Started it up and the brake pedal went to the floor. We bled the brakes several times and we would get a pedal once bled as long as it was shut off. As soon as you would start it the pedal would go to the floor like there was no resistance. if you drove it and pumped the pedal while stopping it would eventually gain pressure and give a better pedal but as soon as you let up and went to stop again you would have to pump it all over again to get a pedal. You would have to plan out your stops even further. I read a million posts about adjusting the rod in the brake booster, but this particular truck has the nipple at the end so it can not be adjusted. We then decided to get a new brake booster and while we were at it we decided to get a new master cylinder (we did have an abs light on). We installed the parts and bled the brakes, once again great pedal when off then no pedal when started. We then tried to bleed the abs module and pumped again, same thing pedal when off none when on. Went out and bought a better OBD II reader to read the abs code. The code was only for a right wheel speed sensor, C1165. The only other thing we thought it could be was the abs module, so i took a picture of it and ordered one that i thought was the correct part, the last letters on the part were AG and i Thought it was AC the new part was AA. When i tried to look up the part a whole catergory came up as AA-AG so naive me assumed all of these combinations put into one catergory meant they were all compatible, i am not sure that this is the case. Anyway, ordered and recieved the part put it in the vehicle, bled the lines, pedal when it was off and then right to the floor when i started it (mind you this whole time if you unhooked the check valve from the vacuum line (on booster) and pressed it was excellant pedal, we are also getting a P0401 code so I thought well maybe vacuum at one point is affecting it, but it had no vacuum and got hard? ) I then read about forscan and reprogramming the abs module. So i didn't lose hope and ordered forscan. I copied the original data from the original part and programmed it into the new module, and then still got the same code! i only deleted the dtc log and not reset it though......i am at a loss and can not find anything specific to my truck. Dealership wants to charge me up to $300 to program/bleed it and i have way too much $$ and time already invested in it myself to drop another $300.....PLEASE PLEASE Help! Thank you...BTW there were never any leaks found.
 
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Swaync11

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also last year we dealt with the same code...p0401 and we replaced egr, sensor, 2 vacuum lines with a hole in it, (any part dealing with egr lol)then i took off and cleaned all the carbon build up on the throttle body and finally cleared the code to pass inspection....
 
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Swaync11

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**Update, as of right now...i am not getting the B2900 code anymore!! I reset all of the dtcs, instead of just clearing the log originally. I do not have the P0401 code at the moment, but i have not been able to drive the vehicle to run the cycle for the egr for it to throw the code again either.

Started it up and still no pedal so it wasn't the abs module either!!!
 
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Dustin Gebhardt

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If you connect a vacuum pump (like the Mi T Vac brake bleeder) to the brake booster, apply a vacuum, and then try to apply the brakes (with the engine running), how does the pedal feel? If the pedal feels good, then your vacuum booster is good but your vacuum source is poor.

Since you are able to eventually pump up the brakes, this should eliminate all of the calipers, lines, etc. We are now looking for a failed ABS module (which when faulty will allow fluid to return to the master cylinder when not designed to) or a failed vacuum booster or a lack of vacuum. On my ‘07 5.4, the vacuum line for the booster connects to the rear of the intake manifold and is a real pain to reconnect if it falls off. There isn’t any hose clamp on it, either. I’ve also recently found a variety of evap and other rubber vacuum hoses that were collapsing when the engine was running. I replaced the ones that I found.
 
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Swaync11

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We replaced module got wrong vin and reprogrammed it. Nothing was wrong with original apparently either. We ended up finding out rear caliper we replaced was the wrong part. Replaced that bled brakes...no air. Test drive heard a noise saw a huge gouge in rim. Front pads were shot and wore funny, it almost looked like the caliper wasn't on the rotor right. Bought new pads did the abs module bleed with forescan, another manual bleed of all calipers (still no air) and boom the pedal was finally back. Thank you for your response!! Now after all the hassle we have a transmission fluid leak.... looking into that tonight hopefully...
 
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