I sprayed the rear u-joint cups with penetrating oil last night and that actually helped a bit. I'm sure they are pretty much dry, maybe if it can move just a bit it self centers better when spinning.
I had my wife order that swivel socket last night actually, but thank you. It does look like a good match for the driveshaft. Also ordered a set of impact 12 point metric sockets and a new impact 1/2-3/8 reducer. I have never needed anything more than my non-impact 3/8 drive 12mm 12 point socket, and I've had the front driveshaft out before. This time it's being tough and my body isn't what it used to be. I got 5 of the 8 out tonight before my shoulders were done if I want to be able to work tomorrow.
I also took the shift motor off the transfer case to verify operation, it works fine. The transfer case has just 3 settings, 2H, 4H and 4L.. I expected 4, ya know another for AWD. I could do without the AWD, I only ever use it in dry and wet pavement. In the snow it's flat out dangerous I think, true 4wd is superior. The shift motor was in the 2H position when removed. It does not move when the switch is moved from 2H to AWD, but it appears there's no AWD setting in the transfer case. It does move as expected when the switch is moved to 4H. I repeated this 6 times and put it back together. I did manually shift it as well. I was also intrigued to find that the shift rod is spring loaded, just start turning it from 4H to 2H and it jumps for ya, startled me the first time. It has be turned all the way from 2H and 4H, which I expected.
I need to do so more research on the transfer case and how this AWD setup really works. The IWE's are releasing as expected so the transfer case must not be actually disengaging, even though it's not stuck in 4H. That said there is a differential in the transfer case when the AWD setting is selected and it does send power up front it's easy to feel.