the 5.4L 3V fix - how long does it last?

[TonyM]

"New to me" 2005 Expedition 2WD XLT with 166k on the clock.

I bought it knowing that I'd have to do some work to it, but during my research into the truck I somehow overlooked all the engine issues of this model. I wish I'd seen this site/forum prior to purchase...

Needless to say I've had A LOT of work done to the truck including but not limited to: new plugs, wires, coils, tranny service, heater hoses, cam phasers and solenoids, lifters, 2 new catalytic converters, etc. Basically all that you'd do to a "new to you" vehicle PLUS all the stuff from the engine issues whose symptoms the previous owner was somehow able to hide when I test drove it (not sure what they did to keep the stalling, roughness out when I tested it but damned if it didn't nearly die on me as I was driving home).

Anyway, the question is, how long should the engine work keep the 3V issues at bay? Are there others on this forum that have had these repairs done by a dealer and had the symptoms reappear down the road? If so, how long or how many miles did it take to go bad again? I know there's a warranty on the parts and labor but I'm curious if this is a truck that I'll be able to let my son drive in 3 years when he gets his license or if I'll have to go back to the shop for major work again.

Dealer says that other than the engine stuff I've got a really solid truck

Thanks in advance for any insight and keep up the great work on this site!

Tony

 

[docraymund]

It depends on how you use it. Considering all the things you replaced, it would be a while when new problems would occur. And problems don't occur all at the same time. Just enjoy your truck and take things one step at a time. After all, 3 yrs. from now the 3rd gens would have depreciated in value so consider upgrading by then.

 

[Jb14]

Tony welcome to the site. I have an 05 4WD with 256k running strong. I had good luck with my truck. I have not changed out my cam phasers or CATs but have done all the general maintenance stuff. I did just have my trans rebuild back in July but that was do to the OD going out. I have the same plans to give to my son in the next few years and will replace engine when needed. But again runs strong!

 

[1955moose]

The only item that sometimes fails, but hasn't been replaced is the fuel pump module near your spare tire. But your SUV is running fine, so as the saying goes if it ain't broke, you know the rest. If quality parts were used for the cam phasers, and catalytic convertors and such, you should be fine. Keep up on all the maintance, oil changes, trans services, and such, and all will be good. It's not uncommon to get 350k out of an original engine. If you tow, add a trans cooler, better still don't tow. These are tough trucks, with some quirks, but so were MG,s Jaguars and other cars that people love.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TonyM]

Thanks guys - fingers crossed for many miles to come. Happy Thanksgiving to all!

 

[ExpeditionAndy]

Tony,

I have an '05 that I bought 3 years ago with 119,000 on the clock. I now have 146,000 and it is going strong. I do have the cam phaser tap noise but I have no plans to do that work until it gets much worse. My dealer said if I keep doing regular oil changes it will last for a long time. My biggest issue is rusted out rocker panels and the radiator support which I will take care of next summer. We drove back and forth to PA 5 times this year that about 1300 miles of driving and it just runs great on the highway.

 

[Boose]

On my 05 I've personally replaced the following all at around 100K:

• Plugs as they were due.
• throttle body (there was a TSB if I remember correctly. It was cheaper for me to replace the whole throttle body then just the tps)
• Cam Phaser project (they were a little noisy however I wanted to fix before they were a problem. This project included the following):
• Phasers
• phaser solonoids
  
• Chains
  
• Hydraulic tensioners
• chain guides
• oil pump (this is usually not replaced however I have read up that there is reason to point the whole phaser issue to the oil pump back plate flexing under higher RPMs) replaced with an aftermarket Mellings performance unit (Billet backing plate).
  
• Water Pump
• Serpentine belt
• Power Steering Pump

Since then, I just had to have the transmission done at 125K. Something broke internally it never slipped... not a clutch issue or lack of grip.
I also just replaced the Fuel Pump Driver Module ... what a dumb place for an electronic component...

The bottom end of these motors is rock solid, as long as the oil was changed.

The biggest problem with these motors is the phaser issue in my opinion. I did fairly extensive research on this as I did the job myself, and I didn't want to do it twice. The variable valve timing is oil pressure dependent. The noisy phasers (as well as the missing and roughness) are the result. The oil pump itself as well as the tensioner seals are to blame with regards to a lack of oil pressure getting up to the phasers. The tensioner o rings fail allowing oil to bleed out from behind them. This does not impact their function however it does impact the oil pressure leading up to the cam phasers. The oil pump issue is another related contributor. The oil pump is fine for supplying oil to the reciprocating assembly, however when the back plate flexes, there is a drop in pressure which prevents oil from getting up to the phasers with efficient pressure (same net result as the blown out o-rings). Unfortunately, it is common place to change out just the phasers which seems to be just a temporary fix. The reason that the phasers fail is not addressed with this approach.

So to answer your question... the phaser issue may return on your truck depending what was replaced as well as the status of what wasn't replaced.

 

[1955moose]

Just curious how many hours did it take you to do the timing chains, and drop and replace oil pan?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Boose]

I did it over a weekend. I started early on Saturday & had her running by Late Sunday afternoon.

I didn't need to drop the pan to change the oil pump luckily, you can get to the bolts with the pan in place and pull the pump off of the crank snout. I spent a lot of time ensuring that the chains and marks were all spot on with their timing marks. I didn't have all of the Ford spec tools for maintaining position etc.

 

[1955moose]

Good deal, the reason I asked, is I looked online, and it said 10 hours to do the chains and sensors. I know that's for a professional tech, that does this job regularly. Glad all turned out well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk