ball joint

[studabaker]

I have had an excessive noise from my suspension for while now and a shop told me my ball joints were bad and I thought this was something I could do. I got one side done with several challenges that took me late into the night to complete. After seeing the identical vehicle done online i decided to tackle it. I got the press but there is a step prior which requires a special removal fork which i had to take time to get. i ended up using some other puller tools on the removal of the joint from the knuckle. I then attached the c-clamp press however I had the wrong attachment and had pressed the ball joint onto itself as pictured. This cancels and forces driving the bad ball joints through, with some hammering the ball joint went through.

 

[studabaker]

2nd half

The second time doing this it was much easier after the trouble I had with the drivers side last weekend this was a relief. An alignment is recommended before driving much after doing this repair. I had the ball joint fork this time which may have helped but each suspension point on my vehicle required some hammering. The tie rods were not initially done until there was still some wobble. A god trick could be to replace the nut once loosened in order to not damage the threads when hammering the end. This helps in limiting movement once the ball joint is loosened. After separating the ball joint from the knuckle it is pressed out. I have a picture of the correct way to use the press from this time. There is a large nut on the lower ball joint that I had an adjustable crescent wrench for but that could be a stopping point for someone if they did not have that larger wrench or socket. its over an inch... The nuts holding them in place are mostly keeping them in place and all the weight of the car is supported by the cone shape of the joint fitting into the brake and wheel hub assembly(knuckle).

 

[studabaker]

tie rods

After doing the tie rods my steering is easier and this contributed to elimination of wobble in my suspension. Be sure to do this before the alignment because its going to have to be done again.

I am still attempting to eliminate a wobble on smooth road which seems to be the front axle now. I and going to replace my rear axle bearings next.

 

[Gruz7]

Think I need ball joints as well after reading this... And, of course, CV shafts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[98eb5.4]

cv shafts aren't a huge deal, 12mm 12 point socket or wrench and socket for the wheel axle shaft nut,

lotsa instructions out there show xtra work but mine came out just by unbolting the sway bar ends

 

[Gruz7]

cv shafts aren't a huge deal, 12mm 12 point socket or wrench and socket for the wheel axle shaft nut,



lotsa instructions out there show xtra work but mine came out just by unbolting the sway bar ends

Thanks I'll give that a go when j get he new CVs here


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[98eb5.4]

(ahh ended up with a double)

cv shafts aren't a huge deal, 12mm 12 point socket or wrench (i used my feet/legs on a short wrench to break the inner bolts loose) + socket for the wheel axle nut

lotsa instructions out there show lotsa xtra work to make room but i got 'em out by unbolting the sway bar ends

 

[studabaker]

alignment

as long as the tie rods are not turned or the upper bolts to the control arm are not loosened the alignment should be the same when reversed after replacing the cv shaft. I think mine were bad enough that theres a chance but my boots are fine. I still need an alignment and will find out if that eliminates the last of the wobble. I think I need my wheel balanced as well. The best way would be the sway bar but Im not sure how much clearance that gains. The bolt is the easiest.
------------------------------

CV axles are not very tough but I did take my time being such a critical thing ( 5 hours with a break ). The sway bar link removal is so much easier than any ball joint or tie rod and provides enough room. You can turn the steering wheel a bit to give just enough room. In hind sight when I had the ball joints apart this would have been even that much easier but this works too. 12mm star socket and 35mm axle socket.
*
Oh and I put a screw driver in the rotor against the caliper to hold the axle in place while wrenching on either the axle nut or the 12mm bolts on the cv axle flange. So with the wheel off the screw driver can fit in the side of the rotor and will spin until it hits the caliper and then will hold the axle in place in either direction.