Well I confirmed both rear actuators are fine. The issue is the mode actuator has calibrated itself to far one way (heat/floor), and not enough the other way (Cool/ceiling). The clicking I was hearing was it running out of travel space in the heat mode. I just got into ceiling mode and...
I can hear them trying to do the calibration procedure (didn’t realize that’s what they were trying to do), but they’re both clicking now. They were fine prior to changing the battery.
I installed a new battery today. After the install both rear actuators seem to be out of calibration. They worked fine before the battery swap. I have found conflicting information on what exactly the procedure is to re-calibrate them. Does anyone have the re-calibration procedure for the...
2013 Expedition. So my rear HVAC will only blow cold. The mode door works as I can get it to change to the different modes (floor/ceiling), but the air is always cold. I connected Forscan and got a B2916 - rear blend door circuit fault. Any ideas?
Reviving again! Getting ready to tackle this job with the Sunroof DR kit. When dropping the headliner do you have to remove the vents/registers, or do they drop with the liner? Thought I saw a thread earlier where I think it said you did not have to remove them, but I can't find that one...
My 2013 was recently doing this and it turned out to be the outside air temp sensor. I could see it on the display too. The outside air would randomly go to -25° and it would switch from cooling to heating. I also used forscan to reset the HVAC control module after I switched the sensor.
Haven't done my Expedition yet, but on other cars I always flush until clear with distilled water. Then when I take the coolant capacity divided by 2 and put that amount in straight coolant. I do this because its it impossible to get all the water out after a flush, and therefor IMO get a true...
Do you have access to a multimeter? I would check to see if you're getting 12 volts at the brake lights. Do they flash when your hazards are on? Did you buy an OEM brake switch? Maybe the new switch is bad out of the box. Here's a diagram for your model.
Unplug the fan clutch under the same conditions and see of it's getting it's 12v signal. If there's 12v then it's likely the fan clutch, if its not then maybe your PCM.
Sounds like it's working as it should. The fan should not run full bore all the time. Especially if the engine has not warmed up. Are your coolant temps good and AC working ok?
@mr_dave
For the door speakers, is there another OEM amp or radio control module in the dash for them, or are they fed straight from the back of the OEM HU?
Question below from your post.
Rear subwoofer amplifier:
- brown/red +12v - Did you use this to power your aftermarket amp? Doesn't seem like it would be enough to power aftermarket equipment.
- black/blue chassis ground
- purple/red +6v switched - is this a power on signal? Does it come...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.