I would also try just resetting the computer to allow it to relearn the new fuel air mixture. Just unplug the battery and turn the key and plug it back in. Let it idle for 5 minutes and you're good to go
Cheap is all relative too. I bought my cooper for about 225 a tire, and I didn't think that was a bad price. And I do A LOT of snow driving. I would definitely buy them again
I'm guessing conditions were just right and the downstream o2 got a good reading for once. See if it stays off when the weather changes. The computer stores the codes even after the light goes out so unless you unplugged the battery, they should still be there.
I think the main difference is the cam phasers. Real nightmare in my opinion and would keep me from ever buying a 3v 5.4L. But if the price is right, what the heck, it's the same block so as long as you have the correct computer to run it and a wiring harness to plug everything in, no reason it...
If you are going for quiet, cutting out cats is not helping the cause. I have a glasspack dumped at the axle with all 4 cats still and it isn't super loud. The cats are like a whole other muffler
What's the year and model? Can you tell where it is coming from? Also can you hear it from outside the truck as well as inside (have someone walk along it as you drive slow)?
It might be something with the magnetic clutch in the t-case. Put it in 2wd and pull the t-case fuse to see if the...
My money's on plugs and coils. Unless the cylinder is missing every time, the truck will not throw a code. Old plugs can run fine at idle but still crap the bed once you put a load on the motor.
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My dad's truck pretty much has the manifold hanging loose on one side. Sounds like a tractor but still drives fine.
We tried to do the other side on his last winter but the main problem we ran into was not having the room to weld a nut onto the studs that snapped off. Also it is very time...
Easy way to decide if it is electrical or mechanical is to pull the ABS fuse. If it still does it, then you know it is a warped rotor or sticking pad somewhere. Also check the parking brake for issues inside the rotor.
If it stops, then you know for sure something is of issue with the ABS...
Power steering is usually only when you first start and when you turn the wheels. Also makes more of a screechy sound.
I don't see why that insulation is necessary. Mine is uninsulated and it has not melted through...
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Oh I totally understand. I've been at the light too for the same reason. The pig can hurt the insides to fill sometimes haha.
I was just afraid the OP might be running it to the light a lot hence wondering how much wiggle room he has.
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Without access to a hoist, the cats are gonna be tough. With that few miles, I would just leave them. They will be good for at least another 100k.
Or install the exhaust yourself and have the shop just address the cats. Find a shop that only does exhaust, they are out there and will know what...
It's actually fairly easy to get to them under the dash as long as you lie on your back. It's kind of awkward but not too bad.
Of course size of upper body would play a roll in that...
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My truck has a very fast last 1/4. Like less than 60 miles from quarter to light. Be careful running it that low. It's also hard on the fuel pump since it uses the fuel to cool itself
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Have you tried pulling the abs fuse to see if it is driveable? Not really sure that it will be but turning the abs system off completely might at least allow you to drive it.
I have had my fuse pulled for almost 3 years and never had issues other than the dash light always on
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Is your shifter really loose? I only had problems when the screw came all the way out and the shifter was flopping all over.
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It would really depend on what the knock sounds like. If it is true rod knock then the motor is probably already toast... how many miles on the new motor? Change the oil regularly? Is the oil pressure gauge reading anything.
Ah I see. I read over that part and just saw drivers wheel wobbling. In that case it definitely needs to be aligned. Also make sure the castle nut is tightened all the way down. You need an impact or very large pipe to get them tight enough.
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My truck does that if I put the nozzle as far in as it will go. (Get your mind out the gutter...) but I have found if I pull it out about 2 inches it fuels just fine. Just a design flaw in the filler tubes I think.
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Otherwise is it balanced? When you say it wobbles, do you feel it in the steering wheel or more so through the entire truck? Does it get better or worse during turns or with higher speed?
EDIT: I see now you are probably talking about the steering wheel wobbling. Not to insult you, but are the...
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