That's gonna look awesome, I just finished fiberglassing my double din into the center console and putting an ipad up in the stock headunit location.....after seeing this I don't feel as cool anymore lol
Yeah once it gets up to normal temp it seems to go away. I only started noticing it the past couple months. But I don't put too many miles on it, so I haven't changed the oil since I started hearing it
I always just pull the dome light fuse when I go to car shows, quick easy solution if you don't wanna wait for it to go off on its own. Not positive the exact fuse number but it's a blue one (15A I believe)
Was just reading another thread and people were talking about the ticking sound until the engine has warmed up. Mine has been doing the exact same thing lately, was hoping someone could explain it a little more to me. Any fixes or is it even a big deal?
It all depends on which ones you go with....my buddy had some cheap projectors on his f150 and the light output was actually worse than stock and they started fogging up from condensation after a few months, but I've heard real projectors (retrofits) are very good when done right, I think...
I've had broken lines replaced on mine 3 separate times now. First time it was the line the went to the front driver caliper, when they replaced that and bled the system a few more lines broke so they fixed those too. The second time it was a line off of the master cylinder. And the third was...
so these were on my truck for one summer in 2010, have probably like 3-4000 miles on them so the tires are near perfect condition. Taken off before they ever saw snow and have been in my basement ever since. I'd like to get $1000 for them since thats only like half of what i paid. They have...
the light output on yellow (3000K) color temp bulbs is higher than that of similar powered bulbs putting out a higher color temp. so a 35w 3000K bulb will put out more visible light than a 35w 8000K bulb.
5.4 with straight pipe behind cats, so stock cats are in place then it splits into two pipes with a y-pipe under the backseat and exits behind each rear tire with 4" slash cut stainless tips
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXJFqkrPyLQ
have gone through a few setups but my first one was custom piping from the cats back....went into a 30" glass then split with a y pipe and exits at both sides with 4" slash cut stainless tips, at the time it cost 350 for everything. I'm now running the same pipes and everything but deleted the...
dexter is right, rear facing subs in a suv sounds better....i've experimented with mine facing different ways over the past few years with different boxes and rear facing does sound better than front facing. my current box has them firing upwards with the ports facing the rear and a powerhorn...
i used to have that problem on my 98, when it was in drive the indicator would be above "2", so everything was kinda shifted to the right.....that was back when the truck belonged to my dad so he had the dealership fix it so they just installed a new cable and that solved it
i had a similar problem on my 98 a few years ago.....it ended up being the bolt that holds the sunroof motor in place. while it was opening i heard the pop and i could hear the motor spinning but the glass was not moving, what had happened was that the bolt had fallen out and the glass had kinda...
i havent yet done the dashboard lights but last time i was at a junkyard i took apart an expo gauge cluster and it looked like they were just twist in bulbs.....so im assuming you can just order any color led replacement bulbs you want and swap them in, might need to take out the ugly green...
i'll have to take a look at mine next time i'm home to see if it shines the way yours used to, i never really paid attention to it until now that you brought it up
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.