Check loose ground wires, I had one that was loose on an 1971 RUSTang. It caused all sorts of trouble. Doesn't hurt to run an extra wire from the alt. to the frame and see if any differences happen.
I have a post on my 2003 Expedition that had the brakes (mostly the driver's side front caliper) that dragged. It felt like I was towing something all the time but I could get to highway speeds. Lucky I didn't do that much or for very long, the rotor survived. As an old school problem may...
This morning I took some short stop and go trips to get the brakes tested. So far the new brake line to the anti-skid control box remains dry. The rest of the connections were OK from the start. Brake is a little less spongy, maybe the feel is more from the calipers and different pads than...
Brake job is mostly done. I still have some sponginess on the brake pedal. I did take some pictures, the bright parts are the new ones. Most trouble is still with the connection to the anti-skid block. The new stainless brake line was put in from the kit I ordered when fixing the rear brake...
I ordered replacement brake hoses w banjo bolts and washers from our favorite "rock" store.
As far as the spring thing goes there is a spring attached to a post on the pad against the pistons. Not sure where the other end goes, I guess somewhere a video would show this. The outside...
Well I ordered the parts, we'll see how that turns out in a week or so when they arrive. In the mean time I reassembled the brake (still missing stuff) and drove around. Nothing else was changed, just caliper off and caliper back on. This time it behaved much better, I didn't feel like I was...
Update, got the caliper off. No other complications, turning the c-clamps were still a little hard. It felt like something was slowing down the fluid flow. Could be I'm just not used to this yet. Wheel without caliper turned around smoothly and it still is connected to the differential...
Ok, what I found out now. First brake was dragging. Second the guide pins had no end caps and the bottom pin was partially stripped, ended up hammering a torx 47 size and carefully worked it loose. Third the outside spring was there but no inside spring. Pads still have some meat on them but...
As far as replacing brake items in pairs this is my normal mode of operation, thanks for the reminder.
I was planning to retrack the calipers by slow c-clamp. Is there any one way springs to watch for?
I'm use to car free floating calipers that will back off with a little pressure.
Is this...
I have a 2003 5.4 2v engine that at times will tick. Usually low oil or on start up and low rpm stop at a stop light. As a fact finding measure try one or maybe two quarts of Marvel mystery oil or very similar cleaner. Type F transmission oil (not FA) is an even older old timer test with the...
Hello folks, me again. After the front passenger side CV joint was replaced it looks like something is dragging on the driver side. I feel a pulse like a warped rotor but nothing gets worse when the brake is applied. I haven't changed the brakes on this vehicle yet since buying it, the C-19...
The answer of checking universal joints may be your answer. I just replaced the passenger side front (4wd) cv joint shaft (wrestling experience would be helpful, the shaft does not want to come out). When turning I would feel something pulling like a warped rotor. About a month ago I went on...
375K plus miles.... most of my vehicles would be a pile of rust at that time. Salty roads at winter are not friendly to steel (be it frames, bridges or rebar). So frame and electrical issues top my list on long term vehicles. I'm have engine issues on my 2003 with 236k miles on it. If you...
My bleeding the brake setup. After two big cans of DOT 3 it now feels solid. Time will tell if all the connections are as solid (leak free) as the brake is now.
While repositioning the cross over brake line, I broke the vent line to the gas tank. I ended up getting a length of gas line and two brass barb fittings and bypassed the rusted vent line. All reconnected back again. Note taped end of old brake line.
I maneuvered the cross over brake line after cutting the old line from the flexible frame to wheel line connections. I could not remove the old line without damaging the fuel tank so it remain in the truck. I needed to stretch the driver side line to get to the connection point. This left the...
Back strap is locked into the frame by the drive shaft and the fuel tank itself. Tried to break the stap off but no luck with that. Ended up saying some prayers and got my HF sawzall out with a short blade and used the drive shaft as a guide. The fuel tank and Shaft ended up damage free in...
The front strap was not too bad to twist out. Replacement strap was not bent the same. Some some adjusting was needed using two pipe wrenches. Picture shows the "before" lol.
Now I needed to be under the truck. Safety First! I borrowed a bigger floor jack and rested some of the weight on the car ramps with a 2 by 8 acting as a spacer. The rest of the weight was on jack stands. I also had a old scissor jack with a sheet of plywood supporting the fuel tank to...
Since I knew I was most likely unable to fasten the line going to the passenger's side via over the fuel tank. So I did something to help the line not be damaged fishing it through. Pictures show new tank straps and line (in two sections) before and after.
Decided to jack up the driver's side and chock the passenger's side. My little floor jack could not go high enough, used truck's jack and jack stands instead.
The new line is in three pieces for shipping and ease of installation. Tried to install with tire left on, not really working. Did tape up the union end to keep dirt out.
Well, my brake adventure with pictures. Removed the main line along the driver side frame rail. The rust gave out in a hurry so disassembly was not a problem. A comparison to the nice shiny replacement lines.
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