Feels like the truck is power braking while driving.

[Lee_H]

Hello folks, me again. After the front passenger side CV joint was replaced it looks like something is dragging on the driver side. I feel a pulse like a warped rotor but nothing gets worse when the brake is applied. I haven't changed the brakes on this vehicle yet since buying it, the C-19 had me working from home a lot so the miles are very low (that I added). I plan to raise the wheel and start digging in but having an idea on the most common stuff would help. Is it common to have the brake pads jam (by rust or other)? Caliper jamming? Caliper jammed but not leaking? Land mines to watch for on dis-assembly - ie - wear plates breaking, bleeder screw snapping, etc. How common does wheel bearings bind without grinding? Differentials binding? Accidental 4 wheel drive engagement while the select switch is on 2wd? I definitely feel a drag like partially holding the brake on at least driving uphill on start up. Driving does have a pulse but it doesn't get worse when using the brake. Some guidance please.

 

[Yupster Dog]

I feel a pulse like a warped rotor but nothing gets worse when the brake is applied. I haven't changed the brakes on this vehicle yet since buying it,

Defiantly could be a stuck caliper good way to check is,
After you go for a ride check the temperature of each rotor to see if one is extra hot.
Does your parking brake work? pull rear rotor and inspect parking brake.

You can get a thermometer gun for like $20 if you don't have one, or you can just hold your hand near (don't be that guy and touch hot stuff) the wheel to feel the heat. You will defiantly feel the difference.

SAFTEY REMINDER: on the brake system it is always a good idea to replace in pairs. If you replace a caliper make sure you replace the one on the opposite side as well. (even more so if you do not know the maintenance history of the brakes)

 

[Lee_H]

As far as replacing brake items in pairs this is my normal mode of operation, thanks for the reminder.

I was planning to retrack the calipers by slow c-clamp. Is there any one way springs to watch for?
I'm use to car free floating calipers that will back off with a little pressure.
Is this what I'm going to find or should I watch a particular video (you tube?) to get the details?

I'm hoping for a jammed pad that a set of new pads (both sides) replaced and clean up the calipers.

I'm finding even NAPA has only rebuilt calipers for these vehicles, same for Auto z, advanced, rock auto and amazon. I had no idea Pep Boys is now repair only (in NJ) - no parts.

I remember rebuilding drum brake cylinders on the wheels way back when, broke a lot of bleeder screws too (that is the start of my liking with anti seize stuff).

Any recommendations on brand if it comes to rebuilt only with steep core charges?

 

[Yupster Dog]

Any recommendations on brand if it comes to rebuilt only with steep core charges?

I have Duralast Gold from Auto Zone
all around calipers, rotors and pads. never have a problem. But if i did have problem limited liftime warranty on the parts is the deal maker. pads wear down you just take old pads in and walk out with new pads for free.

I'm finding even NAPA has only rebuilt calipers for these vehicles, same for Auto z, advanced, rock auto and amazon.

The Duralast Gold is new stuff

 

[Vincent Vega]

There is not much to removing the calipers. Use the C clamp as you normally would. Motorcraft discontinued new calipers, so you are stuck with aftermarket. When my calipers go out, I will rebuild them myself. It is just seal replacement and you will probably do a better job than the reman places. Below is one of several rebuild kits available. I also recommend replacing the springs and hardware using Motorcraft part BRPK5756.

Dorman® - Disc Brake Caliper Repair Kit

Ford Expedition 2004, Disc Brake Caliper Repair Kit by Dorman®. From minor issues to serious repairs, Dorman replacement parts will address any requirement you may have to keep your vehicle running at its peak.

www.carid.com

 

[Lee_H]

Ok, what I found out now. First brake was dragging. Second the guide pins had no end caps and the bottom pin was partially stripped, ended up hammering a torx 47 size and carefully worked it loose. Third the outside spring was there but no inside spring. Pads still have some meat on them but no wear guides on the main brake mount (small guides on pads can be seen). The weird thing was starting to back off the calipers it would not move and I did not want to over do it. Next tried the bleeder valve screw backed off. Fluid came out and the caliper moved. re-tighten the bleeder and tried again to compress the caliper. It moved with some effort, not as easy with the bleeder open.
Is it possible that the anti-lock brake box is holding the fluid back??? The easy answer is the brake parts are screwed and a cheap pad job was done to limp the truck along. But how to check the anti-lock block short of slamming the brakes in the driveway or in front of the house to see if things lock up again??? It looks like a caliper set (matching), pads (I like semi metal) (won't trust the existing ones) - Pins - guides - springs - "banjo bolt" for brake line connection and type 3 brake fluid. Any recommendations on sturdy lubricant (on cars I use anti-seize). I plan on using this for towing (moving to another house) so brakes are kind of super important now.

 

[Lee_H]

Update, got the caliper off. No other complications, turning the c-clamps were still a little hard. It felt like something was slowing down the fluid flow. Could be I'm just not used to this yet. Wheel without caliper turned around smoothly and it still is connected to the differential (shaft to transfer case is spinning). Still has meat on the pads, the inner one is the same amount of meat as well (picture).
Since the caliper put up a fight at the beginning I'm forced to throw out the idea this is just a return spring missing problem. Good brake fluid was used when I had the brake line re-placed to the rear. I did not bleed the front brakes (don't fix what ain't broke kind of thing). I'm possibly paying for that now although missing wear guides and inner return spring(s?) does help that line of thought. Any way I'm shopping for the best combination of parts. Screen shots of what I found so far. Any good or bad thoughts ???

 

[Vincent Vega]

@Lee_H thanks for the update, this is interesting. I don't have experience with the parts you were looking at. I always use Motorcraft unless discontinued, even if it costs more, just because I will keep my Exp forever and I usually get burned with aftermarket stuff. I did install a Raybestos master cyl last month (Motorcraft discontinued) and it has been fine. That forced me to do a full brake fluid flush. Brakes work and feel much better. Night and day.
You might want to closely inspect the caliper and seals. It probably got red hot multiple times so it might need some love. Let us know how it works out from here.

 

[Lee_H]

Well I ordered the parts, we'll see how that turns out in a week or so when they arrive. In the mean time I reassembled the brake (still missing stuff) and drove around. Nothing else was changed, just caliper off and caliper back on. This time it behaved much better, I didn't feel like I was towing something or resting my foot on the brake. Also the rotor was not warping either, it felt smooth. So perhaps I dodged a bullet on that one. Is it fixed? Nope not a chance. My thoughts of what else it could be are dropping off and I'm centered on getting the both calipers replaced with the correct hardware. Thanks for the battle stories, it is what keeps me going.

 

[Aspen03]

Went through this same problem only that drag turned into a fully seized caliper fairly quickly. Trashed a nice set of pads and rotors that would have had years of life left.

I replaced w a remanufactured set of calipers from rockauto....I forget which exactly, not cheapest, not the most costly. Quality is fine, have worked well for several months and about 4500k miles. I replaced w a new set of the same pads and rotors. The powerstop Z36 kit. Braking is back to better than ever. I did bleed all 4 and flush fluid as it was pretty dark and that wheel in particular got incredibly hot. I replaced the rubber brake hose as well for good measure, it may also have even been my issue being partially collapsed or something. With the heat generated I didn't trust any of it. I put about 260mi a week on my 03 and if I need to stop I want it to happen predictably.

 

[Mr_Kostas]

Hello folks, me again. After the front passenger side CV joint was replaced it looks like something is dragging on the driver side. I feel a pulse like a warped rotor but nothing gets worse when the brake is applied. I haven't changed the brakes on this vehicle yet since buying it, the C-19 had me working from home a lot so the miles are very low (that I added). I plan to raise the wheel and start digging in but having an idea on the most common stuff would help. Is it common to have the brake pads jam (by rust or other)? Caliper jamming? Caliper jammed but not leaking? Land mines to watch for on dis-assembly - ie - wear plates breaking, bleeder screw snapping, etc. How common does wheel bearings bind without grinding? Differentials binding? Accidental 4 wheel drive engagement while the select switch is on 2wd? I definitely feel a drag like partially holding the brake on at least driving uphill on start up. Driving does have a pulse but it doesn't get worse when using the brake. Some guidance please.

Hello. I have a 03 . Issue on mine ended up being a bad flex brake hose. Did not look bad at all, but inside it developed an issue and was restricting fluid back to the reservoir, and not to the calipers. It acted almost like a one way valve and forced the caliper to be stuck intermittently especially after was driven for a while. This is what I used " Autozone

Duralast Brake Hose 71099"​

 

[Bob G]

Also had the same problem on my '03. It was a bad brake hose. When I removed them, they fell to the ground like a wet noodle.

 

[texasscot]

Update, got the caliper off. No other complications, turning the c-clamps were still a little hard. It felt like something was slowing down the fluid flow. Could be I'm just not used to this yet. Wheel without caliper turned around smoothly and it still is connected to the differential (shaft to transfer case is spinning). Still has meat on the pads, the inner one is the same amount of meat as well (picture).
Since the caliper put up a fight at the beginning I'm forced to throw out the idea this is just a return spring missing problem. Good brake fluid was used when I had the brake line re-placed to the rear. I did not bleed the front brakes (don't fix what ain't broke kind of thing). I'm possibly paying for that now although missing wear guides and inner return spring(s?) does help that line of thought. Any way I'm shopping for the best combination of parts. Screen shots of what I found so far. Any good or bad thoughts ???

To my knowledge there are no return springs in these calipers and I’ve never seen them on any I've worked on. Pad backing off from the rotor is accomplished by the partial distortion of the square section brake piston seals. come to think of it if they’re in bad shape then a rebuild would be in order as it may contribute to pads dragging. This is not hard at all but I wouldn’t recommend splitting the caliper as that potentially introduces some safety concerns and I don’t know why that would be necessary. I’ve rebuilt XJS and air cooled 911 calipers without subsequent “incident” and I’m the definition of a shade tree mechanic.

 

[Vincent Vega]

To my knowledge there are no return springs in these calipers and I’ve never seen them on any I've worked on. Pad backing off from the rotor is accomplished by the partial distortion of the square section brake piston seals. come to think of it if they’re in bad shape then a rebuild would be in order as it may contribute to pads dragging. This is not hard at all but I wouldn’t recommend splitting the caliper as that potentially introduces some safety concerns and I don’t know why that would be necessary. I’ve rebuilt XJS and air cooled 911 calipers without subsequent “incident” and I’m the definition of a shade tree mechanic.

@texasscot Yes, and rebuild kits are available from rock auto, partsgeek, and others. $5-10 for new seals per caliper, hard to beat that.

 

[Lee_H]

I ordered replacement brake hoses w banjo bolts and washers from our favorite "rock" store.
As far as the spring thing goes there is a spring attached to a post on the pad against the pistons. Not sure where the other end goes, I guess somewhere a video would show this. The outside anti-rattle spring is the easy one to see and I guess it doesn't do much returning. Anyway I have the Expedition staying in the driveway for the time being.

 

[texasscot]

I ordered replacement brake hoses w banjo bolts and washers from our favorite "rock" store.
As far as the spring thing goes there is a spring attached to a post on the pad against the pistons. Not sure where the other end goes, I guess somewhere a video would show this. The outside anti-rattle spring is the easy one to see and I guess it doesn't do much returning. Anyway I have the Expedition staying in the driveway for the time being.

I need to check out mine for these springs. I also need to check my brake lines as I’ve ignored those so far, in fact they are probably the only original parts of the truck lol.
Best of luck!

 

[Speed 330]

As far as replacing brake items in pairs this is my normal mode of operation, thanks for the reminder.

I was planning to retrack the calipers by slow c-clamp. Is there any one way springs to watch for?
I'm use to car free floating calipers that will back off with a little pressure.
Is this what I'm going to find or should I watch a particular video (you tube?) to get the details?

I'm hoping for a jammed pad that a set of new pads (both sides) replaced and clean up the calipers.

I'm finding even NAPA has only rebuilt calipers for these vehicles, same for Auto z, advanced, rock auto and amazon. I had no idea Pep Boys is now repair only (in NJ) - no parts.

I remember rebuilding drum brake cylinders on the wheels way back when, broke a lot of bleeder screws too (that is the start of my liking with anti seize stuff).

Any recommendations on brand if it comes to rebuilt only with steep core charges?

Ford still offers that brake caliper new you can find it not that expensive

 

[Hamfisted]

To my knowledge there are no return springs in these calipers and I’ve never seen them on any I've worked on. Pad backing off from the rotor is accomplished by the partial distortion of the square section brake piston seals. come to think of it if they’re in bad shape then a rebuild would be in order as it may contribute to pads dragging. This is not hard at all but I wouldn’t recommend splitting the caliper as that potentially introduces some safety concerns and I don’t know why that would be necessary. I’ve rebuilt XJS and air cooled 911 calipers without subsequent “incident” and I’m the definition of a shade tree mechanic.

There are most definitely return springs on the calipers. The problem is, so many repair shops leave them off when replacing pads, 'cause they can't figure out how they go back on. New return springs come in caliper hardware kits at Rock Auto if you find yourself needing to replace missing parts.


Expedition Disc Brake Hardware Kits at Rock Auto


The piston return springs are circled in blue below ....










.

 

[texasscot]

There are most definitely return springs on the calipers. The problem is, so many repair shops leave them off when replacing pads, 'cause they can't figure out how they go back on. New return springs come in caliper hardware kits at Rock Auto if you find yourself needing to replace missing parts.


Expedition Disc Brake Hardware Kits at Rock Auto


The piston return springs are circled in blue below ....

View attachment 73045








.

Thanks Mr Hamfisted! I live and learn! I have done all my brakes but it was a while ago. I need to do an inspection. There really is nothing you do not know about these vehicles! Kudos.

 

[Lee_H]

Brake job is mostly done. I still have some sponginess on the brake pedal. I did take some pictures, the bright parts are the new ones. Most trouble is still with the connection to the anti-skid block. The new stainless brake line was put in from the kit I ordered when fixing the rear brake lines. It continues to wet (slight leak) on the block top. Tried to re-position and re-tighten at least a dozen times. It seems to have stopped for now. The other side does not have the new line installed. I will have to wait, the line snakes around the whole front engine compartment. I found a video showing how to place the return spring on the caliper side brake pad. So the springs are back at work. I noticed that the brake pads had some blue junk on them, I assumed it was some anti-noise stuff. The brand is bendix with a fleet brake pads being semi metallic. I don't like the feel of ceramic pads, it seems like I'm standing on them to stop all the time. The mentioning of lube while assembly. I mostly use anti-seiz as a part lub as well as the threaded parts. Next: I'll take some short trips to see if the brakes need to be "broken in" a bit before bleeding them again. I did replace the brake hoses if the pictures don't show that well.