I wouldn't let pep or any other shop like that touch a vehicle let alone look at it. I would take it to a Ford dealership before them and I never go to a stealership...
Loose plug starts out sounding like exhaust manifold leak...ticking at idle at a drive through window and you can hear it well. It keeps progressing over time until....you need the steel insert if not taken care of sooner. The plug loosens to a point where there are not enough threads left and...
$560 to recharge???...expensive refrigerant??? bahaha. Cans of R134 are $4.95 at Walmart, takes maybe 3-4 cans. Set of gauges less than $100. Too bad you don't live near me, I would charge you Tree fiddy. LOL Seriously, go to a trusted local shop if you don't want to do it yourself. That dealer...
Contact United Radio in NY for their thoughts. They perform most of the electronics repairs for dealers. I ship OEM radios to them for repair or refurb and skip the middleman dealership.
The clicking noise is the gear teeth slipping on the motor gear,..teeth strip and there is the noise. Ford has a bad design all these years with these motors. When the ignition is turned on, the motors try to sync. While doing this if the blend door temp control is all the way to the stops...
Sounds to me that you are pushing it too hard ? These are trucks and not designed for sustained high speed. I think you answered the question as you backed off and the temps dropped.
Yep the classic car stereo shop installs. Hacks. Always a good laugh to see one. When they come into our shop we have to rewire them the correct way. We do public safety vehicle up fits with electronics, lights and communications. Grounding to the battery is an absolute no go with major...
Never, ever, ever, run an equipment or accessory ground back to the battery post always to the vehicle chassis. If the main ground cable has an issue, the equipment/accessory ground will have stater and vehicle loads running through it. I actually seen a customer's vehicle burn up for that...
Every vehicle including off road equipment I own, have never had an internal engine problem, and I have a fleet of both personal and work vehicles. I never let oil changes go beyond 3K or 100 engine hours. Always warm up to operating temperature before driving or using the equipment. Remote...
Fuse it at the battery + post and if worried about a parasitic draw use a relay. I add accessories to vehicles all the time this way in our business and you are correct to ground it to the chassis. I have corrected many installs where the ground went back to the battery - post.
I'm not trying to stir up a poop storm, you may have legit manufacturing issues. I maintain a fleet of vehicles, construction, marine and off road equipment, none of them with any internal engine issues. I am a stickler for warm ups, cool downs, 3K or 100 engine hour oil & filter changes and...
6-7 years on road vehicles then replaced and the "old" batteries used in another piece of equipment until a cell is dead. I just changed a battery that was new in 2003....it's second life was in an air compressor, finally gave up a couple of cells. The Interstate shop was impressed. Keep them...
I want to throw this question out there to all the folks having these internal engine issues....what is the oil change interval, what filters are used and oil type? Is the engine brought up to operating temperature before driven? Is the engine allowed to idle for a few minutes to cool down and...
They are the "experts" let them figure it out and if they mess up it's on them. Not your place to tell them how to do their job. I never had a customer tell me how to wire their vehicle and if they did I would probably ask why they brought it to me when they could do it themselves.....
Also have a look at the vacuum check valve those have been known to have a problem with certain model years. Causes the front locking hubs to either partially or fully engage even when in 2H
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