This kit is really only a small part of the entire project. As stated above, you are certainly going to need the front axle, drive shafts, the rear lift to match, gears (I certainly wouldn't want to turn anything larger than a 37" tire with 3.73 gears) and then all of the "may as well's".
Well the front diff is stationary, so no on that one. With a standard 6" lift the rear shaft is still fine.
I would forget the spacers and torsion keys and just put in a 3" body lift. You're going to all the trouble of installing a suspension lift that keeps all the geometry in line, and...
I'm not aware of anything stock that could just bolt on. Of course you could always fabricate something. Just keep in mind that you're going to need a really big drop ball mount to actually tow something.
I liked having the hitch at the stock location, it was at the perfect step height to...
I think the Ford dealer charged me $250 when I blew a plug.
Since you're not dumping any fuel in to that cylinder, I think you should be safe to drive it to the shop.
Depot and Tractor Supply and Harbor freight all have decent ball mounts in 2" and 4" drops. Tractor supply also has the bigger 6" & 8" drops. (as well as the adjustable ones)
Best thing to do is to set the trailer level (or maybe a bit nose high) and then measure where the tongue is off the...
I think you'll find that towing from the bumper may be too high for a small utility trailer. The back of the trailer may drag. My 5' x 8' bike trailer (with 12" wheels) needs a dropped ball mount to stay relatively level, even when towing with my brother's stock height Sportrac. I used an 8"...
I agree with Tom. Next time the truck is completely warmed up, turn it off and then give the fan a spin by hand. It shouldn't want to spin. (the clutch engages when it's hot)
Selector switch could be bad.
I would also check that the center axle disconnect lever on the axle will move. It's a steel rod going through an aluminum housing and sometimes it will corrode and stick.
Mine was $1010 shipped to Ohio.
Tactical armor group (.com) has pricing on their site for all the available options.
The base bumper isn't that pricey, but it adds up quickly when you start optioning it out.
That was also 8300 lbs when it was new. Heavy towing with a 14 year old truck is going to reveal any weak points or deferred maintenance. Trans cooling is one of the main limiting factors.
I agree, you really do need to check the trans fluid (and engine oil) for signs of moisture.
If you didn't replace the radiator, what exactly did you do to fix the problem?
It just takes some leg work (ok finger work, on the computer) to find wheels.
It's not a popular bolt pattern but it's certainly not impossible to find wheels.
A small start up company isn't the answer. Think about it, a small company with limited resources is going to have to make a wheel...
I guess the real issue isn't adding the turn signal bulb (that's easy), it's stopping the original turn signal from working without compromising the brake light function.
Don't the rear calipers adjust by cycling the e-brake? (Anyone, I can't remember )
Can you verify that rear caliper pistons aren't moving at all when the brake is applied?
Can you see if a brake line has been crushed or bent?
If you're towing, you really do need to pick up a programmer (edge, my preference).
It will drastically improve shifting, and make towing a much more enjoyable experience.
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