If you wish to be relieved of further anguish and painful contortion, you might just connect a permanent
automatic trickle charger with the connecting plug external of the hood for ease of connection.
A nuisance, yes, but it will keep your battery charged at little expense, and effort.
Some more help:
https://baautocare.com/2013/02/19/car-repair-education-and-info-bid-82078-is-your-car-shaking-3-common-problems-that-cause-cars-to-vibrate/
It is possible that the batt cable connections were not tight, or may be slightly corroded.
Removing the cable to reset the PCM solved your problem, but you are concerned with a possible
reoccurrence of the 'no-start' condition. Check for tightness of both batt cables, and clean posts,
if...
:welcome: TO THE FORUM, trader14:
A simple and inexpensive activity would be to replace the flasher unit. May not be your problem, but it is a start.
https://www.autoblog.com/2016/01/19/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-hazard-turn-signal-flasher/
The collision definitely has caused damage to your bulb/s, and wiring (?). Whenever there is rapid flashing, that indicates one, or more, bulbs are not working. Can't answer why the parking/hazards are working, but not the turn signals.
I'm betting your voltage regulator is faulty.
Easy test procedure. Replacing alternator is quite simple. Just pay close attention to wire connections.
Suggested you copy wiring on paper for reference.
Good luck!
https://www.wikihow.com/Test-a-Voltage-Regulator
I'm not savvy enough to provide an answer to your query. All data that I have read regarding a
t-stat by-pass concerns a running engine. I don't know if the by-pass is aware of the difference between a running engine, and a static engine being pressurized.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.