I would ck all the coils. the problem could be one is bad and it is feeding radio freq interference into the pcm. I have not seen this alot but it does happen.
The o2 sensor bank 1 [passenger side] could be the cause. if that is not effective yur description of the throttle change could also indicate an egr system problem possibly the dpfe sensor.
One way to test it is to tap the IAC while it is idling- if the idle goes up replace the IAC. it should idle around 700rpm no less than 600 and no more than 900 [warm].
It is important to note that if your battery has been slowly discharged, like over a few weeks, by normal key off loads then it will take several hours to recharge with a proffesional charger more for average ones.
to test for a draw remove the neg cable and use a good digital amp/meter 10A...
the 5.4 and 4.6 2v engines are near bulletproof if maintained. They can go 300k easy and then many only need the timing chains and guides to keep going. the trans and driveline are generally pretty robust also. Like many have said if it was maintained[oil changes, coolant, trans and diff...
Sorry on the 97 there is a tempsender just for the guage. the sender is on the passenger side front of the intake it has 2 wires red with white and red with yellow. disconnected it should read cold and if you jumper the wires together it should read hot. if it does then the guage is ok and the...
If I understand correctly you cant get the socket on the plug to remove it, going with that I would suggest blowing into the plug well with compressed air. I have also seen dirt and sand packed around the plug and had to use a small pick or screwdriver to reach down and break it up then blow it out.
The fuel filter is part of the pump, sorry . I would consider the trans flush as it also soes the tq convertor. I would ask them to not use any aftermarket chems with it though[waste of money]. these trannies are rated to go 100k miles before service but at your rate that is every year.
I have driven a socket[7mm or 1/4"] onto the broken studs before and turned them out without removing the manifolds. installed a new stud and nut tightened and retested no leak. some studs are not accessible this way though.
usually the valve will hang and the rocker arm comes off, maybe bending the valve. you will need to check the chamber for damage and also make sure the valve seat is ok.
It is possible they can cause a rpm variation as it adjusts. Are you sure the fuel press is not dropping off? use a mechanical guage to test it- it should be 35-45psi at idle and when the gas is pressed it should go up slightly 2-6 psi. if it goes down then the pump cant keep up.
You can test the oil press by disconnecting wire at sender and grounding it- the guage should go to normal IF it stays at the bottom then either the wires or guage is bad ; if it does go to normal then the sender is bad.
the temp guage gets it signal from the pcm [what year is your expy?] so...
DPFE'S are a known problem but I would ck all the hoses and wiring to both the solenoid and the sensor. If you have a diag tool that will read out the sensor readings you can tell which more easily. The coils can go bad at any time even brand new sorry.
those codes are for bank 1 sensor 1 p1131, bank2 sensor 1 1151 and bank1 sensor 2 p0141. p1131 and p1151 mean the engine is running lean on both banks [or both sensors are bad less likely] so look for a large vacuum leak or lack of fuel. the way you describe how it runs it sounds like lack of...
Depends on what you want to use it for. If you haul 3 or more people alot the expy's extra doors and room would be nice, but if you dont need that and you use it off road more the bronco has some advantages like shorter length, tight turning and more lift options at cheaper prices.
the buzzing is the iar compressor and if it does it alot you have a leak probably a front airshock or rear air bag. you can replace the parts or convert it to regular springs [probaly cheaper] if it gets bad.
the brake light can be the fluid level sensor or the parking brake switch
X2 on...
X2 on the wd40 or similiar in latch in hole right under the lower catch. then open and close the door several times. watch the lights, if it works then you will know which door it was.
x2 on the trans service or at least a good antichatter additive
on the cruise ck the deactivation switch on the master cyl for leaks and function. this is the one that was under the recall for starting fires. it should have continuity when the brakes are not on.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.