Looks like coolant to me from where it’s coming from. Check your radiator....my guess is the fluid is pink. Could be tranny cooler, too.
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Your rears look more like my Nivomat self leveling shocks. Do you have a close-up of the part number on them for comparison? I’m hoping the ‘14 rears that I just ordered on EBay are the standard smaller shocks so I can put my Bilstiens in them.
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X2 on the spark plugs. You are due. My exhaust stank bad before I changed my plugs at 84k. As for the noise, that’s tough to tell without a video.
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I want to replace my rear Nivomats with Bilstiens and need to buy some used rear shock assemblies to accomplish this. My question is, what year model rears are compatible to reuse on my ‘15? Are all 3rd Gens going to work?
Mike
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Less rim and more tire is the rule off-road. Serious guys for 4WD want 15” wheels, but probably not for tour Expedition. 20s don’t give you enough rubber between the wheel and rocks off-road, so give with an 18 at most. I’d probably be looking more at 17s if I was going to be in the rocks at...
You should be able to knock off the perch. My 2015 perches came right off.
Unfortunately, I'm stuck with Bilstein rears just sitting in my garage because I didn't realize that I had Nivomat rears on mine. Now I'm wondering which will be better for heavy towing. Replace the rears with stock...
Did you take the line off after the solenoid, where it begins its trip down to the IWEs and test it from there with just a hand pump tester? (with the engine off). This will test the actual IWEs and whether they are holding. Your description sounds like you are testing the actual vacuum being...
If you want to learn everything about your IWE 4WD system (and more than you want to know), this is a good post. I found this when I had my first exposure to IWE problems in my 2015 F150. All of it is relevant to your Expedition. These things haven't changed...
You should be able to hold between 20-24 psi. If the gauge drops over a 5 minute hold, then you have an iwe leaking. They are on the same main line, so you would have a hard time telling which one is leaking. If they fail the test, just replace both of them.
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You could test if the iwe is losing seal by hooking a vacuum tester up to the line. If it holds, your iwe isn’t the culprit.
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I had this problem on an older Chevy pickup. I removed the ABS module, cracked it open and re-soldered all of the connections. No more lights. The vibration at the module causes the solder points to loosen up.
Mike
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I can’t say for sure unless the leak is bad enough that the hubs are actually engaged when it’s cold and eventually start holding vacuum when the seals get warmed up a bit and then begin to disengage some. Just a guess
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I would put money on it being the iwe still. Try putting it in 4WD and see if it goes away. Sometimes the iwe itself loses seal and tries to engage.
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With 84k miles, you may be looking at needing spark plugs with that misfire. I experienced a misfire at 85k and plugs fixed me right up.
Mike
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Nevermind, after over a week of driving, the symptoms haven’t appeared again and no codes. I think it was an aging code from before the plugs that was still there.
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Got the new Dormans installed with no problem. No more grinding. The only thing that moderately concerns me long-term is whether there is any transfer case wear that can occur with the front shaft always turning with the 4A case, but still in 2WD. I tried a spin test on the ice on the way home...
However, nothing should be moving in the differential to make a sound if the IWEs are unlocked and the shafts aren’t spinning, right? With mine, it completely goes away in 4WD. I’ll be putting in the new IWEs with vacuum delete today. I’ve been driving with the vacuum disconnected with no noise...
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