Motorcraft is the general consensus yea. They have aluminum threads and work best with our aluminum heads. Spark plugs are a hot topic and cause a lot of issues. Do a search here and read about blow outs, and stripping of threads.
Well your flow is restricted somehow.... with all that you have already done, I would think the pump may be the culprit. Either that or you have a restriction somewhere that only lets a little coolant trickle by....thus the flush suggestion. Flush again? Change pump? Both? Your call I guess.
I use mobil 1 in all my vehicles including the motorcycle and lawn mower. After using something like seafoam, I will change the oil (not filter), put in some cheap dino oil and run it for 100 or so miles then change it again, along with a new filter, to Mobil 1 again. Oil changes are your friend...
1997/98
148,xxx miles. My tach does not work. I bought this from a salvage yard to test my truck. Still no tach but the tach does work on this cluster. My issue is not resolved but must be a broken pink/white wire that sends signal to the tach.
The salvage yard would not take back electrical...
Why did you get new keys? Couldn't you get 1.5" out of the stock keys? I'm sure you know, but ideally the axles will be straight and the more angle you put in them, the more stress it puts on the CV joint.... if you are wearing the boots, man it must be a steep angle it seems.....
That sounds like a good offer to me! You should shop around a bit and see what you can get for that money. Try Craigslist or use Search Tempest to search Craigslist like I do
Ok I changed the cluster with one that I got from a salvage yard. The new cluster worked just fine except for the tach. Still a no go. Must be a broken wire..... At least I have eliminated that now. Hope they will take the cluster back!
I agree. 97 and 98 are compatible with each other and that's it. They have the analog odometer. 99 and up are digital and have some pats installed in the newer ones. I just recently talked to a bunch of dealer service departments and received a different answer each time. (go figure) One manager...
I never understood the "Cold Air Intake" kits. In stock form, air is pulled from inside the fender where it is isolated from the warmer engine environment. The Gotts mod still incorporates this by maintaining the stock air draw placement but improving its volume. With the cold air kits, you are...
Check these out
http://www.f150online.com/forums/electrical-systems/240766-electrical-short-error-message.html
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t10199017-just_bought_2003_ford_f150_warning
I would like to be able to leave the rear hatch open for extended periods but don't want the dome lights on. I assume the wiring is in the latch in the door.... right? Anyone know what wire I would switch to disable the dome light?
I had a vehicle years ago that had similar symptoms and the + battery cable was shorting to the frame as the engine rocked from torque. Just a thought.
Well that's pretty strange cause I can see them fine. I use Fire Fox normally. I just tried Google Chrome and IE. In both cases I could not see the pics until I logged in then I could. Obviously you are logged in since you posted.
Can you guys see my signature pic?
There are 2 nice pics of his truck in the first post with the new wheels. Looks to be pics he uploaded to the forum as well. Do you have him blocked for some reason? Nice wheels by the way!!
Here is one of them.....
And here's the other one....
Lift front end off the ground, grab tire on both sides and try to move it side to side. If there is wear/play you will feel it 'chuck' a little. Observe components while doing this to determine what is worn. Also check for grease fittings if some things have been replaced. They may just need...
If the core is hot, the lines are hot, and the blower is working you should have heat. How did you determine that the core is hot? How did you determine the blend door was working? Usually if both heater hoses are HOT the core should be too. If only one is hot there would be a restriction in the...
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