As noted, the air from the floor vents is heating things up. I’ve noticed the same issue, but not enough to be concerned. It seems like with the seats folded down, there isn’t a lot of air flow.
solution is to turn down the rear heat - once the engine is up to temp, HI is very hot! - and speed...
I’ll also say, practice with what you have. See how the vehicle behaves under different conditions in snow and ice (slowly of course). Different vehicles and tire combinations behave differently. You need to know the difference in behavior between braking turning, accelerating, and how much you...
I think you’d be fine towing what you have, but it puts a max limit on what you may want to tow in the future. I wish I had the max tow - for an optional future capability - but it works for the next few years.
the drawback is cost: I believe the max tow, and ‘off road’ packages are in demand...
@Fozzy, what Rigid lights did you get? I have the SDHQ mounts but no lights. What was your purpose for them? Spot, broad beam or combination? Have any opinions?
Vehicle reliability (as well as functionality) has increased magnitudes. So, a new vehicle today can be twice as unreliable as the competition, and still be magnitudes better than a few years ago.
the article doesn’t put any numbers or anything on ‘reliability’. Does consumer reports? I don’t...
I just replaced a tire, then rotated it to the rear. It took about 5 minutes of driving for it to show the correct location.
Interestingly, I had the spare on with no sensor for about 45 minutes before it showed a tire warning (dashes shown in that location).
Designers must "...make the integration a bit crappy on the low-end models and good on the high end..."
Also, it isn't about the mechanics of the physical screen: you cannot just plant a big screen in there and call it good 'cos Tesla does it. It is all about the UX. The Cadillac integration...
I have SumoSprings on OEM shocks and springs and could not measure a difference in ride height on an unloaded truck. Did not measure with a loaded trailer. Do not feel any impact while driving.
180w?! For an LED? That doesn’t seem right, especially for the price. That is 10s of thousands of lumens (18000 lumens as a rough guess). Sounds too good to be true, I must say. (I was being a bit facetious with the 2 amps, but 15a seems a lot: maybe it’s true. I’d but an ammeter on it, myself)...
What makes you think you need 12 gauge wire? I can’t see the light pulling more than a couple of amps, in which case 16 gauge (or even 18/20) is more than plenty. Is it a high ampage light?
Good quality LEDs are much, much better than the stock bulbs. If you drive in the city, or suburban areas, you may not see such a big difference. Rural areas with little to no lighting, except the moon and stars, you will see a great improvement.
I disagree. There's no real reason to add resistors when you can easily disable the hyperflash with a computer and USB to OBD cable (which also opens up a lot of other possibilities). Even if you do not disable the 'hyperflash', the bulbs flash at the correct rate.
That might work. A bit pricey, and do not need Bluetooth. I just ordered some capacitors, to see if that will solve the relay chatter.
Also, the relay only chatters while engine is running, not with just the ignition.
Good news/bad news situation on this:
* The connector is on the back of the housing, and you can't get to it from the top (removing the plastic panel along the front of the engine bay) or bottom (through the wheel well) without tiny hands - it's below the turn/drl bulb. The left/drivers side...
Yes. You don't necessarily need a resistor: the outside light(s) flash at the correct rate, but the inside indicator hyperflashes. You can eliminate this hyperflash using Forescan. I used iBrightstar bulbs, and they work OK.
I have a Setina police pusher bar. Doesn’t wrap around the lights, but bolts on in 4 places and protects (hopefully) the functional bits in a collision.
There’s a connector behind the wheel well for each light (remove the fender liner as if you were replacing a bulb on the halogen equipped vehicles). According to the drawing it’s a 4 pin connector: marker, low, high and ground. The drawing says it’s 22gauge with 20gauge for the ground.
the only...
I upgraded to LEDs in the projectors a few moths ago, and high beams to LED this weekend. The projectors are much better, and the old halogen high beam seemed weak in comparison.
I was going to add additional lighting to increase the full beam, but with the LED upgrade, it is probably not...
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