If you had radio controls in the rear of the center console the problem could be there. The rear speakers run through there. You'll need to disassemble the center console to check the connectors and speaker wires.
So we have finally worn through the outside edge of the driver seat on our 2004. At 316k miles it's no surprise, even more so considering I had to slide out for about 10yrs due to substantial physical issues. The rest of the leather looks nearly new. The vinyl on the outside of the driver...
I always cut and solder wires and yet I still have occasional incorrect response so it may not be your t-tap. I've always been suspect of the single wire control.
Check the Crutchfield.com web site. They will likely have an option or 2.
For my 2004 I used the Crux SWRFD-60L Wiring Interface for the steering wheel controls. It works okay, not perfect.
I spent some time looking for the part # with no luck. That said even if you find the part number it's unlikely you'll a new one available. I'd try a salvage yard for one. There's a good chance the recliner handle from a 2003-2006 model will fit it and I believe they are all black.
Checking the integrity of the wires from connector to connector is a good place to start. Checking the integrity of the PCV tube and elbow(back of intake) is easy and free so may as well check that too. I do agree the PCV is not the likely cause of the O2 sensor issue though.
For the parts...
Way to persevere. It can be tough to return to a big project after a lengthy delay like your wrist.
I sure do miss manual transmissions. Even after 30yrs of autos in my daily driver I still think they suck.
What's really cool is that with a boot it will look stock and that is generally not...
I have this for my Kenwood head unit, Crux SWRFD-60L Wiring Interface. The steering wheel controls work okay. Sometimes the volume up button will change to the next song or radio station. Best thing I can recommend is to call Crutchfield. They will guide you right and they will be there...
I was hoping to have replaced my intake over either of the last 2 weekends. Unfortunately that was not to be and it looks like my next opportunity will be in June. Sorry to say I can't help with the bolt info right now.
I didn't think we had a steering angle sensor, I thought that was only on electric power steering. I got nothin' much to offer. Here's the location and connector/wire colors.
I may be too late, but you can jack up the lower control arm to help hold the upper ball joint stud. Don't lift the truck off the jack stand though. Or maybe even a ratchet strap to pull the upper control arm down to the spindle. A pry bar sounds like a good idea, but you already tried that...
Here's an option. I have a new one from this listing in my garage for my 2004 that has a very slow leak at the same crossover location. I was about to go aftermarket.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/177100803916
I couldn't tell which radio Kell was referring to. In case it was the JVC he asked about. Page 79 in the manual, available on the Crutchfield website.
https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20100325131400/Manuals/105/105AVX830.PDF
I did try Marvel Mystery Oil(MMO) in my fuel as @Hamfisted suggested. I only had a tank and half run through, but it did seem to improve the accuracy of the fuel level sender. It did not fully resolve my issue, but did it dramatically improve. On the first complete fill up with MMO it showed...
Really excellent info and pics @Broncoholic . Your memory is better than mine, I didn't even remember the clips that hold the board into under the front cover.
Any tint can help reduce how much interior temps rise from sunlight. But it won't actually cool it down, the best it can do is help keep the inside temp the same as the outside temp. A/C will obviously cool the air.
I have 50% ceramic tint on my 2004 front door windows and factory tint on all...
Good point kep5niner. I have actually gotten the cruise buttons working without disassembly. Just spraying QD Electronic Cleaner through the straw under the buttons seems to do the trick without any damage.
Exactly as Broncoholic explains, just get a small tube of electrical flux as well. It helps ensure a good clean connection with the new solder. It only takes a little bit of flux.
Plumbing flux will ruin the circuit board, it must be electrical flux.
Yep, exiting the diag mode was the easy part. I was pretty amazed at how much trouble it gave me to get it into diag mode. It's been working fine for 7 weeks now thankfully.
I am a stubborn SOB and I will just beat the heck out of something until I figure it out.
@kep5niner You'll understand...
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