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  1. stamp11127

    A/C is warm

    You would still get at least some cooling with contaminated refrigerant but the pressures would be off. I'm still interested in what the rear air is doing plus the static pressure once the engine has cooled off. If there is air in the system it would need to be evacuated again. I would do that...
  2. stamp11127

    Refrigerant with "Sealer"?

    DO NOT USE SEALER! That crap will plug the recovery machine at the very least. One of our students had it in his system and kept quiet about it. Not only did it plug all the filters it took out the solenoid block inside the machine. Even with multiple cleanings with ac flush the sealer stuck...
  3. stamp11127

    Weird problem

    Add in an aux relay in place of the starter relay and save some bucks. The 03/04's are known to also kill the fuel pump relay in that great idea Ford had with the sjb.
  4. stamp11127

    A/C is warm

    The evap and lines should be very cold with that pressure reading. Run the system for 5 minutes. Increase rpms to 2500 and note what the low and high side pressures read. You should see the low pressure drop as the rpms increase, high side should also increase but not a crazy amount. When you...
  5. stamp11127

    A/C is warm

    The ir temp guns need to be right up on the lines to get an actual reading. As you move back it averages a larger area. Gauges say the evap temp is around the mid 40's so how can the low side line read 125? Condenser is around 175-200 degrees. Are you reading the metal on the accumulator or the...
  6. stamp11127

    A/C is warm

    I'll look at the plenum layout after work and answer your question. Also in reply #11 you stated no condensate or dripping but recently said it stopped. Can't have both.
  7. stamp11127

    2008 Expedition XLT AC issues

    As has been stated multiple times in multiple threads - we need to know the operating pressures to start the diagnosis. Your local parts stores usually loan/rent a gauge set or you can pick a cheapy at Harbor Freight.
  8. stamp11127

    A/C is warm

    Another thing to check would be the plenum drain. If it is plugged the plenum will fill up with water until it overflows into the cabin. This really kills cooling performance since the evap is in water.
  9. stamp11127

    A/C is warm

    Pressures are better, vent temp hasn't changed so that means you have one or two things going on. 1) Evap is dirty and not transferring heat to the refrigerant and cold air to the cabin. Tar from cigs will clog the evap over time. Any smokers own the vehicle in the past? 2) Heat is blending...
  10. stamp11127

    New to Fords, a few interesting electrical quirks and advice needed

    Electrical 101: You can't see the electrons flowing but you can see the results of it. Pulling fuses is a waste of time - can you tell if they are powered by doing so? If you can without any tools you will be the only one on the planet that can! Read the stickys in the electrical section on how...
  11. stamp11127

    A/C is warm

    He is only chasing this because he doesn't have a recycle/recovery machine, did previous work and then stopped. If he did have an R/R then the diagnosis would be quick - unless there was a leak. With those it can take a few hours to find. And repairs like this can run around $2000+
  12. stamp11127

    A/C is warm

    Getting closer. Make sure you have the EATC on max, you should be able to see a door under the dash open/close as it is cycled on or off. There is usually a change in fan speed with that mode. Have you tried the box fan yet? Clamp off one of the heater hoses so there isn't any coolant flow...
  13. stamp11127

    A/C is warm

    Something to think about. The refrigerators of today also use r134a. Would you be happy with 55 degrees in the box with a house temp of 80? Who wants to drink warm beer?
  14. stamp11127

    A/C is warm

    That is the "non New Yorker" r134a chart. I use a different chart that I call the "Jesus" chart. If my wife hasn't said "Jesus it's cold in here" the a.c. isn't working properly. Plus I'm a transplanted New Yorker..... We have the students under charge, normal charge and over charge a system...
  15. stamp11127

    A/C is warm

    Pressures are still too high. Low should be in the 30's. Make sure the fan clutch is working correctly, if not pressures will be high. If you have a shop fan place it in front of the condensor and see if the high side drops. I'm also assuming the fan shroud is in place.
  16. stamp11127

    A/C is warm

    RockAuto lists a cabin air filter for the 1999. I would have a look at that before proceeding with anything else. If it isn't clogged then I would reduce the system charge slightly.
  17. stamp11127

    A/C is warm

    I would use your reclaiming machine and recover a little of the refrigerant......I can't tell you to blow a hole in the ozone layer if you don't have a machine though. That will lower both the low and high side pressures. Here are your capacity amounts: 1998-2002 All Engines w/ Front & Rear AC...
  18. stamp11127

    A/C is warm

    The high side is good, low side it way too high for my liking. What does the low side read if you run the rpms up? What is the accumulator doing as far as temp goes? The orifice tube may be letting too much refrigerant into the evap or the evap may be clogged and not getting enough airflow...
  19. stamp11127

    Low pressure AC switch???

    Hey John, it was 89 here today while the students were working on a Peterbuilt's AC system. Low side was 37, high side was 225 when running. I would say you can drop your temps/pressures more.
  20. stamp11127

    A/C is warm

    Readings need to be taken with the blower on high, recirc mode & temp setting on cold. If the readings stay at 55/379 the system is most likely overcharged or the cooling fan isn't working, radiator and condenser are loaded with trash. The pressures you have are way too high. We start worrying...
  21. stamp11127

    A/C is warm

    Refrigeration is based on pressures and temps. We need to know the low & high side pressures after running for 10 minutes. And also the ambient temp at the same time. If you have pressure in either cap when you remove it the service port is leaking. Did you use AcPro with sealer from Walmart?
  22. stamp11127

    Low pressure AC switch???

    Only found it as part of the expansion valve. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=380414&cc=1411119&jsn=1166&jsn=1166&jsn=1166
  23. stamp11127

    2008 Limited AC cuts on high setting

    The EATC uses a blower motor control module instead of the traditional resistor pack. A few of the parts vendors have the module named wrong. Most of the non OEM modules are under rated and have a high failure rate. Only real option is to use the Ford module.
  24. stamp11127

    Low pressure AC switch???

    It will be in the low pressure line somewhere between the evap and compressor. Of course Ford is going to stick it in the worse place. Depending on what the ambient temp was when you took the static pressure reading, 120 may be way too high.
  25. stamp11127

    Can't figure out these AC problems

    No, would have to measure them to be sure.

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