No power on pin 11 tells you there is one problem between the fuse 102 and the central junction box at pin 11. The ignition switch is between those two points. But you haven't proven it has failed yet.
At the plug for the ignition switch, jump pin 4 to pin 7 - this is the same as turning the ign...
Go back over reply #17, all the steps on how to test are there. The test light will provide a path to ground and complete the circuit to that point. When you get to a point where there isn't power, the test light will not light and the problem will be located between the last place you did have...
Since the starter cranked the engine when you jumped 30 to 87 that tells you the high current side of the starter relay circuit is working correctly. The problem lies on the control side of the circuit. Test time to find out where you have power and where you don't in that circuit.
OK, so one test before doing the above steps. Pull the starter relay in the central junction box. Using a jumper wire, jump 30 to 87. If the starter works then the issue is on the control side of the starter relay. If it doesn't then it is on the high current side.
In your first post you state when you jump the starter it cranks. Where are you jumping it at?
You can use a meter or test light to follow the path the electricity follows starting at fuse 102. I use sewing needles inserted into connectors as test points instead of poking holes in the wire...
Slightly better. Looking at CBJtoPCM_DTR_STARTPDF.pdf are you able to read and understand the drawing? The answer will determine how detailed I need to make future replies. Also do you understand the difference between series and parallel connections?
I won't have access to wiring diagrams until I go back to work in August. Until then if another member could post the power distrubution diagrams we can get started with tracing the circuits. If no one posts them, you can get them off ebay in dvd form.
Two options:
1) Inspection time then. For that fuse block I would expect a circuit board with copper traces similar to what is used on the smart junction boxes. I would expect a burned trace. Usually can be repaired with soldering on a wire over the burned section.
2) Using a wiring diagran or...
I doubt you will get many answers to your issue. The one thing with electric problems is most people shy away from fixing them since they don't understand the "magic" of electricity.
Battery at 100% soc is 12.6v
Charging voltage engine running @1500 rpm is 13.5 - 14.5 v
Amp output is dependent on the alternator rating but should fall between 110 - 200 amps. You'll need a DC Amp clamp for that reading.
Acceptable voltage drop is .5 v total for both positive & negative sides...
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