Inside the starter solenoid there are two coils. One is the pull in coil/winding the other is the hold-in coil/winding. Their job is to move the drive gear out to mesh with the ring gear then send power into the starter windings. In order for them to work correctly they need full battery voltage.
In order to be running lean one of two conditions must exist - starving for fuel or an air leak on the intake system. A smoke test is the easiest and fastest way to find a vac leak.
A remote start switch will put +12 volts on the S terminal, you can do the same as a test. But the lower voltage is most likely the problem. It shouldn't have any voltage drop.
Welcome to the site. Best advice I can give you is to get the factory service manual (includes wiring diagrams) off ebay. Usually less than $20 for the cd/dvd.
Once you know what wires need replacing, I'd hit the local junk yard for good replacements.
The "S" terminal powers the two coils inside the solenoid. When you jump S to M you are supplying power to the starter and overloading the wiring for the S circuit. Lucky for you the starter is only freewheeling and not under a load.
Disconnect the wiring to the S terminal. Check for power...
Nope, a fully charged battery will bring the specific gravity of the electroyle back to 1.265. Age doesn't matter.
During the discharge cycle sulfate is produced and deposited on the two different lead plates. During charging it is removed and mixed back into the water of the electroyte...
Where did the alternator come from?
Battery basics:
The electrolyte is made up of H2SO4 - sulfuric acid and distilled water. It will have a specific gravity of 1.265 at 80F. Add .84 to that to get the cell voltage reading for 100% charge. That equals 2.105v. Six cells will total 12.65v at 100%...
Any competent repair shop will have an EST (electronic service tool) that will capture live data. If they don't then they are parts tossers at best.
Any OEM dealer that has to schedule repairs that far in advance indicates to me to find another one.
Do you have any performance shops near you...
You can force codes by recreating the conditions necessary that produces the stumble or lack of power. Once it starts having issues just keep it occurring until it logs the codes. If it doesn't then the engine is operating with in parameters. In that case it would be something the pcm doesn't...
Welcome to the site.
Until you have active codes the list of "could be's" is a mile long. How many miles are on the clock? What maintenance and repair work has been done in the past? How many miles on the "new" plugs, which brand?
How hot are the cats (are they plugged)? And the list goes...
No way in hell the battery can put out 19 volts unless the electrolyte has been "kicked up a couple of notches" raising the acid/water ratio.
If the engine is running and you read 19 volts charging, I would verify the meter is correct by testing another vehicle's battery with the engine off...
Welcome to intermittent electrical issues.
On the 2007 I worked on a few years ago there are 48 connections on the control circuit that will inhibit starting. Most of them are safety related. If you plan on hunting it down you will need patience. I'm going to assume the 2008 is as bad as the...
The relays are normally wired so that 86/85 are the control portion of the relay while 30-87-87a are on the load(high current) side. 30 is usually the input.
Control input is usually 86 while the output is 85. Check the voltage on 86 to ground while trying to start with the relay removed. If it...
12.2 volts is 50% state of charge on the battery. You have a draw on it that is higher than normal. Hopefully the dealer will do a parasitic draw test and find what is staying on.
Welcome to the site.
Check the driver floor board for wet carpet. If so, your windshield leaks and floods the GEM. First step would be to reseal the windshield.
A quick Google search came up with these:
https://www.bodykits.com/i-24260516-ford-expedition-sportsman-taillight-guards-39-3075.html
Rather hard on the pocket book for just looks and tree grabbers.
Wiring diagram for the starter circuit.
Circuit 2037 may be the cable that connects to B on the starter solenoid.
Circuit 1118 may connect to the S terminal. If it does you should see 12v with key in the start position.
If you apply +12v to the S terminal you should hear and feel the drive...
If the M terminal connects the relay to the positive lug on the starter that is pointing to the contact disc in the relay is bad. To verify do another vd test on the large studs of the starter relay. Red lead will go on the stud that connects the cable to the positive battery post, the black...
Need to know where you placed both meter leads for each measurement. Readings are taken with key at start position - circuit has to be energized.
For instance:
Source voltage: 12.2v
Red lead on battery + post
Black lead on top large starter relay lug
VD of xxx
Welcome to the site. If you have the true OEM manual with wiring diagrams it doesn't "suck". Don't think what may be the problem, diagnose it then prove the part is faulty before condemning it.
Since it only starts with the starter relay jumped that is pointing to a problem with the control...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.