Hit the starter with a hammer about mid section on the body. Need one good wack then try to start again. If it doesn't start then it is time to voltage drop test the circuits. Do you understand what he is doing in the 2nd video? If not, what do you need help with?
According to the manual it does isolate the two batteries - see page 4 of the manual. I'd be inclined to go with the lithium ion battery if cost isn't a factor.
I hope you are going to use a battery isolator otherwise one battery will end up being overcharged.
Engine compartment would be the easiest and require the least cable.
12 volts dc is smoke then fire, higher voltages will go from tingle to a job opening (yours) depending on how high the voltage is.
I had a student grab on to a string of 9v batteries that were in series to produce @288 volts. He found out at that voltage the human body is a conductor. Ended up...
While you are learning the theory of how this works you may want to invest in a decent dmm (digital multi meter). That way instead of saying the battery is low you could say a specific voltage.
Once you have a meter, tell us the battery voltage and what it drops to when trying to start.
Welcome to the site. Your best bet would be to learn how the starter circuit works instead of listing a bunch of "could be this or could be that".
Eric the Car Guy is a good place to start:
This is a good one on how to test the circuit without turning any wrenches. Plus this is what I hammer...
Welcome to the site.
It would be better &cheaper to diagnose the cause of the code instead of tossing parts. Have you proven an O2 sensor failure?
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0150
Not as an insult but make sure there is oil in the pan. Pretty sad if the "new way" of priming an engine is with an external pump. To me that would indicate a crappy pump design.
As stated fill the filter, prime with an external pump, install a mechanical gauge and fire it up. You should have...
Usually no oil pressure on the gauge while cranking. I also doubt you will see any oil spraying on the valve train. Once the engine cranks up it will be a different story.
During the old days we would prime the oil galleys with the distributor out and a power drill with a home made attachment...
One of the first lessons learned when turning wrenches is to check the new part against the old - for size, shape, construction etc. Even then don't toss it when the job is completed.
Not to many Navi owners on here. There is one currently being "Baptized" with some engine repair which should be an interesting read for you.
https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/compression-test-01-navigator.40411/page-5#post-361482
Dash gauges are junk. You need to use a good mechanical gauge to get an actual pressure reading.
If you had an oscilloscope you could check the waveform to see if there are timing changes between having the solenoid plugged in vs unplugged. Then you would know if it is actuating or not.
The idea is to determine the origin of the leak - more the better since it will be easier to hear.
Hear it in the intake it is an intake valve.
Hear it in the crankcase it is rings or hole in the piston.
Hear it in the tail pipe then it is an exhaust valve.
When you are turning the engine I...
The sensor has to work in order for the pcm to determine that the cam timing is off. So replacing the sensor was a waste of time & money.
If the sensor was malfunctioning it would result in an error/code that would indicate implausible data or no data received.
For the timing to be retarded the...
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