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  1. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    The biggest misconception is the feeling of the hoses to see if they are hot. First, the factory OEM hoses are VERY well insulated, thick and beefy and keep the heat well within the hose. As I posted earlier in the thread I could hold the hose no problem for a min or so until it was just a...
  2. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    Had the car serviced at oil change place. Had oil and filter changed and saw they had a coolant "changer" machine. Its not a "flush" with pressure rather only works by vacuum. They stick a 3/4" tube in the degas tank and reach down to the tube coming up from the lower radiator hose. They suck it...
  3. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    It still bothers me with this heat thing. Why BOTH front and rear heaters are blowing only luke warm air. The only thing in common is the water flow from the water pump and I KNOW I got flow and good pressure when I rev it from when I tried to bypass the reducer valve which is now back in. It...
  4. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    Where is the blend door for the rear? I can't imaging I have two bad doors but at least I should be able to get heat from that one and check it easier no? just ordered DVD on Ebay Thanks
  5. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    ALL FUSES GOOD Checked both under the dash and in engine compartment. Now if I have water flow, hoses are hot, why would BOTH front and rear heaters just be luke warm? There isn't a blend door for the rear unit. And if there was by some chance, both go bad? Why is the temp just warm and...
  6. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    I only run it in manual. I never use automatic. I said "I Guess" cuz I can't see it but can feel the obvious temp difference when I lower the temp (manually) and feel the blend door opening as the cold air comes in. I was referring to when "I" change the temp controls I can feel the cold air...
  7. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    Ok, here is what I tackled just now.... I cut the heater line and removed the heater flow restrictor part of the line with a few inches of heater hose I bought at the auto parts store. I started up the car and within a few min I could not touch the part of the line I put in. Obviously the...
  8. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    I don't have an IR gun, but on days that it is working I can hold the heater lines for maybe 20 seconds till it gets uncomfortable, maybe 30 seconds if I "try to be a man" LOL... I wouldn't say its anything close to "blistering", but it does get hot enuff that I let go. I would say on average I...
  9. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    ****** UPDATE ****** 12 degrees this morning.... NO (or poor) HEAT OBD says temps are 192-199 while driving... it might seem that I was getting more heat from the vents if I was holding RPMS at 1500 to 2000 or surging but maybe that was wishful thinking, I dunno. Is there a way to test water...
  10. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    195
  11. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    I have owned the car since new. Remote started the car in winter and melted several inches of snow off the car and even melted some on the roof. Just from idle starting it once and then again a second time. Now I run the car for an hour straight buttoned up tight and its 80 at best? Only when...
  12. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    I saw and felt it. You can almost see it in the hose bulging a tiny bit. I thought it was something in the hose to keep the "bend in it". I knew it was a metal insert and not a clog and obviously from the factory and didn't think to mention it. I read the thread and it said that it was needed...
  13. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    OK, I swapped out the T-Stat and it wasn't that bad. When I took the hose off it appeared to be closed because when I popped out the O-ring it started to come up from the block. Upper hose appeared to be full as almost half or a full gallon spilled out from it. No debris or sludge or any...
  14. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    I hooked up my little test computer, it is an OBDII and does do real time temp readings and not just read codes. Paid 249.99 at Autozone last time my GF had a problem with her car. I watched it warm up and it went as high as 195 (199 for a few seconds) and dropped to 184-190 range (revving and...
  15. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    Yes, I can hold the hoses just fine. They were warm, just not burning hot. Its seems hotter at the heater hoses going into the core, not burning or anything but much warmer than the radiator hose. If the thermostat was stuck open, why would the temp gauge come up in shifts like normal though...
  16. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    I have an actron cp9580 OBD tool, use it for codes and bought one last time I had a coil go out to tell me which one. Not sure if it will do temps or anything. The hoses are more hot than warm, but with temps in the 20's and 30's I have no problem keeping my hand on the hoses. The heater core...
  17. R

    Poor Heat in Both Front & Rear Units

    I have a 2002 Expedition 5.4L 99K mi runs great. Coolant levels are fine, no leaks, never had to add anything to it. Temp gauge comes up like normal within 3-5 min it moves, then goes to 1/4, then when warmed up and stays where it has been for the many years I've owned the vehicle (since new)...

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