The muffler, or resonator in your truck is packed with the Fibreglas. It's coming out. You need a new one. I suppose you can yank out what's loose and hope for the best.
Some years had the skid plates, some did not. Just as some had running boards. My '08 has an engine skid plate, transfer case skid plate and a plate under the fuel tank.
That's more than I pay for my OEM Motorcraft rotors, pads, pins and boots. And I get 55,000 miles out of those in city driving. I swear by them after years of cheaping out with aftermarket junk that warps in a month.
To each his own I suppose.
Anyone doing these brakes, in the northeast at...
I doubt it is electrical. If a circuit is popping I suspect it's because of mechanical drag on the components. I think if you change the regulator, you'll be okay.
Ford's offering for dealer installation was made by Code-Alarm of Long Island, NY. There was a plug and play kit of all parts available from Ford with a part number. I have it in a 2008, and it works wonderfully.
As Nvsteve mentions above, the bulkhead connector is the fitting that runs control wires through the transmission case. It's a common leak point, and requires the pan to be dropped and an "O" ring replaced. Fluid drips out of it onto the pan flange and it looks like the pan is leaking.
A $25...
Does anyone have any thoughts on where I can store a Hi-Lift (farm) jack in a regular-sized Expedition? I tale it with me when driving on the beach, and usually juts throw it in the back with a fabric case.
CV Joint on the front axle bad? How about a wheel bearing? Get all four wheels off the ground and listen with a mechanic's stethoscope while it's running. Noises like these travel all over the place and their origin can be very hard to locate. Spend time diagnosing before replacing...
For those who like meddling with these things, the window regulator on these trucks is a completely self-contained unit with a bolt-on motor. The unit has pulleys and cords that control the window. When they slow down, the regulator is gummed up and the tracks get dirty. Usually the entire...
Sounds like you have some aftermarket warranty from a private provider. You shouldn't have to pay to replace a defective part. On another hand, I would only use a Motorcraft OEM regulator. It seems that Chinese replacement window regulators are often of very poor quality. They are cheap -...
I use Motorcraft parts. It certainly matters more on some things than on others. I'd stick with their transmission fluid, filter and gasket, for sure and probably use their idler pulleys. Can't think of too many other parts you'd be using on 100,000 mile service that would be too critical...
Wouldn't anything making the phasers function erratically set a code?
You say the power loss is "inconsistant"? Probably not a bad idea to do a compression test to see the state of that motor. And maybe check the temperature of the catalytic converters to see if you have some type of clogging.
Replace the window regulator. They are a door-sized unit that consists of pulleys and nylon lines that pull the window up and down. They get gummed up, and if you are patient can be cleaned up to remove the solidified grease and operate well again. The motor's fine.
Check the wiring on your phaser solenoids. Did you damage the contacts when installing the valve covers?
There have been a few reports of the newer (now that they went Chinese) Cloyes chain guides imploding somewhat quickly after installation. You'd probably hear the chain rattling again if...
Check out Lombard Ford on the Internet. They sell Ford factory warranties by mail at a third the price of some dealers. I bought a 4 year, 40,000 mile warranty for my used Explorer which had 97,000 miles on it. And there were three warranties to choose from. I chose the powertrain for...
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