Do you have a scanner that will show VCTADVERR and VCTADVERR2? FORSCAN will, I use it on my phone. This shows the difference between where the ECU wants the cam timing to be and the actual cam timing. It should bounce around zero most of the time. If it does when cold but one side stays away...
It's been a couple of years, but I found a couple of unused connectors under the dash right under the steering wheel. I used a volt meter to find which one was +12V when the key was on and wired that into the red on the new radio harness.
In my case I bought the Metra wiring harness for Ford vehicles. I matched colors with the harness to the radio and it plugged into the vehicle harness and radio didn't work. Most basic radios need a +12v switched signal (AKA accessory power) when the key turns on. The vehicle wiring harness has...
I used a test light under the dash, found a +12 V switched power that wasn't being used. I believe they do make a CANBUS adapter as well but finding a red switched power was not an issue once I figured out the red in the harness wasn't used.
I will say most of these have a red wire that is not switched power. When I installed my aftermarket radio I had to find 12V switched power under the dash.
I recharged my AC in my 2007 last year and it worked well when I was driving but was not cold at idle. Well early this year the compressor locked up. I replaced the compressor, dryer and TXV valve and it is now icy cold even at idle on a 90+ day! So your compressor could just be worn out.
For my 2007 I put it at the top of the license plate. Routing the wiring through the rear hatch and through the inside to the front. With a long vehicle I had to buy extra cable.
That is a resonator. It helps balance the pressure waves in the intake smoothing the flow which makes it quieter and possibly improves power. I have seen debate on if this really impacts power or is just for a quieter ride.
A basic suggestion is check your airflow at idle and also ensure your evaporator is clean. They can get dirty reducing air flow causing it not to work well at idle. They make cleaning products just for that purpose.
A poster on another forum said it looked like Ford Dark Shadow Gray. It didn't look right to me, but then again I had sprayed it on a cardboard as a test. I painted a few square inches of space what was chipping and bingo! It is Dark Shadow Gray.
Now to find a weather window to work in.
Help! I'm ready to repair some minor front end damage, I have headlights, fog lights, a grille and emblem and the Oxford White for that portion of the front. But I'm stumped on what color the lower front bumper cover is. My door sticker only lists the main Oxford White and doesn't list the trim...
Agree that what codes you are getting would be helpful. As long as the codes are for the second O2 sensors it shouldn't cause drivability issues. And if you don't have emissions testing then the only concern is probably getting rid of the check engine light. In that case I'd probably go for the...
To close this one out, the shop that diagnosed the broken catalytic converter was causing the rattle gave me an estimate of $5,000 to replace just the left catalytic converter and $3,000 to use an aftermarket converter! Yikes! So I found a Walker aftermarket converter on Amazon that was marked...
Update: turned out it was a broken catalytic converter. I knew that cat wasn't working, but it started to break up inside. Way louder than I expected for a broken catalytic converter. Better than engine, transmission or even flexplate.
It didn't seem loose, but it's worth a shot putting a clamp on it before taking it in to a shop. Thanks. At this point I'm leaning toward a cracked flexplate.
So I picked up a nasty rattle on my 2007, 165k. No check engine light, my scanner could find nothing wrong, it ran and shifted smoothly on the way home. Checking it out the noise is from under the car, seems to be coming from the bell housing area. It was very loud there, not the oil pan. The...
P0015 wouldn’t be fuel. It is related to the camshaft, either with the VCT or a mechanical issue with the phaser. Since they had that head off last month I would have them recheck it.
That paperwork seems to indicate a leaking valve that may be bent. It recommends a new engine and doesn't indicate it was repaired. The P0015 is very different from the paperwork, a VCT error so that may just be an issue with the connection to the VCT solenoid or camshaft position sensor. Since...
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