Center Channel Speaker Level Amplifier Install

[HILLY]

Looking for some Expedition Audio experts here.

Currently in the process of slowly upgrading the stereo in my Expy (2018 XLT Base Sync 3 with 4.2" screen). Not a rookie at this, but I am a little bit stumped at this issue.

This project started off as I had an extra 3.5" Infinity speaker lying about and decided to make good use of it. I honestly like the center channel and have had it in most cars. For me it brings the stage up to the middle of the dash plus it adds volume to the music (I am hearing impaired by birth, so I do listen to music a bit louder than most). I know most say to bypass/ignore this speaker, but I like it, especially for the extra volume. I knew that the center speaker I replaced would be 8 ohms stock vs. the 4 ohm speaker that I replaced it with. This hasn't been too much of a problem other than when I do start cranking up the volume, the factory amplifier must start to overheat and as a result will start to attenuate the volume until cooled down. Kind of annoying. I looked around for a solution and came across this:

ST2.500D Amplifier – Soundstream Technologies

soundstream.com

Pretty small, simple, and compact. Should play long and loud for my needs. It fits under the center dash panel with ease. Wired up easily and used the speaker level inputs.

Now this is where it gets weird... When I have the speaker connected to the amp, it will not output any sound. The amp is powered on (turn on is with ACC, not speaker sense), no protect/faults, etc. When I disconnect the speaker to bypass the amp and go back to the factory power, the speaker plays. I'll disconnect and go back to the amp and I'll get no output. Messing with connecting and disconnecting leads I'll eventually (what seems at random) start to get amplified output. Not sure if I "shocked" something into working. This will work fine until I turn the car off and after it would seem that everything as gone to sleep. After that I have to go through the motions of disconnecting and reconnecting leads to get it working again.

I'm wondering if the factory system has a way of checking resistance in the line and if it doesn't sense any, if it will deactivate the channel. Has anyone else experienced this when installing a stereo with speaker lever outputs in these trucks? I got stopped in my tracks with trying to do more electrical testing due to weather and other life stuff. Just curious as I plan to build up the rest of the system by going the speaker level route (AudioControl, etc.). I have reason to believe it's not the amp since it plays great once it's going.

 

[Ellison Brown III]

These vehicles have DSP’s, or digital sound processors that take the signals from the radio, and further distribute to each speaker. Something about your connection it apparently does not like. I remember when I attempted to replace the factory sub in my ‘04 Expedition… I got no sound after splicing into the speaker wires… in a location after the DSP. However, decided to try a location before it… worked just fine.

One of the other things recommended, and I have purchased, is a LC2i from Audio Control. I used it in my 2016 Expedition when I replaced my factory sub. Worked right off the bat with no problems. Gives you many options to adjust output to your liking.

 

[HILLY]

So I'm a little slow with the follow-up, but I have been able to fix this issue over the weekend. As basic as I assumed this stereo to be (mine has no DSP), it does have what is called open circuit protection. When I was hooked up to the speaker level inputs on the amp, there was no resistance (measured) that the OEM amplifier could see and would shut down that channel. The times that I was messing with this unplugging and plugging back in I just created enough resistance to kick start it into working and would stay that way until the system was off, went to sleep, and reset itself.

Doing some internet searches on this issue, I came across this Kicker line output converter:

https://www.kicker.com/KISLOC2

When I read the description on the device stating that it had a 60-ohm load to circumvent open-circuit protection, I knew I was on the right track with my theory. I did some further research on this and found that it was pretty respectable for what it is. It's not exactly an AudioControl device, but it is extremely compact which is key to what I need for this and one of the YouTube reviews I came across by SMD gave it high marks.

I redid my install with my setup incorporating this and I can report everything works great now. The amplifier and this both fit comfortably behind the dash paneling with no issues to report so far. I wired this into the 12v outlet on the dash using a y-harness (Red Wolf 12V Harness Adapter) that made this clean and simple. The 12V circuit is rated at 20A. I'm only using one channel on this amplifier which I would say is an optimistic 75W. So the math based on this is that if it is going full tilt at a low 12.0V, the draw would be 6.25A. At a running 14.4V, this drops down to 5.21A. Well within limits of the circuit. Anything else plugged into the normal socket is usually just a USB charger, so I'm far from concerned from any excess draw.

I'm enjoying the better quality speaker in the center channel that can now bump without issues. So for anyone looking to upgrade their center channel (I know most won't/don't care to), I highly recommend this setup to keep it simple and easy to install.

 

[HushCarAudio]

I build custom plug and play harnesses for any gear you want to install in your vehicle. Let me know if you'd like help with getting things working correctly. For anyone that has an factory amplified system you'll need to use a bypass unit to get any appreciable audio out of the system. You'll also need to have load resistors installed on said harness to defeat the chimes/alerts from sounding weird and from the center console area.

 

[HushCarAudio]

repeated message, deleted.