Engine noise

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Lenny

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Folks...I got a problem. I have a 2004 Expedition XLT 5.4L Triton. Absolutely no issues at all until today. Got in and started it up. Normally I hear a little rattle from the timing chain for just a second or two but now it sounds like a diesel engine. No codes, no misfire, showing good oil pressure. But it has what sounds like a cross between a rattle and a knock. Anyone experience this enough to point me in the right direction? I used a stethoscope and the sound is more prominent around the timing cover area.
 
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Lenny

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220k...still runs like a top. I've got some time off coming. I'll tear it down and look it over. Hopefully that's all it is.
 

Vincent Vega

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On the 5.4s, noises like that are usually from timing or roller followers. This isn't a 3-valve 5.4, so you won't have to deal with cam phasers. Pretty rare for rod knock on these, usually they just burn lots of oil and lose power as they get old.
 
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Lenny

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No oil loss and really runs like a dream. This happened out of the blue. But after thinking about it...it was starting to have a small rattle for a second or two on startup. Kinda leaning towards the timing. I'll tear in to it starting Friday.
 
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Lenny

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On the 5.4s, noises like that are usually from timing or roller followers. This isn't a 3-valve 5.4, so you won't have to deal with cam phasers. Pretty rare for rod knock on these, usually they just burn lots of oil and lose power as they get old.
Do I have to remove the power Steering Pump or would just removing the pulley allow me to get the cover off?
 

Hamfisted

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Do I have to remove the power Steering Pump or would just removing the pulley allow me to get the cover off?

Usually have to remove the pulley, then the pump to have easier access to those bolts on that side. I've done it both ways, and find that removing the P/S pulley and pump is easier. You can get a P/S pulley pulling kit at Harbor Freight if you have one nearby. Or Amazon. If you're gonna remove the oil pump to upgrade it you'll need a flex-head wrench for the oil pickup tube bolts too. Or you can drop the oil pan. If you find pieces of the chain guides have broke off you need to drop the oil pan to clean it out anyway, and make sure the oil intake screen is clear.




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Vincent Vega

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@Lenny I pulled the PS pump without removing the pulley and I will never make that mistake again. Took me about 2 hours to remove (and then install) those bolts because the pulley was in the way. Another tip: remove the two heater hoses to enable the RH valve cover to come out easier (replace them while you are at it). Those two things would have saved me several hours when I redid my timing. Good times.
 

Hamfisted

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Yeah, I forgot to mention the heater hoses ! Thanks Vincent ! There's a release tool that's about $20, that makes removal pretty easy. (Use the 5/8" end...). Push the tool end over the plastic release clip, push the quick connect toward the firewall to get the QC to release, then pull the hose away from the firewall and off the heater core pipe. Inspect the QC O-rings and replace if necessary before reconnecting. Remove the battery and the PCM to give yourself more room to work.

Ford Heater Hose QC Release Tool on Amazon


Heater Hose Removal Tool.jpg

Ford Heater Hose QC.jpg


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