Cool, Jay. I fixed mine this morning. Took less than 2 hours (had breakfast in that timeframe, too, and watched ESPN's "top 10" with my boys).
Here is the fix.
Intermittent Odometer Repair Steps + Pics
Greg Upton's steps are below. My comments are in red:
1) Disconnect the negative battery connection.
2) Remove the headlamp switch. I covered the head of a thin flat head screwdriver with electrical tape and pried the bottom out then removed and disconnected the electrical connections.
(This is very easy. I have plastic pry tools (flat blade/end) and it pops right out.)
3) Remove the steering column opening cover. This is the plastic cover right over the steering column, it is held in by 4 clips. I grabbed under the bottom with my finger nails and it pulled out pretty easily.
4) Remove the instrument panel finish panel. This is the plastic panel around the instrument cluster.
(It houses the headlamp switch - you'll have to remove the electrical connections here for the defroster etc. if you have that option. The trim gets very skinny to the right of the speedo housing. Put the gearshift in 1 to work the piece away from the dash). It has several bolts and clips holding it in. Don't forget the bolt that is behind where the headlamp switch was.
(you do not need to remove any more trim - not the dash top or the large plastic underneath that holds the E-brake and hood latch or the radio surround. You are ready to pull the speedo cluster)
5) Remove the instrument panel. (Hint: Place a towel or other soft cloth over the steering column before you try and pull it out. I put a few superficial scratches on my column.) After removing the screws, if you have an automatic transmision you need to disconnect the transmission range indicator from the bottom of it. There are two plastic tabs holding it in place. Its a little tricky getting them both loose at the same time.
(this was easy)Then disconnect the two electrical connectors from the back
(this was a difficult - you need to press a tab on the bottom or top -- forgot - of each to remove. I actually had to get two hands up there and a small screwdriver to press the tab) and remove it. Below is a picture of the back of the instrument cluster after removal.
--- Please see the link I included above to see the pix of the fix. Very easy, guys. I soldered ever one of the 7 or so pins. I haven't driven the truck yet but the odometer is working. 3 or so of the pins had cold/cracked solder joints. I think you remove around 15-20 screws. It helps to have a long-handled "flat ended" magnetic tool to insert the screws into tight places AND a flexible 1/4" extension to put on your socket driver.
Hope this helps someone!
