How To: Ford Performance Air-Oil Separator

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HILLY

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Ford Performance has an Air/Oil Separator kit that they offer for the F-150 EcoBoost. I had been eyeing up this kit since I had my previous truck and since FP just came out with a 25% off holiday discount, I decided to take advantage of it. I went with this kit due to it's simplicity and it looks OEM coming from Ford. Without getting into the +/-'s of an AOS, I'll have to follow up if it's worth it or not. I will say that when I was disconnecting the original line there was a decent amount of oil on the fittings. So something is going on for sure and should catch some oil.

Kit #: M-6766-35T - https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6766-35T

The kit's directions are pretty good as it's pretty straight forward (not in the kit, but downloaded Here). Only step that someone might need clarification on is the valve cover bolt removal. Once this bolt is loosened it needs to be pried out since it sits in a pressed spacer sleeve.

The kit:
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Vavle cover bolt removed and replace. Lower bracket bolt removed and reused.
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Bracket in place:
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The directions don't mention to trim the engine cover. With the new lines routing to the catch can, the cover as-is cannot bolt down snugly up front. I came across this oversight when browsing the F-150/Raptor boards on their installs. Not the prettiest thing if you're looking to keep the cover. The exposed foam is a little brittle and "crumbly". I'll have to see if I can remedy this by singeing this or something along those lines.
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Only thing I had a slight issue with was the proximity of the A/C line to the can. At first it was touching just a little but it took a little tweaking to get it moved away so as not to rub against it. I will keep an eye on this as well.
 

Boosted

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That looks like a complete pain in the ass to drain compared to the JTL model. The JTL canister just unthreads and you pour it out.

The Ford Performance site says:
Canister is easy to drain by removing PCV lines off canister, removing canister and draining oil.

I'd stick with the JTL model.
 
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HILLY

HILLY

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TBH, I didn't spend a whole lot of time and effort scoping out alternatives. I came across a K&N version which is similar looking, but the reviews were dinging it for bad execution.

I won't argue the price difference. I got the FP for not a whole lot more than the JTL model, but it's still more. Also, because of the mount setup I will admit the JTL is easier to service.

That said, I do like that the FP AOS is hidden and out of site and mind. I'll be interested to see what accumulates over the course of my oil change intervals (5k's). The lines are quick disconnect and it lifts right off of the mount. If it's truly a PITA to empty out every oil change then I might switch out.
 

NevadaGeo

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I don't get much sludge in my can. After 10k miles, there was only about 2-3 oz of sludge. But the write-up you provided is what this forum is about. Don't be discouraged! The oil separator has many discussion posts on this forum that could have help in your original decision.
 
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HILLY

HILLY

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Just wanted to post a follow-up on how this was doing.

I did my spark plugs the other day and while I was hovering over the engine I decided to check out the can. Took about 10 seconds to undo the quick fittings and take out, so easy enough. After opening up the lid I found that there was a good amount of oil in it. More than I expected from some other things I’ve seen on EcoBoost engines (Bronco, F-150 write-ups, etc.). Guesstimating maybe about 2 or so ounces? I even spilled some on the ground out of the inlet tube being careless carrying it over to the work bench as I didn’t really expect anything to be there at all and didn't feel any sloshing. This was after 2700 miles on the nose.

Never had one of these before, but I'm definitely a believer now.

IMG_1508.jpeg
 

bb37

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The thing that has bothered me about these catch cans in the past is the flimsy way they are mounted. I did component fatigue testing for a transmission manufacturer in a previous life, so I think I understand how cyclic loads can cause metal to fatigue. I see some of these cans on brackets mounted to an engine, a major source of vibration at varying frequencies, with just one bolt and I shake my head. I like that this FP can actually uses two bolts to attach the bracket.

OTOH, it appears to be a pain to empty the darn thing compared to the other cans on the market. You mentioned "out of sight and mind" in a previous post. To me, that's a problem for something that will need regular service.

Still, I'm glad that Ford has addressed the issue with a "factory approved" part. Thanks for bringing it to our attention.
 
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HILLY

HILLY

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The thing that has bothered me about these catch cans in the past is the flimsy way they are mounted. I did component fatigue testing for a transmission manufacturer in a previous life, so I think I understand how cyclic loads can cause metal to fatigue. I see some of these cans on brackets mounted to an engine, a major source of vibration at varying frequencies, with just one bolt and I shake my head. I like that this FP can actually uses two bolts to attach the bracket.
Good to know and feedback. The bracketry is pretty tight on there and doesn't seem like anything has come loose so far.
OTOH, it appears to be a pain to empty the darn thing compared to the other cans on the market. You mentioned "out of sight and mind" in a previous post. To me, that's a problem for something that will need regular service.
Without the engine cover on, it's very easy to access. Like I said, it removes as fast as you can twist the blue clamps and lift off the bracket. The only extra time and inconvenience compared to other setups is the need to grab a hex bit to remove the lid bolts vs just unscrewing the lid. Me personally, I do like how it looks like it's part of the engine components and not mounted to the firewall or battery carrier. Each their own.
Still, I'm glad that Ford has addressed the issue with a "factory approved" part. Thanks for bringing it to our attention.
:)
 

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The jlt mounts to the battery box. Easy to service. I get a good amount out every 3000 miles or so. I could space it to double that, but it’s so easy it’s not worth the worry of it getting full. I’ve never measured the amount I get, but should. It’s a lot more than I think most would expect.
 
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