Rear end work ahead - need some parts help

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

vurt777

Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2024
Posts
14
Reaction score
4
Location
Dallas
Greetings, new guy here. I have a 2015 el platinum RWD - CCD shocks. 113000 miles (purchased 18 months ago with 95K). I don't have any service history. I feel good about it being a family hauler and towing a trailer with kids spring and summer - no longer a daily driver M-F. Big picture project is to get the front and rear suspension tip top for upcoming trips and trailer purchase. I'm starting with rear, ordering parts today. I have a few quick questions about parts.

1) when replacing the control arms, is it best to replace the bolts/washers/nuts/lock while in there or can they be reliably reused?

2) When it comes to control arms, since I don't know the service history, any reason I should replace just the bushings and ball joints and not the whole arm. If I'm sticking with motorcraft sourced from RA then it saves me about $150 a side, but adds work in my driveway. (as they say, a million here, a million there, pretty soon you're talking about real money). I'm inclined to stick with the whole arm. The entire mevotech arm with hardware is about same price as a motorcraft ball joint, bushing, and nuts and bolts, for instance. Which leads me to #3.

3) any experience with aftermarket parts? My gut tells me to go motorcraft all the way around, but sourcing parts is trickier and if I need the hardware too - see#1 - then it's more expensive. I've read mevotech has been a reliable alternative for these parts and the price difference can't be ignored. Wondering if anyone has experience here they could share with aftermarket arms, bushings, ball joints, etc. - keeping in mind I'll be hauling a 7000lb trailer come summer time.

Other thoughts as I'm ordering parts: I plan to do the strut mounts and insulator springs while I'm in there but I'm leaving the shocks alone until the arms are tight and I can assess what this CCD is like. I like the hellwig sway bar upgrade, the ass end really moves, I've been a passenger in the third row and don't like it one bit - the kids don't mind it - but I'm going to wait until the rest is done before I add any upgrades.

What am I missing??

Thanks y'all in advance.
 

Limoguy25

Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2025
Posts
8
Reaction score
2
Location
Washington State
On something like suspension, when you are towing with your family onboard, I would stick with OEM. Check online as some dealerships sell parts online at a discount. Figure in applicable freight.
 

Expensedition

Full Access Members
Joined
Oct 29, 2019
Posts
144
Reaction score
62
Location
Newport, RI
Hi Vurt777,

Like you heard in the reply from Lemoguy, Get genuine ford parts for the struts and control arms. There are other brands out there such as Mevotech which in my opinion are better than Ford, and then you have Moog that makes most of the parts for OEM's, then Dorman, all being made in the USA except Mevotech which is Canadian.

I rebuilt the entire front end of my 2014 Ford Expedition which I will post soon. I started to rework my rear suspension but decided to trade the vehicle in before completing that evolution. I have parts including the two knuckles which I sand blasted and painted along with brand new SKF bearings. I plan to sell these when I get a chance to market them. I also have a brand new differential suspension arm that I blasted and painted with POR15 top coat, since the original was severely rusted. All of that will be up for sale soon.

Get good parts, there are some aftermarket that are better than OEM but look for that, do some research. The front end of my 2014 Expedition Limited was a dream after I cleaned it up and I still miss that Girl, she was good to me.

V/r

SM
 
OP
OP
vurt777

vurt777

Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2024
Posts
14
Reaction score
4
Location
Dallas
Thanks guys. Apologies for the silence. So after I posted above, changing front end links, one of my front shocks was leaking. So come Wednesday, I dropped at my shop and pulled the trigger, new CCD suspension on all four corners. They did me fair on labor - 8 hours even - including end links and alignment. But 3200 in parts... Picked up tonight and drove her 20 miles or so ahead of this storm. Like new, sits up an inch higher, may settle down, aligned tighter than ever. Shop said the original shocks were on it. 113000 miles. I'm impressed. I'll sort out the arms and joints after the storm.

Thanks for y'all's feedback on oem parts. That was my gut and now confirmed.
 

abe2571

New Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2025
Posts
2
Reaction score
1
Location
United States
I have a 2014 XLT with the standard suspension and about 215000 miles. I just finished replacing most of the front and rear suspension components myself and with a little help from a friend. I didn't replace the coil springs and a few bushings in the rear.

I went with Moog parts all around (a mix of made in USA and overseas parts) to help keep down costs. I replaced the struts with KYB Gas Adjust models (stiffer then stock). The ride and handling is like a more modern sporty SUV, comparing it to worn out original parts. It doesn't shake, shimmy, woddle, skip, and all the other things it did before going over bumps and such. I also dont get the porposing i used to get towing my bay boat. I am very happy with it.

As far as the rear lower control arms I replaced the ball joint in mine and had the intent to replace the bushing. I however could not find the bushing seperate from the control arm online. I almost ordered two lower control arms but didn't since I already had the ball joints. If you are able to find the bushing and ball joint and can replace them yourself it might be worth it. If not I would order the whole arm. Motorcrafts can be found online for about $210 each give or take. Never used Mevotech so can't speak to them. The Moogs were around $400 each for some reason. Hope this helps.
 

Expensedition

Full Access Members
Joined
Oct 29, 2019
Posts
144
Reaction score
62
Location
Newport, RI
Related to this post:


My job started with cleaning up rust after replacing the brake calipers.

There is some good stuff in there relating to front end including images. Overall with all new top of the line parts I replaced the front end including springs and shocks for less than $3200. However, I did the work myself.

V/r

SM
 
OP
OP
vurt777

vurt777

Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2024
Posts
14
Reaction score
4
Location
Dallas
Related to this post:


My job started with cleaning up rust after replacing the brake calipers.

There is some good stuff in there relating to front end including images. Overall with all new top of the line parts I replaced the front end including springs and shocks for less than $3200. However, I did the work myself.

V/r

SM
Thanks. After 2800 miles in 9 days in march with the family it’s time to start looking at bushings and arms. Engine has held up well. Bought with 95k. At 120 now after two years in July. Rear end sits a full inch lower than front. Have some issues to address. Lots of sway. No metal sounds but a lot of clattering around in sport mode. Comfort helps but the sway is bananas. Thanks for the references all.
 
OP
OP
vurt777

vurt777

Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2024
Posts
14
Reaction score
4
Location
Dallas
Got the metal sounds today - seized wheel bearing. I'm sure that's just the start. I posted separately from this, not sure if it should have been combined

 
Top