Strange drivers side window issue

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KOTU

Member
Joined
May 28, 2014
Posts
23
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Location
Los Angeles, CA
Okay, well finally, here is a solution. The issue with the driver's side window stopping has nothing to do with the fuse. The motor stops because the window actuator motor has overheated. This is caused by the motor straining to pull the cable which works to lift and or lower the window glass. The reason the motor works after the controlling fuse is removed and then reinserted is that the act of manipulating the fuse allows time for the window regulator motor to cool down.
Today, I unassembled the driver's side door. My intent was to put grease on all the moving parts, the guide tracks, and the cable that the motor pushes and pulls. The regulator cable appears to be a 1/8" stainless steel aircraft type. The cable moves within a sheathed plastic tube. Over time the cable oxidized. I removed the motor assembly (3 machine screws with T30 panheads) and greased as much of the cable as I could.
After I put it all back together, I put the window up and down several times. The window works better as I cycle the window in the coming days I feel the cable will move better within the plastic tube. If the grease does not permeate the cable far enough into the plastic tube, I'll do the operation again though at that time I'll try squirting W-D 40 into the plastic tube.
 

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KOTU

Member
Joined
May 28, 2014
Posts
23
Reaction score
22
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Okay, well finally, here is a solution. The issue with the driver's side window stopping has nothing to do with the fuse. The motor stops because the window actuator motor has overheated. This is caused by the motor straining to pull the cable which works to lift and or lower the window glass. The reason the motor works after the controlling fuse is removed and then reinserted is that the act of manipulating the fuse allows time for the window regulator motor to cool down.
Today, I unassembled the driver's side door. My intent was to put grease on all the moving parts, the guide tracks, and the cable that the motor pushes and pulls. The regulator cable appears to be a 1/8" stainless steel aircraft type. The cable moves within a sheathed plastic tube. Over time the cable oxidized. I removed the motor assembly (3 machine screws with T30 panheads) and greased as much of the cable as I could.
After I put it all back together, I put the window up and down several times. The window works better as I cycle the window in the coming days I feel the cable will move better within the plastic tube. If the grease does not permeate the cable far enough into the plastic tube, I'll do the operation again though at that time I'll try squirting W-D 40 into the plastic tube.20230717_151124.jpg20230717_151114.jpg20230717_151114.jpg20230717_150710.jpg20230717_150651.jpg
 

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