Third Row Seat Replacement

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fuzzmanmatt

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I finally got fed up with hauling around a 55 gallon tote of crap for search and rescue stuff that I carry, so I pulled out the third row of seats and built a little box to shove everything into. 2007 Eddie Bauer Standard wheelbase. The box ended up being about 4'x4', give or take an inch each way.

Basic Frame:
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Final Boxed Frame - The wood in the middle is about where the back end drops off into the floor pan for the front of the truck.
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It's attached to the body using the mounts where the spare tire holder trim was.
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And with the 3/4" plywood on the top, it doesn't look too bad!
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I have the plywood cut at 18" from the front, I have to get a piano hinge to attach it to the frame, and I'll put a lip in where the cross support is to latch into everything and keep it closed, and another hinge will be mounted there for the rest of the lid. I'll update once I get that all done. If I get ambitious, I might put in lift supports for the lids, but that's far down the line. I'm also trying to decide if I want to do a rubber flooring on the top, or a painted/roll on bedliner.
 
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crector080862

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Your pictures didn't come through

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Yupster Dog

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Looks great!
I am also contemplating doing this to my 02 but, I want to try to make a drawer somehow so I don’t have to remove everything on top to get at emergency gear.
My other idea, I have an extra 3rd row seat and I was thinking of making a box out of that so it is removable and I could still put my 3 rd row seat back in if needed.
 
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fuzzmanmatt

fuzzmanmatt

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I was actually debating doing drawers, but with the extra space that's hidden away under all the bits and pieces for the seats I have more than enough room for what I need to store. If I was going to do drawers, I would have used 1x10 instead of the 1x6, it would have given me plenty of room to put the smaller totes and pieces in once I got the drawers and base built.
 

Trainmaster

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That looks great! Wish they came with some storage space like that.

The old SSV's sold by the Pennsylvania Troopers have similar very-high-priced metal boxes with drawers. Most are probably thrown away by the buyers.

Just have to mention not to forget there's a plastic fuel tank under that floor when you drill in those 4" long Sheetrok screws...
 

Plati

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Of course I like that!! Did you consider just not having the forward 18" or was the goal to have a full flat to seats? Is it same height as when second row seats fold down so you can do full flat to front seats if need be? I like no hinges for multiple top covers, just finger holes to pick up and move, but have to have plan build for that.

Here's an idea (just in case you can use it in some way). Don't need the entire top to be continuous & removable. Can screw some strips across in key areas and make a removable mid section. That way you can still get to inside but less top to F with. It would substantially strengthen the case also. You would have some sag in the plywood top if kneeling on it AND warpage of wood might result in some (but you did use 3/4"). I know from experience! Just throwing an option out there.
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fuzzmanmatt

fuzzmanmatt

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Of course I like that!! Did you consider just not having the forward 18" or was the goal to have a full flat to seats? Is it same height as when second row seats fold down so you can do full flat to front seats if need be? I like no hinges for multiple top covers, just finger holes to pick up and move, but have to have plan build for that.
I was going to build just the front box, make it even with the factory floor, but looking through other posts I realized just how much space was wasted by the factory trim. It's about the same height with the second row in cargo mode, not close enough to sleep on, but that's another project if I keep this beast long enough.

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Adieu

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Pass.

I like the full fold flat too much. Toss an air bed in the back, travel "in style"

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fuzzmanmatt

fuzzmanmatt

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The rear piano hinge works nicely, right now I've got a Buyer's 58903 latch picked out to replace the duct tape I'm using as a handle. I think I'm going to use some 1x4 and make a lip that the latch can latch onto, and use it to mount the hinge for the far back lid. So far I like it more than the plastic bin I had everything in. 32d23e26dc3c133fbb587f5dc63d10f5.jpg

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fuzzmanmatt

fuzzmanmatt

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No way would I do that to my vehicle
The great thing is that I did it to mine so you don't have to! You probably wouldn't take yours off road through the mud and the sand either, but I do. Nothing wrong with a little more utility out of a SUV.

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fuzzmanmatt

fuzzmanmatt

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Finally got around to working on it again, got my locking hinges to keep the lids open installed. Aside from latches and a covering material, I'm pretty darn happy with this!

The gap is just wide enough to allow the lid to open 0c6b1e3a2462c1727ac37254edf6303f.jpg

And you can see the piano hinge for the most rearward compartment.
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These are the hinges from Knape and Vogt that I got, they work fantastic!
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Here's the forward compartment open
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And the rearward:
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fuzzmanmatt

fuzzmanmatt

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I've been looking for some remnant rubber flooring. Water resistant, high friction, and I think it'll cover the gap well, too.

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Yupster Dog

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Looks good Fuzz,
before you cover it protect that wood. Then you don't have to worry about throwing wet gear on/in it.
Put some polyurethane on it.
 

Plati

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I bought tough rubber mat at Home Depot to floor in mine (over existing carpet). They sell quite a few sizes and types fairly cheap. Real easy to cut to shape with a utility knife. Can always screw it down too to keep it where you wannit.
 

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